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Ghosty033

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  1. because the throttles are linked in pairs, there's not much i can really do about it. I did get it within 1/4th of a point by carefully scraping away the factory throttle sealing paste.
  2. Im back! Adam wins the prize! it was ITB sync this whole time! I tried individual fuel trims, this time more aggressively. I had to add 30% fuel to the middle cylinders before it would start to behave normally! Man i feel pretty stupid. Here i was assuming, being that i pulled them fresh out of a sealed Nissan box, that they would be already calibrated. Especially since Nissan put red locking compound all over the throttle stop threads, ie dont touch! Heres 2 videos of the before and after. The engine will now happily idle at 14.2 with a slight, inconsistent stumble. Not sure what that could be lol. I might just leave it at 14.0 or 13.8 etc till i get around to getting the injectors flow checked and do some plug reading when i can be bothered. Also i magically now require 50%+ duty cycle to meet my hot idle target
  3. small update for anyone watching. tried good known coils. no difference tried my old g4+ with a copy of the g4x tune loaded. It was slightly smoother but basically no change. Tried the g4+ with the old g4+ base map, which was a bit rich to begin with. Leaning it out caused the exact same issue. The engine seems to just want 12.6 AFR. I alsp tried dumping 10, 20, 30% extra fuel again with individual cylinder trimming. made little to no difference. I wonder if there is any chance the can lambda module or even the sensor could be outputting the wrong values. I dont have another wideband setup to compare it against. The lsu 4.9 that link pair with the can lambda module isnt modified in any way? Its just a generic off the shelf bosch lsu 4.9 yeah?
  4. Hey Adam, i tried playing with individual cylinder trims and it make no perceivable difference. I did find a couple of leaks whilst pressure testing. A fitting i have in the back of the balance tube had unwound itself. Ive since glued it back in and that has fixed the majority of the idle issue. I still have air leaks around my injector tip to manifold seals. But i was also pressure testing the intake with no fuel pressure. I cant find a definitive answer if i should be testing with or without fuel pressure. I dont know if the seals should just seal completely whilst static or if they only truely seal when the fuel pressure is pushing the injectors down into the manifold. Either way i changed them for new OEM Nissan items despite the "old" ones being completely fine. The rest are pre throttle body and so tiny they are not worth worrying about. They shouldn't affect anything anyway. Engine still seems to lean misfire pop and carry on when you hold it steady anywhere from off idle to 3000rpm. It hates anything remotely near stoich. Tried mucking with fuel and injection angle. Ended up just keeping it locked at 390 degrees as thats what i know worked back when i had the G4x. At this point im not sure what to do. Its doing my head in. I might just have to ditch the entire ITB thing and go back to a conventional single throttle. There goes another 5k
  5. I did have this enabled (and i will once i fix this issue) when i first fitted the ECU but all it was really doing was dragging the ignition timing really low to try and meet the idle target. Which is its job yes, but i believe the engine should be able to idle normally with the conventional "RB" 15° BTDC without idle ign timing constantly trying to manage it. My understanding is the idle ign control is used for minor fluctuations in RPM as the engine can respond much faster to ign timing than an air bleed valve moving. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Tried a few things. First i redid the idle base position table in open loop, then moved to closed loop + adjusted the min and max clamps + things like power steering compensation etc I still cant get the idle down to 850, but its only 50 or so RPM above target now. Still misfiring though at idle and when you hold the rpm anywhere from idle to say, 3000rpm. Next i turned off closed loop lambda, as i noticed in a previous attempt that if i requested bulk fuel (eg 12:1 at idle) in the target AFR table, the misfire started to disappear and the RPM actually goes up lol. So i disabled CLL and immediately the live AFR reading went up to 16-17:1, where as before with CLL enabled PC Link was showing 14:1, as per target. Correct me if im wrong but it appears that the CLL + the reading it shows in PC Link might have been masking that the fact it was lean, due to refresh rate of the CLL and the software itself? Next i made a copy and start messing around with the VE numbers from idle to around 2000rpm, no load, sitting still, just to see what would happen. Adding fuel stabilizes and almost eliminates the misfire and the revs increase naturally, but these AFRs are way too rich (ie 12:1 etc). Next i just picked a load site, targeted roughly 13.5:1 and played with the injection angle. Initially these values were set anywhere from 450 at idle to 480 at 2000rpm, experimenting showed my richest AFRs was achieved at 382 at idle and 362 at 2000rpm + the misfire improved. So obviously the values in my table are not very optimized (for a few reasons), but my assumption was that RBs aren't very picky about injection angle anyway. It could be my particular setup though! Thats about all i had time to play with it that day. My take away so far is that the engine is lean at idle and cruise based on what my o2 is reading, it wants bulk fuel... too much fuel and im not sure why. The plugs look fine (if anything lean) and even from front to back. I changed them again just in case. It really seems like i have an air leak, but i cant seem to prove it. FWIW i have brand new, from nissan, rb26 throttles which have pre-set throttle stops that are glued over so you cant adjust them. All of my hoses, fittings, gaskets, orings that connect the balance tube to the vac box are brand new OEM etc. The throttle turn buckle to push rod lengths were set as per the Nissan workshop manual with the feeler gauge etc. I think ive done everything humanly possible to avoid the RB26 ITB setup issues except vacuum balancing each ITB, which i do not have the tools to do anyway. I also suspect my cam timing could be playing a minor part in this as its a 25/30 with a tensioner/idler setup, which is known to put the cams out a couple degrees, but i haven't had the time + tools to actually find out + i ran out of time on the dyno to do it the sloppy way. I would also like to try another set of known good coil packs, just to eliminate that. I have a few more logs to mull over, which are from me doing the idle position + mucking around with VE and inj position etc. For those reading this thread, thinking of doing an Rb26 ITB setup on an RB25 VCT head, just dont lol.
