jdniss

This has worked for me with the same gauge previously @Bremen The IGN5 pin linked to GP Output is wired to ground a relay, that then powers the AEM UEGO so that it's not constantly switching on/off whenever i turn the car on/off for really short stints - probably not critical on the X-Series as I believe it has a heating function inbuilt , but the older AEM UEGO gauges were notorious for killing o2 sensors in the same fashion. There's also a chance the Lambda 1 "[Don't] Run When Stalled" function mimics the same behavior, but I've never tested it There's some discussion about the AEM gauge here too:

With respect to Nissan VCT and Toyota VVTi systems, I've seen tuners do back-to-back dyno runs at WOT, first with the system switched on throughout the whole rev range, then switched off throughout the whole rev range; Determined the optimal "crossover" points and then adjusted the activation/deactivation points to obtain the widest torque curve possible. Especially where aftermarket camshafts are used - the OEM factory switchover points are typically far from optimal. HPA cited something like a 200rpm buffer to allow the system time to activate/deactivate appropriately.

I'd be comparing your ECU pinout against the Link ECU pinouts that Adam suggested, rather than comparing both Subaru ECU pinouts against each other. That Service Manual I suggested - indicated it was for the EU market - is your vehicle maybe a JDM import that may have a slightly different pinout to the EU vehicle?

I've tee-d into one of the ports off the bottom of the throttle body on mine (S15), I suspect that "22320HJ" hose pictured on the top left-hand side. The FPR has its own tiny little right-angle hose straight to the manifold "22310B" - I would avoid tee-ing into that. The nipple at the start of the crossover pipe - "14962+A" - must be a boost only source, I tried to tee into it for MAP and the car ran horribly. EDIT: The S15 doesn't have that weird "block" in the crossover pipe where the "14962P" text is written either - tee-ing in prior to that block for MAP source, may yield odd results..

Try 'jdmfsm.info' like CJ suggested above? This one maybe? https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2005/2005 Service Manual EU.pdf Starting from Page 3,840 seems to have ECM / ECU related things..

Great thanks, clarifies it @cbDrift. It must have been the admittance of a + sign that threw me, along with everyone's comments the initial Error was below Target, when the logged MAP line was clearly above the Target Boost value in the screenshot. Calculating the numbers in this thread weren't making sense until I just looked at the calculation in software. Boost Target Error = Boost Target - Boost Pressure +3.5 = 25.1 - 21.6 -12.6 = 25.1 - 37.7 I must've assumed it was Boost Target Error = Boost Pressure - Boost Target -3.5 = 21.6 - 25.1 +12.6 = 37.7 - 25.1 Sorry to hijack thread @kevin p

Now I'm confused by the logging representation.. Are we saying Error below Boost Target is represented with a + and Error above Target value is - ? With a MAP Target of 25.1psi and current MAP of 37.7psi, I would have expected the software to report +12.6 error.. not minus..? The value below target reads like its -3.5psi from target, not +3.5psi from target?

Hi @Adamw, I determined why I was getting erratic voltage readings initially into the ECU - all my testing was done with the OEM Dash gauge cluster powered on, while the fuel level sender was also still connected to the cluster - I suspect the 5V internal pull-up in the cluster was skewing my initial readings..? Shorting both fuel level wires together at the tank was showing a consistent .42 ~ .43 Ohms at 1/3 tank, and the same .42~.43 Ohms were showing from the cluster fuel level, with the car powered off. As soon as the car and dash cluster is powered on - the fuel level voltage readings spliced at the cluster go haywire and erratic. I tried to copy this diagram as best as I could with an 18k resistor on hand - apologies, I can barely read wiring circuit diagrams - I believe I ended up with this: I also additionally tapped into the Dash Ground signal on Pin 9 as suggested by the AIM Link, and the SAU forums thread; After connecting this all up, the ECU is now reporting a stable 0.74~0.75 volts, and the pin state doesn't flip between Inactive/Active anymore. - I disconnected the Dash Ground wire halfway through as a test, and that sent the voltage and pin readings into panic again as expected. The factory OEM Dash Fuel Level is working as well. Does this circuit all look ok @Adamw? - I'm guessing its just a matter of logging the data now and adjusting the Cal 1 values to suit the fuel level estimates? - Suspecting I don't need the Math Block as that 1000uF resistor is doing the dampening for me..? Thanks

Can you reinstall the old CAS the car ran on, to determine if the new CAS is at fault? Out of interest, do a compression test and check numbers are healthy. I had an odd occurrence with an SR20 sitting there for a week parked while doing a starter motor replacement - 3/4's of the lifters bled down and the car had 0psi compression in 2 cylinders, couldn't start it at all. "Also at the request of some of my friends I attempted to pop start the car and it did somewhat succeed. I was able to get the ECU to register RPM by pop starting the car while it was rolling and it burbled a few times but ultimately it wouldn't stay running. In the log I see my IAT is errored out again.." The IAT trim was pulling about 10% of fuel at the time, maybe somewhat related to the non-start issue.

