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0x33

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Everything posted by 0x33

  1. Use audio knock detection to confirm if you are knocking or not.
  2. Just to add to this. Maybe the option to connect to other ECU's/devices should be relagated to a drop down menu option, rather than prompting you when connecting to ECU. Really slows down workflow. Maybe its just coincidence, but since running the latest release it seems like the entire software is running so bloody slow, its infuriating. I'll have to try the steps outlined above to see if I get same behavior, but I've had a crash or two and couple tables bug out on me, as I'm constantly connecting/disconnecting from the ECU. Normally Link software is bulletproof so this is not great. Please fix!
  3. try this. wasnt sure on your injectors, but see if better/worse newstart.pclx
  4. can you post a log of it happening. also what throttle are you using
  5. If you arent getting trig 1 and possibly trig 2 sync depending on your setup then you wont get any injectors or coils firing. Basically if you dont see RPM on ECU when cranking then investigate that.
  6. To me you have a few weird things on the log that I'd look into further. a) If lambda measurement is correct then you are a decent amount leaner than your target coming onto boost. On E85 you may need to richen it up some more to keep things from wanting to misfire. b) Your dwell time seems to go all over place during said misfire. Maybe a Link engineer can confirm, but I'd imagine this is due to an RPM fluctuation or momentary loss of triggering position thats not being picked up on 40HZ pc logging. I have seen something similar before from a faulty CAM sensor. I doubt you have a crank/cam sensor issue but it does bring me onto the last point c) For a factory toyota setup these arming thresholds seem a bit optimistic and I've seen misfires caused by these being really out of whack. Unless you have done this already then use the triggerscope to scope each RPM breakpoint and enter in new values for the threshold. Theres a guide on this in the helpguide in the software if you arent sure. Also your VVT has not been setup properly. Might be an idea to set that up and get it configured properly
  7. 0x33

    Zf8hp75

    Not directly, you will need to use turbolamik or CANTCU to control gearbox. From there you can send data, torque requests etc through canbus and use strategies on the Link to manage torque reductions, blips etc. At least thats how I normally do it
  8. You should send it to Link for repair or you will lose lifetime warantee on the board.
  9. 0x33

    Tacho

    You need to do the tachometer resistor mod for the NA clocks and add a wire from tacho output on ECU to tachometer circuit
  10. Connector is the same and pinout is 95% similar between JZA80
  11. GE Distributors seem to be quite sensitive on G4X issues to trigger issues predominantely around idle, have seen a few so far. Try putting Trigger 1 and Trig 2 filtering to level 4. Has worked for me on a few now. Here are settings I've used sucessfully on a GE distributor that was giving the same trigger scope as you had above. Your trigger offset will be different depending on where you set the distributor.
  12. The stock boost control system dosent work well with most standalone ECU's due to its plumbing from factory. Rather than wasting your time on it, change the factory boost solenoid to a 3 port mac valve and you can find some diagrams online on how to change the plumbing to work with the new solenoid.
  13. Or you know, they could just build this feature into the start up settings, wouldnt be that difficult rather than wasting I/O on a fairly basic function. Stop Switch & Antitheft will disable ignition, which is not ideal. You want the motor to turn over with ignition, so if there is fuel in cylinder it will still fire, just injectors wont fire on top of that.
  14. I dont have any spare virtual aux's on the application I'm working on, hence a dedicated setting for it would be nice so I dont have to waste a virtual aux on it.
  15. Can maximum number of gears be increased from 8 to 10 or more. Been trying to integrate 8 speed automatic boxes, but need more than 8 "gears" to allocate the 8 drive gears + N + R + P Edit: Appreciate CAN can be used for this, but on some applications I'm restricted to using an analog output that spans 0v to 4.5v for 8 speed + P + N + R
  16. Be nice to have a seperate setting for 100% throttle for flood clear on startup. Simple checkbox option. Can integrate this into crank enrichment map normally, but becomes a problem when using multifuels that require axis setup on ethanol %
  17. 0x33

    AFR varies by gear

    Transitional loads through various gear will affect fueling like this. You could set up a bunch of adjustment maps based on gear and load if you have enough time but the possible variations and enviornmental factors will take a while to account for, you might find better results dialing in the closed loop fueling control to keep you on target for these small discrepancies a much better use of time.
  18. I do something similar using charge temps and varied post hold times/decays. helps massively with heat soak starts, so you are thinking along the right lines
  19. JZA80 speed signal from factory goes from the Speed sensor -> Dash -> Odometer -> ECU The odometer changes to signal from one type to another before sending to the various ECU's on the car including the engine ECU. If your dash speedo works, then investigate the speed signal wiring between odometer and the Link ECU. Most JZA80 speedos always read incorrectly due to wheel changes etc. So normally when doing Link ECU install I change the wiring for speed signal to: Speed Sensor -> Link ECU -> Dash -> Odometer -> Other non engine ECU's. Doing it this way you can calibrate the speed signal incoming to Link to be accurate, then output a calibrated signal to Dash to get speedo accurate whilst keeping the factory ODO reading accurately and other body ECU's happy (Assuming your dash wiring is stock). On passengerside footwell plug (RHD) Cut Pin 2. Run the plug side of Pin 2 to a spare aux output on Link ECU and set as Speedo Out Run the loom side of Pin 2 to DI1 (PinA2) on ECU header and calibrate as GP Speed or Wheel speed input Pull up needs be enabled with factory wiring and with this modified setup above.
  20. The real question is, when is Link going to release a multi channel (6 or 8) lambda controller. Daisy chaining 7 CAN Lambdas to do the job looks messy as, would be nice to have everything contained in one unit.
  21. Reduce the voltage threshold for trig 1 and 2 from 0.5v to 0.2v at 500rpm
  22. These are my settings from an ECUMaster EGT if it helps.
  23. I turn it off normally otherwise closed loop and quick tune fight each other.
  24. 0x33

    No tacho after COP

    Dude. Look at what you are doing versus what the diagrams show. You have it wired wrong still lol. I've circled Pin 29 on the orange connector. You have cut Pin 36 which is your reverse light wire.
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