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Kalergie83

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  1. Cool. Thanks. In the meantime, is there some sort of tutorial for basic tuning. So when I come back with questions we don't start from 0.
  2. Thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it. I try to provide as much detail as I can. It's the japanese Gen3 3SGTE engine. The coils are aftermarket, but my dealer just quoted a generic kit. We tried to see if there's a label on them but cannot see any, unfortunately. We got a schematic wiring instructions for the coils. As per the wiring instructions, each coil has 4 pins. One pin for signal going to the respective ECU ignition pins, one pin is 12V, 2 pins for ground. We wired the signal pins to the ECU as per LinkG4+ manual: ignition 1 signal to pin 20, ignition 2 signal to pin 7, ignition 3 signal to pin 8, ignition 4 signal to pin 17. Some updates since your last input: -Set the ignition to direct spark. -Performed an ignition coils test and we could hear them. -Attempted a start and had a few loud misfires and the engine did not start. -Reversed trigger offset by -360degrees (to -345). Started engine again and it started immediately, no misfires. We didn't want to go any further from here and would appreciate your help on what to do now. Can provide updated tune and log files of successful start on Monday. Thanks a lot for your help already! EDIT: My mechanic is sick at the moment. Can't do a log unfortunately.
  3. Hi guys, Thanks for your replies. Apologies for being unclear. We took-over a half built project car. So things are quite confusing for us too. The previous builder was a bit sparse with infos but told us the injectors were 850cc. We measured the injectors impedance again and they are in fact only 12.8Ohm. We went ahead and bypassed the OEM resistor pack (as explained by koracing). We ran the injector test function and all injectors clicked. Right after the injector test, we recorded a data log of a start attempt and surprisingly, the engine actually started! However, it runs extremely badly; it appears that at least one cylinder isn't firing. Please see data log and base map attached. Thanks for your help. Edit: I just scrolled through the PCLink software and noticed that ignition Mode was set to "Distributor". Shouldn't this be set to "Direct Spark" since each cylinder has its own ignition coil? Edit2: In the interest of full transparency, let me list all the mods I can think of just to make sure. It was originally supposed to be done by a tuner/link dealer but he let me down. Now have to finish it myself with another mechanic. This list is from my dealer's invoice (translated from German): -Turbocharger GTX3076 -Water cooled intercooler -Adjustable camshaft sprockets -Single ignition set with bridge -Link Map sensor -Link Lambda -Link EGT+controller -Knock sensor -Walbro fuel pump 340L/hr -850cc injectors -Forged internals First start.llg Tune 1.pclr
  4. Hello, I own a Toyota Mr2 Turbo. Currently working with my mechanic on a project for which we have the Plug in G4+ for Mr2/Celica ST205. My mechanic is not experienced with ECUs. We have been dealing with our link dealer up to now but he is fully booked so I am hoping to get some help here. The link dealer so far has done the set up on our ECU through remote access on our laptop. As far as we can see, he worked until step 6.6. Told us to start the engine. The ignition is running but the engine won't start. We can think of 3 potential reasons: 1)Trigger calibration as mentioned in chapter 6.7 has not been done. 2) Incorrect Trigger Offset as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pllSwOmnoxE If this is the problem, could you tell us how to figure this out and hit the correct number in the software? Literally by trial and error? 3)The injector impedance. The injectors installed have 40 Ohm. We installed the original Toyota resistors (13.8Ohm) as well as advised by the dealer but we are not sure they are the correct ones. Could you advise what the impedance needs to be and we double check? Can Link help me finalize this please? If you have any other possible sources we could check? Thanks
  5. Hi Adam, Yes, it's 1.18V. Odd phenomenon my mechanics just observed. So the MAP sensor signal is on PIN 34 which is in the 16 PIN socket. When my mechanic pulls out the 26 PIN socket from the ECU but keeps the 16 PIN socket in, the MAP sensor is suddenly outputting 1.18V. When he sticks the 26 PIN socket back into the ECU, the MAP sensor is outputting 0V/0Ohm. So it appears that the 26 PIN socket interferres somehow with the 16 PIN socket or at least with PIN 34. Is there anything from your side that rings a bell? Something about the 26 PIN socket that we may have done wrong that could cause the PIN34 to go short circuit? Thanks.
  6. Hi Adam, Thanks. So we sent the MAP in to our LINK dealer, it was actually ok. So there is definately something wrong on our end. Just what could it be? When pulling out the Signal cable out of the ECU, then signal out has 1.7V. When the MAP is connected correctly, then Signal out shows 0V and 0OHM. We dont think is correct, is it? My mechanic says this shows there is some sort of short circuit. Can you see any indication that there is something wrong from a wiring perspective?
  7. So my mechanic tested a generic Toyota MAP sensor and it shows that it works. Our Link dealer is insinuating that my mechanic initially installed the MAP sensor wrong (confusing + and ground). Is that even possible? Does it destroy the sensor if by some crazy accident, the mechanic confuses + and ground?
  8. Thanks Adam, I will tell him to try both AN V3 and 4 (if he has not yet). I do know he used AN V4. But we should get a reading on the signal with a multimeter regardless which Pin it goes into, right? At this moment, 5V and ground is confirmed. Preassure hose used to pressurize 0.5 bar above atmosphere, no change on the multimeter reading. stuck at 0.02V. The other MAP sensor from AEM was very old and taken from a previous built. It made more "sense" that the AEM was faulty. Which is why we immediately assumed it was broken. But now the Link MAP sensor has the same problem.
  9. Thanks Adam. Yes, 5V and good ground confirmed. We will test with a MAP sensor that we definately know works. If that one works, it's the new MAP sensor that was faulty. But let's say it doesn't work. What other reason could there be? We are a bit out of ideas. Thanks
  10. Kalergie83