  6. try now Edit: Here is another log from cold start. It begins to misfire around 3:20. Again tried spraying water around the throttle bodies and adapter plates. Doesnt make a change. Also seems to misfire as i hold low RPM. Could be my coils or maybe the VCT gear is dying? FWIW there is no misfire when you give in the beans, under boost etc, which usually rules out coils. The plugs are brand new BCPR7ES 0.8 gapped. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ajkL064ZNI0jW2K5r_XkBKMk7Q0kOejV/view?usp=sharing
  7. ah, make a cal table and use these settings
  8. If its for the common M10x1.0 sensor, Bosch standard NTC for temp and Bosch 10 Bar for pressure
  9. Hello again, The car has been tuned since ive lasted posted. For the most part, everything went according to plan except for a few persistent issues. It seems like ever since I fitted the g4x ECU over the g4+, i havent been able to get the idle down to target and the engine begins to mildly misfire whilst idling, specifically once it gets to operating temperature. Its almost like its hitting a mini limiter or something? My brain tells me its probably a manifold air leak and the thermal expansion is making it worse as it warms up. I figured id ask here first to rule out the ECU and the tune as a possible culprit, as i know the idle strategy is completely different with the x vs the +. So far ive only had time to quickly check for air leaks via spraying water around the manifold flanges, checking hoses, caps, clamps, unplugging the idle solenoid completely, changing plugs, changing coil dwell etc. So far nothing has made a difference and unplugging the idle solenoid doesn't change anything. Here is the tune file + a quick log of the car idling with me spraying water, removing air blanking caps and changing the ign dwell. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ijud0rDJjd1pCjPWzjpSQjGmmCUsBjeF/view?usp=share_link I also have a small intermittent misfire whilst cruising at part throttle. I havent had my laptop with me to log it yet and it seems to come in after a bit of driving. My guess is that it is probably related to the idle misfire. Any help appreciated!
  10. Awesome, thanks for the help again Adam. Its good to know im not totally insane. Got around to throwing the tune file into the new ECU. Everything has worked as intended, except the car would start and then die 10 seconds later. After much head scratching and some help from a mate, it turns out the GP aux i set up to run the FP relay needed its logic changed as it was switching off once the engine was running, thus killing the supply to the PWM module. Instead of FP Speed = Active. Ive changed it to FP Speed >= Active and as a precaution i added a secondary 1 OR 2 condition of RPM >= 50RPM. Now the relay stays active whilst the engine is running. Thought id mention it here in case it catches anyone else out.
