Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


0x33 last won the day on April 17

0x33 had the most liked content!

About 0x33

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Can you attach your map file. I can't see anything obvious from the log that would indicate an issue with the calibration. Can you check your fuel pressure? To me it sounds like you arent getting enough fuel mechanically, hence why car stalls when you try to rev it. Please provide some basic specs for your setup. Types of injectors used, fuel, cams etc etc.
  2. Couple of things: 1) Your have not configured your MAP sensor. Go to map sensor calibration and set it up. 2) You have no IAT sensor connected, or your wiring for it is bad as the IAT sensor is showing 5v for longer than it should and going into an error state. Once this happens the ECU defaults the IAT to its error state and shows 100C. In turn this is causing a fuel & ignition trim which won't help you with starting. To get the car started you can swap AN TEMP 1 function from MAF IAT to IAT, but ideally a dedicated IAT sensor near inlet is required. 3)
  3. Strange issue. Some of your settings for idle seem redundant, for example when you turn the AC request on the following things are happening: - Idle base position table switching from 3.7% to 5.1% - Engine Fan Offset adds + 1% - GP Idle Offset adds + 10% + 300RPM Idle Target - AC Idle Up Offset adds +8% + 100RPM Idle Target When AC request is turning on and off you have around 20% idle duty being added, which is crazy for ethrottle. I can see you have set a maxmium idle clamp of 4.7% so the Ethrottle dosent go to 20%, but this combination of settings seems li
  4. I've had weird issues with this using the same type of throttle body on VVTi Supra. Seems to be a G4X quirk, as never had this issue on G4+. Spent ages going round and round try to figure out why it thought H-Bridge polarity reversed. In the end I gave up on the auto calibration and entered the relevant voltage data for TPS & APS, going from my old G4+ maps and it worked perfectly. These are my settings that I've tested on two different cars and worked nicely. Some adjustment to voltages may be required based on your setup.
  5. IAT fuel trim was used before VE mode became a thing on links a few years ago. It's still there as an option for anyone running traditional mode (although you can use charge temp approx with traditional thes days) If you are running charge temp table then you can turn IAT fuel trim off in most cases.
  6. Attach your map and a log so we can help you diagnose.
  7. Attach your tune file and a log of you trying to start it.
  8. Just to add to this thread. Been having hot start issues with wall wetting enabled on RB26 and 2JZ, usually between 2-5%. Was scratching my head as to why it was causing issues, but remembered this thead and disabled wall wetting and starts every time. Still not as fast as G4+, seems like it takes one engine cycle longer. Can the documentation for wall wetting and asynch injection be improved whilst you are looking at this. Maybe give some worked examples, hard to understand the balance between Async, wall wetting and accel enrichment.
  9. 0x33

    not injecting

    Post your log & map for help with diagnostics. Check you are not getting any trigger errors. If there is no sync you wont get any fuel or ignition.
  10. If you are using a 36-1 trigger wheel then you need to use Trigger mode "Multitooth/Missing". Then under trigger 1 settings you can allocate how many teeth the wheel has and how many are missing. Trigger 2 settings look correct if you just want the Cam tooth from the dizzy to be your cam signal. Maybe take your filtering back down to 1 though, don't use filtering if you dont have to.
  11. 0x33

    Wideband Controller

    I would second Adam's suggestion to avoid the innovate. They do work, but no CAN support and I've had issues with reliability on the controllers. On the flip side I have used close to 30 AEM X-lines with Link with no issues. Can wire it to use analog signal or CAN depending on what you prefer. If you are using wideband lambda then there is no need for factory 02 sensor
  12. Couple of things I noticed: - You can upgrade to latest firmware - Your idle status is doing some weird stuff, looks like a bug to me. I haven't seen it before personally, so might be a question for link staff. These are the possible idle status you can have, yet your idle status displays numbers that change as you are driving. Here is a screenshot from a log on one of my maps. Now compare your idle status from your log Not sure if that will have an effect on this jerking issue, but very odd behaviour. The idle status changing rapidly is also not
  13. You might want to attatch a log and a map so we can see what you are working with. Typically for e85 you will need a lot of crank enirchment to get the engine to kick. Once it fires, make sure you have enough post start enrichment fuel to keep engine alive, then slowly decay the fuel out, but not so quickly that engine starves of fuel. By the time you reach warm up enirchment (30s-1minute into engine starting) you can then start leaning out fuel mixture to whatever target you have set. But try and keep it richer for the first minute to help engine stay alive.
  14. Before considering what your injector duty is doing, consider what your fuel map looks like. Modelled mode is meant to model airflow based on VE. Your numbers in your VE table make no sense. I've yet to come across any engine that is only 20% efficient on idle, typically this value is around 50-70 depending on cams etc. You have one of the following things going on: - Mechnical issue like bad fuel pressure, intake system leak, bad injectors, bad lambda sensor etc. - Tuning issue like: Incorrect injector data, engine data, charge temp correction, sensor calibrations etc.
  • Create New...