@Adamw Somewhat related - with all these various examples of Trigger Scopes floating around on the forums; Is there a chance Link Support could add example "known good" and "known bad" trigger scope screenshots to the PCLink helpfile? - To give users an indication of what a functional scope should look like? I understand its potentially a large amount of work given the large amount of supportable engines, But it might aid in reducing the number of new posts and back and forth several users have, with effectively the same question. Surely there's already a fairly large repository of pre-existing screenshots of common engines from over the years, it just hasn't been collated yet.. Happy to open a "WishList" post if you'd prefer the request there. Thanks

Does your GT2871R have the smaller 0.64 rear housing with an internal wastegate @AnthoSra? As StevieTurbo alluded to above, the smaller 0.64 housing and restrictive ~25mm internal wastegate port on the GT2860RS and GT2871 lead to boost creep issues above 14psi, especially on E85. Wastegate porting as @Stevieturbo mentioned above, along with a 40mm wastegate "flapper" type upgrade - such as HyperGear's - solved the same issue on my SR20 with a GT2860RS above 18psi. We actually then had to pull some WG DC out of the Link in lower gears, as the turbo began compressor surging ramping up too quickly onto boost. https://hypergearturbos.com/product/internalgatemod/ GCG Turbo were actually recommending this type of wastegate porting service on the later GTX28 series turbo when they were released - due to the same boost creep issue.

Don't start over in Traditional, the fuel map will differ to the current VE map under Modeled, any progress you make under Traditional will effectively be useless when you switch back to Modeled / Modeled Multi Fuel. As a side note - I ran with Modeled / Modeled Multi Fuel for 3yrs running the same older non-CAN based AEM UEGO gauge you have, I didn't even bother changing the gauge face or gauge mode to Lambda because my idiot brain refuses to learn Lambda.. Instead I borrowed suggestions from the forum and made Math Channels to auto calculate AFR / AFR Targets on the fly.

@jenkizenki is that Idle Base Position of 41% at 30° ECT correct..? The ECU looks to be commanding 30% while the Base Position Table has 41% in it - all the way up to about 20 seconds in, where the MAP drops below that 7.0psi lockout value - Idle Speed kicks in and raises the ignition timing to 30°, dropping the idle with it. It might be worth raising the MAP lockout slightly to 7.5psi, turning off Idle Ignition, re-enabling Open Loop Idle and dropping the Idle Base Position at 20~30° ECT to about the 30~35% mark - then re-enable Closed Loop Idle Speed?

What was the CAS in it? OEM CAS with an AEM 24 tooth trigger disc? - That looks to be how the Trigger Setup is configured.. I'm guessing the AEM disc was swapped over into the new CAS sensor..? 100C / 212F exactly reads more like a "default" error state.. There's an ECT error state in the log, and an IAT Fault code too.

Hey Nick, Coming from an AMD Ryzen 3 laptop that has 2 CPU Cores and 4 Threads - I'd strongly recommend moving to something a bit more powerful. I don't know what the hardware requirements for PCLink are, or whether there are any published, but honestly its a pretty horrible experience on a Dual Core machine - even with 8gb RAM and an SSD boot drive. The G4X PCLink version is somewhat slow, but man the G4+ software is horrendous to use on a low-spec machine - I'm talking in excess of 2mins to just boot the PCLink software and connect to the ECU straight from the desktop - then basically repeat that process every time you power off/on the vehicle and re-connect. I'd probably be looking at something with at least 4 CPU Cores and definitely an NVMe drive - make sure it has an Intel or AMD CPU - some users have been burnt over the years purchasing ARM-based laptops that are troublesome with PCLink USB Drivers. I'd suggest looking for a laptop with a backlit keyboard too - it'll be pretty much be unusable past dusk otherwise.