  11. Hey, I recently decided to move over from the G4+ to the G4X platform. Currently im in the midst of manually transferring my current configuration over to the G4X software and ive run into a couple issues i need some assistance with. First question is the crank trigger setup. The engine is an RB25/30 and Im using the factory Nissan CAS with an AEM 24+1 replacement disc. Ive replicated the settings in the G4X software and i have this extra setting for the "sync tooth". Ive read the help file and im still not 100% sure what to do with it. Here are some screenshots. G4+ left, G4X right Next question is the fuel pump control options. Im running a Ford/Jag/Range Rover PWM fuel pump controller and Im also still using the factory Nissan fuel pump relay to switch the power supply on/off to the module. In the G4+ software this was fine as i set Aux2's function to "FP Speed", which ran the PWM module, and Aux 6's function to "Fuel Pump", which ran the relay, filled out the required tables/settings, happy days. Both aux's were tied to the same basic background function (ie priming w/ key on and active based on engine speed). The problem i have now is, because the software has changed, I cant seem to find a way to manually apply a function, even duplicates of the same function, to any specific pin, they are all locked? Here is aux 5 as an example. In the G4+ software, if i desired, i could make aux 1, aux 2, aux 3, aux 4 etc all function as "fuel pump" by simply selecting this function in the pop up menu. Obviously this is insane, but i could do it if i wanted to lol. To do anything in the G4X software, i have to first find the existing function in one of the drop down lists, enable it and then apply that function to an available pin. If that specific function is already assigned to a pin, you cant duplicate that function again. Is this right or have i missed something or am i doing something wrong? Here are my FP settings side by side. G4+ left, G4X right Ideally in the G4X popup menu i would need a "Standard + PWM control" with 2 pin assignments. The only potential solution ive come up with is if i set the "fuel pump control output" to aux 2 in "open loop PWM" and then assign aux 6 to a "GP output" or "Chassis Power Relay" and tie aux 6s logic to whether the FP speed is active or not. Any help appreciated
  12. So, "tonight" quickly turned into "this weekend". Seems to be functioning fine, dead sensor confirmed. Dont repeatably cold start your LSU 4.9 equipped car gentlemen. Here's a log. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A1MhaUDCAdIgiQbYPwi6TTsP-ubhGxkR/view?usp=sharing
  13. Havent had time to have do a better analysis yet and go for a drive but i did buy a new sensor, throw it in and start it up. Its back to reading normally. Ill try go for a lap tonight and do a log
  14. Unfortunately I've run into an issue with, i think, either the Link Can lambda module or the LSU 4.9 sensor itself. For reference its a #NGTR G4+ plugin ECU running a fresh Rb25/30 in an R33 GTS-t. This is the first time I've driven it in 5 or so years and its also the first time with this engine and ECU + Sensor combination. It's currently giving me error 26 for the controller. The ecu itself is reading lambda at 1.9 to 2.0 or even higher. Obviously this isn't accurate as it wouldn't start/run and i have made no changes to fueling. Currently it has a rough base map based off a friends tune to get me going, which is using a very similar engine setup. The Can Lambda has been reading/behaving fine every time I've had to start, move the car around, first heat cycle, tweak the idle settings etc and even the first drive the car drove fine, no lean misfires, hesitation etc. Im thinking i may have killed the sensor from condensation shock during cold start? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Things I've checked and changed since the error occurred include: Checking the voltage at various locations = 14.7V with the engine running (i have an LS1 alternator fitted) Fitting the recommended 22uF smoothing cap to the supply wires of the CAN Lambda module. Checking if CAN HIGH/LOW are in the correct spots = Yep Checking/re-seating the earth points = All come up with .02-.03 of an ohm. Adding bulk fuel at idle to the point of rich misfiring to see if the reading would change = It did not. Googling lol --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other things worth noting about my particular setup. The Can Lambda controller uses its own positive power supply coming directly from the battery. Specifically i am reusing the ABS power supply wiring as my car was never fitted with it, but it exists in the front half of the main loom. Its a large cable (12awg) that is fused in the engine bay fuse box, which has a direct feed from the battery in the boot. The earth is located with the rest of the ECU/Related earths mounted to the intake manifold in the factory location. The module is switched on via an OEM relay mounted down next to the factory ECCS relay. It is triggered by the same wires that trigger the ECCS relay. The CAN HIGH/LOW wires are an un-shielded twisted pair running inside the main harness, right down next to the ECU terminating at a 2 pin plug, which then goes into the ecu to the expansion header. The module itself is mounted in the engine bay up in the far left corner on top of the wiper amplifier. Id imagine it would get warm, but not absolutely cooked etc. The LSU 4.9 sensor is mounted at 12 o'clock in the dump pipe just after the turbo. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ive attached a couple logs (one from today and one from the first drive) and the corresponding tune file. Note that in the first portion of the "first drive" log, the sensor seems to read wildy wrong, then suddenly reads correctly and then reads wildy wrong again. It also seems that me touching the throttle seems to make it go stupid (excluding the decel inj cut) Any help appreciated! R33 Skyline.pclr Log 2022-07-17 2;47;50 pm - lambda issue.llg Log 2022-07-16 2;38;31 pm - first drive on road.llg
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