dx4picco

I would think the conditions should be <550 or (<650 and AV1=1) rather than the and condition being on 550kpa

Do you only have the stock 02 sensor in the car or did you put an aftermarket wideband O2 sensor? If you only have a stock one then I would recommend you to get a wideband to really know what is going on

Last time I asked, I was told triggers should match. Get a new crank sprocket it doesn't cost much and you should get better transient ignition control

They are swapped physically and still runs because you have small dip switches on the ecu board which also swap the two signals internally in the ecu. So swap the wires back on the engine and also change the position on the switches on the ecu board. But that is not going to solve you missfires

One sensor ground can be used on many sensors or gauge signal wires. So you should be good

That is normal. With the pull up enabled you get 5V on the ANTemp pin and 0V on sensor ground pin. If you deactivate the pull up you should see 0V on that same pin that showed 5 before

So I finally recieved that aliexpress cable, welded the amphenol AU-06BFFA-LL7001 and it connects well to the ecu. spot on

what is weird, to me, the fact the a g4+ ecu is recognized normaly but not a G4X. is there anything made different made there that could induce that problem?

what are you trying to achieve?

Yes Adamn you were right! I just tried and pluged a usb hub (powered through the otg, no external source) and the tablet ringed as you connect a new device to it. then I pluged the tuning cable onto the hub ringed again, and ECU connected!!!! So I have at least this band aid possibility, thank you. I then tried afterwards to plug again the ecu into the otg without it being recognized (like it was before) so there seems to be indeed an issue there. any idea about how to get it work without hub? its a bit chunky to have the hub in the car

Do you mean analog inputs or aux outputs?

A cold cranking check is use full to know if you are in the right ball park. But a warm check at different rpm should be done to check for timing drift

The goal of using a timing light is to confirm what the software think is for example is 10°, is actually 10 physical degrees on your engine. You can put whatever value you want as base timing, the end goal is that it matches your engine spark timing. No skips possible without timing light

As heads up, I've also tested with wall wetting off, and car stats now like a charm like my other experiences with G4+, so that definetly came from that

To my knowledge ECUs are only delivered with a tuning cable. extras like can plugs are not included. To physically link your pdm to the ECU it is as simple as linking both CAN H together and CAN L respectively. Depending on what you want to acheive, the most difficult part is going to be the communication protocol in the software, but most of the time @Adamw is there to help