xxcryptorchidxx

Hi, I've tried to read out help section in the ECU but seems that I'm missing something. I have Continental sensor installed and it only shows in ERROR inside ECU. Attached is the tune file. Sensor is connected to XS Expansion Loom DI8. DI8 has been assigned to the Ethanol Sensor and internal pullup resistor is set to ON like the guide suggests. What am I missing? +14v is taken from original wire harness of the car, measured with multimeter that it has +14v when car has power on and running. Once I turned ON the pullup resistor, Ethanol sensor flashed green for a moment and said active. After that is turned back to OFF. Car is Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III if that is relevant. I'd be thankful for any tips. evoIII.pclr

After more than a year of just driving around with the car, the original cause for the high values finally popped up. So, in Evo III you only have CAS to measure engine. Nothing on the crankshaft. Timing seemed to be fine all the time and all the marks were correct. Maybe a month ago the car lost all HP and had no power at all. I tried everything to find the reason. Timing was checked multiple times and nothing there, bought a ton of new parts and changed them, tried logging all the sensors etc. ECU thought there was nothing wrong with the car, everything seemed normal. Finally I rolled the CAS a bit to give some more advance. That actually did help so I thought it is a faulty CAS. But no. There is a little gear in the crankshaft end for the timing belt that is well hidden behind plastic and main pulley. There was a piece missing in that gear, and crankshaft key was in a totally wrong position. So after all, it surely was a mechanical error and complete destruction of the engine has been very close. I have no ideas how it has last until this day. Now all the parts have been changed and tomorrow it's dyno time again.

So we will continue with the studies. Engine is extremely well behaving, it has never leaked any oil or lost it, when you change the oil you could just put it back in the can where it came and the amount would be exactly the same as when you bought the can from store. Same thing with every other liquid. Power steering pump is the only exception it is sweating oil just a bit from the top. But even this, you have to drive for weeks before you notice a wet spot in there. Weird noises, not that I have noticed. It purrs like a cat and it runs with a very steady sound. Of course it does differ a bit from the original one since I have no balance shafts in the engine. They were removed when the engine was remade. This helps with the oil pressure which is very good compared to other evos I've ran into. When it comes to evos, they tend to have quite a poor pressure. We have to check the zero point this weekend and also the timing belt. Dyno guy thought that it sounds like it could be wrong by one teeth. Thank you very much for the ideas and help cj, you are amazing! If you come up with anything else, please let me know. I will study a bit more this weekend and report back.

Thank you very much for your informative answer again cj! 1)TPS has been calibrated for about a hundred times, It stays in 0,0% for some time and then it just pops back to 1,2% - 1,5%. I'm currently waiting for a new sensor, since it seems that this one is not working correctly. With this drive on a public road I did not floor the car since it does really move and I don't want to get a speeding ticket . 2)This is exactly what we wondered in the dyno, how is that possible? We also took a look in another evos maps and the values were way lower than mine. You could've still rolled those ignition values up and more kW just kept coming, and the engine ran without knocking. 3)We had a completely separate knock detection in the dyno and because of that I think it was disabled from ECU, but I think that I'll set it back up again. 4) I have a completely separate cooling system that I need to turn on by hand which I do before entering a track or while driving in a city (since over the years some idiot has destroyed the original wiring regarding cooling). It is a problem with evos that they get crazy hot while standing still or idling. In the dyno the cooling was on and we also had a couple of separate fans blowing cold air to the engine bay and temperature was not the problem. Crank Pulley is 2 part, and I'm aware of this issue so I replaced it a couple months ago before the old one gives any problems. New one has been driven about 2000 km. The former owner of the car also had the whole engine redone about 100k kilometers ago. So now we are quite clueless what to do. Should I just drive on happily to the sunset with my high ignition values since the car seems to be working fine?

Hello again, The logfile was too big to paste in here, so you can download it from Drive: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TJSfqdNN5LL8gKQ2aoYl9gBdwAzSy-7j I had no idea how long file you needed, so I recorded about an hour ride. At first there is just driving in a roadway and at the end in a city. StevieTurbo, as I said in the start of the thread, timing was checked. First thing we did when I entered the dyno was to check the timing with a timing lamp. It was fine. Should've we checked something else?

Hi, Unfortunately I have no log right now, but I will definitely take one today while driving. Timing angle was checked and it showed 2° off which shouldn't affect anything. Thank you very much for this quess and a good explanation cj! And Stevieturbo, he meant that the values are very high, and we couldn't figure out why does he have to put on so high values. We surely did calibration for TPS, Wideband etc. But these timing values, we just didn't find the correct trims. We surely tried. I'll provide a log file today.

Here is the whole map saved from PCLink. For myself tuning is a bit of a mystery but I promised to the tuner that I would ask about this amwtuned.pclr

Hi! I just installed the EvoLink in my Evo 3. Car is basically stock, fuel pump is a bit bigger (Walbro 255). I took it to dyno for tuning, and tuner said that the ignition values in the table are going crazy high and make no sense. We made sure that the ignition timing is fine. We were able to take the values higher and higher and more kW just kept coming, but then we just ran out of courage to put higher values in there and left it in 274 horsepowers, which is basically stock. Are these normal ignition values in Link? Is this somekind of feature in Link or did we miss a table or something? Any information would be highly appreciated, I also have the whole map if needed.