    Bad Map Sensor?

    Hi. I have the plug in G4+ for Toyota MR2. My mechanic has a problem with the MAP sensor. I initially had an AEM, the Voltmeter and Link software showed 0.02V. My Link dealer advised that MAP sensor is most likely faulty and we ordered a brand new Link MAP Sensor. Unfortunately, same problem. The mechanic even tested manually using 0.5bar pressure, which should have made the volt go up but nothing was moving. We are wondering what could be the reason since we are out of ideas. Could the new MAP sensor be bad as well? It would be the 2nd in a row? All cables were tested for correct wiring and had 0 OHM impedance. According to the provided manual, the MAP sensor signal is on PIN34. I'd appreciate your advise.
  11. Hi Adam, Thanks! Don't get me started about my dealer. When this is all done and dusted, I would love to have a word with LINK and share the experience I had with my local dealer as their pre and after-sales support was/is sub-par to say the least. Maybe interesting for LINK management to know. Bottom line, I had to pull my project car out of the dealer/mechanic shop and hand it over to a new guy who now has the ungreatful job of picking up the pieces. You can probably emphasize how difficult it is for a mechanic to take over a half finished project car. On top of that, he has never worked with a LINK ECU before. And he doesn't speak any English, so I am the one translating his requests. I am very glad I get good support here at least. Allow me to ask a few more questions please: 1) Can I buy parts directly from your website or do I have to go through a dealership in my country? 2) My mechanic advised to add an exhaust temp sensor. Can you suggest the parts required from Link and advise on how to wire it to the ECU? 3) My mechanic needs a wiring plan on how to wire the Boost Control Solenoid into the ECU On top of this, what I will do, I will have my mechanic phone a few local LINK dealers in my country as well. But after the bad experience I am a bit cautious with so called "professionals" and rather rely on my own research as well. I understand how difficult it is to explain things through a forum. But in the meantime, thank you very much for your help!
  12. Thanks for this. This is very helpful. We received the ECU without the loom for the expansion ports. I am not sure if this was supposed to be included in the package or not. Is it possible to buy this again? EDIT: assuming it is this one? https://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2 Thank you!
  13. Hi Adam, Thanks very much. That makes sense. If you dont mind, I have another follow up question. My mechanic wants to install a combined oil pressure/temp sensor. Which pin(s) should be used to wire those into the ECU? Thank you! I really appreciate your help.
  14. Hello, I have a question for my LinkG4+ ECU for Toyota MR2 V2-3 & Celica (ST205). I am not a pro and not english native speaker, sorry if I am a bit clumsy in my wording. I am asking for my mechanic who has never worked with Link ECU who sent me this question: For pins 9, 10, 22 and 23 have cables coming from the original wiring harness. According to the Link ECU manual, pin 9 is supposed to be empty. Should this wire be unplugged or kept as is? Pins 10 is Trig 1, Pin 22 is Trig 2 and 23 is ground. Should cables coming into pin 10, 22, 23 be kept as is? Thanks
  15. Thank you! Could you point me at the location of the manual for this ECU? I am mostly interested in the PINs. Can I still run it with the same software as the LinkG4+? Cheers.
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