Yeahdoug

Just a follow up, I sniffed the CAN bus and tried manually sending the messages one by one the G4X sends out when you run "Find Devices". Found the one that the Keypad responded to and made a work around. So now the keypad starts working immediately when powered up. Now I need to figure out how to activate the backlight on startup.... I wish we had just bought the Link keypad. lol Thanks,

More playing around with it. So if the CAN keypad loses power it can't reconnect until I Find Devices again. So I had both the keypad and ECU using Key On Power and it would only connect when I went into the CAN settings and did Find devices. If I turn off both the ECU and keypad, when I turned it back on it wouldn't connect on it's own until I did Find Devices again. I moved the keypad to Battery power and now it's OK with the ECU turning on and off with KOP. The problem is if I flip off the main battery switch or disconnect the battery you are back to having to go in and find the device. So that's not really a solution. So my question is what happens when it looks for CAN devices. Is it sending out a CAN message and the keypad wakes up? Is there any work around you can think of. I am going to hook my CAN sniffer up and see what's happening, but maybe you have an easier way. Thanks

Ok I was able to try the new software/firmware and I made good progress before I left for work. I was able to get a simple button working and pressing on and off in the Runtime. I connected it to the Start position to run the starter. Pressed it for a second a few times and the starter worked. Yay. But then it died. Maybe after three button presses the panel stopped responding. I could see in the runtime it wasn't connected anymore. There were 2 CAN errors. I had to go in and re-send the configuration to get it working again. So that's my next challenge. Not sure if it went back to default settings or it timed out for some reason. I'll pick it up later today.

Does the G5 software have to be used? I am working on this now but not getting very far with the older g4x software. Went through the process but it’s also a 15 button panel. It finds it as “Grayhill 3k series” but the old software only has 3k208. The new software has the GH 15 button so I’m thinking I need to use that. it says Node #1 on the back but when I configure it it says Node #10. I’ve tried setting the ID to 385, 394, 1, 10. So far no dice. Gonna try the G5 software next. Didn’t see the G5 was available until after I left.

Awesome news. Thanks Adam

A car that’s being built already has a hodgepodge of new parts. (I wish they would have talked to me before buying stuff) G4x, c127 dash, no pdm, and a motec 8 button keypad. Didn’t think much of it, but I started getting ready to actually start working on it and it seems like the keypad might be a problem with no motec pdm. I found a few mentions that it might work through the c127 dash, but I’m not seeing that in any motec reference material. Do I need to tell them we need a Link or Grayhill keypad? Thanks guys

Unfortunately I don't have Aux 9/10 voltage logged on the ECU, I'll add that. I went back and looked at some old PC logs and its looks like its around 13.6-13.8 volts and drops to 12.7-12.8 at high load. Doesn't look noisy or anything. The car also has trouble idling now because it looks like the throttle is sticking at idle. So it tries to move the throttle 0.1-0.2%, but nothing is happening. The DC goes up and up until it unsticks. Then it overshoots and the car dies or revs up. You can see in the data when its sticky and surging and when it's fine and idling great. It's completely stuck as of last night and the owner will have to push the blade down to free it up to even get it to idle and move the car off the trailer. I'm really down to double check wiring and try a different (3rd) throttle body. The problem is def getting worse and it feels like the TB is f'ed up. I hate E-throttles lol. Thanks

Yes that is where the driver notices something wrong. You can see it starts to have small issues pretty early that build and get worse until it completely fails at 2:05. Wiring is stock except where it goes through a Motec adapter box (don’t ask lol) and pins into the ECU. I’ll go over all that again when I’m out west in a couple of weeks. I’ll take a look at the voltage when I have a second this morning. Thanks Adam

Another thing I thought of is this is out duning which means lots of throttle movement from bouncing around. Is this just working the throttle body too much and gets too hot. It puts more DC into it which makes the problem worse and basically thermally runs away? That throttle movement is very aggressive for just cruising along because of the bumps. I bet the stock ECU slows it down while the Link is trying hard to match the APS exactly. Should I try setting the clamps to like +/- 50% and see if that helps?

Sorry I was sent the whole log download. It's too big so I need to download just this section before I can post it. This is the best I can do right now. You can see the DC starts out ok then drifts up and starts spiking max and losing control. It gets worse and worse before really losing control. It real feels like something is wrong with the throttlebody, but like I said this is a newer unit we swapped in. Could it be a driver issue? We've had this issue since day one when we built the car last year. Some zoomed in shots. Start, middle, end. Not ideal but I wanted to post something tonight. Thanks

Thank you, I figured it would swap directions. I'll be grabbing some logs from this weekend tonight. The car is on the other side of the country so it makes it even more of a challenge.

Been chasing this issue for awhile. This on a turbo Can Am with Bosch e-throttle. It has an intermittent error that the DC will hit the max or min and then get a target error. I've got the generic Bosch e-throttle settings in it. Sometimes it can run 20 mins with no issues and sometimes it will run 2 mins and the throttle will lock up. Only happens when the engine is running. Won't do it just actuating the throttle as much as you want with the engine off. At first I suspected a mechanical issues, because when it errors out I'd have to push the blade back to its resting position by hand to get it working again. So we put a brand new throttle body on and it has the same issue. I've played with the PID, it tracks fine until the DC starts to go up and eventually locks up. I've tried different PWM freq... 10,000, 5,000 ,1,000 the same results. Reset TPS/APS a bunch... I'm thinking it might be overheating and locking up or something? I'm at the point where maybe the wiring is swapped on Aux 9/10? Is that even possible that it would run at all with that swapped? I'll get some logs later tonight and add them. Added some screen shots of my setup. Anybody had something similar happen? Thanks

Trying to get a CAN AM cluster working via can. Half the messages have a XOR 8 checksum. As far as I can tell there's not much I can do to make these channels work if the value is moving. Other ecus do have an XOR8 function since a lot of manufactures add additional crc on critical or safety related signal messages. I can't think of any way to use a math channel to calculate a running checksum. Unfortunately all the external Arduino modules are on backorder or I'd get something like a Macchina M2 and retransmit a message with the proper checksum value. Anything I'm missing or just not gonna happen with my Link G4x? Perhaps a firmware update in the future might include an XOR 8 checksum function? Thanks

It appears our CLL Auto Mode doesn't have that option. We run the Fury G4+ When I open an extreme sample file it's there. Thanks though.

Yes we have auto mode. How can it be done? I see RPM < and > lock out, but only > lockout for TPS and MAP. I need a < lockout for TPS or MAP. Thanks,

I know that most want the opposite, but is there a way I can run CLL at wot only. We have a high hp/high boost CVT application and because of the variable ratio we can get lean spots as the clutches shift out. I was thinking of trying to tune them out with CLL. I can't really use transient fuel because there is no throttle movement and the rpm stays the same. I was thinking about work arounds... does the target afr table extrapolate the first and last x-axis values? If I start the first row at 20 psi, does it extrapolate lower or turn off CLL below that value? Any other ideas are welcome too. Thanks!