koracing

Is the stepper motor homing properly each time? What are your hold power settings? Also your AFR is quite rich. Have you tried leaning it out to see if it will improve idle speed?

I would add some pre-crank prime as well for those injectors. For stepper motor I would recommend trying setting it to open loop and work on what stepper values give you near the idle you want by setting them manually, then turn on closed loop after you figure out what works for your car and can make a curve that work well. Idle ignition control can make a big difference as well, but probably it is best to try and tune fuel and stepper motor position for all idle areas without that turned on first.

I would also make sure to use a RPM level so that your wideband doesn't just light up 20 seconds after key on if you were sitting there without the engine running.

If it is somewhat adjustable radially then you shouldn't have a problem with tooth alignment.

I've been looking at making a plug-in solution for the 99-00 and 01-05 Miatas and the alternator control is one of the issues that I'm looking at. I fairly certian there will be additional hardware required to make the control happy and I've looked at several stand alone type controllers, but I think a dumbed down version of one of these with the Link providing the logic via an output similar to what you've done is the right solution. My guess is you're exceeding the capability of standard hardware outputs from the link which is tripping your Fault (overcurrent possibly?), and you would prob

What size are your injectors? The Pre crank prime is in milliseconds, so the values there will vary depending on injector size.

.6bar is 60 kpa.... Which is larger than 28...

I'm all updated on all of my devices and they connect without issue. Just plugged a link into my desktop that is new as of July this year and currently up to date. No problems recognizing and connecting. Screen capture of unplugging USB and plugging back in. LinkG4X_PlugIn_DeviceManagerVIew.mp4

Perhaps doing the opposite of what this article recommends would help? https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-stop-windows-from-detecting-new-hardware Your uknown usb device is likely the usb-serial com port emulator for the Link ecu, though. Does that change when you plug in or unplug the Link ecu and scan for hardware changes?

Have you tried anything like this: https://www.dell.com/community/Desktops-General-Read-Only/No-Ports-listed-in-Device-Manager/td-p/3777524 It seems weird there are no ports showing in the device manager. What shows up under other devices on your device manager list?

Oh 4AGZE! Nice. Your log looks the same on my PC as yours. Never seen that before. I've tried twice to export the data to a csv file and it's locked up pc link each time. Is it doing this every time you try to log?

I think it would be best to try and get link support to remotely log into your computer and check your installation of the software as well as settings for the drivers. You've installed the latest version of PC Link for the G4x, correct? Any error messages during installation?

Very weird looking. Can you attach the log file as well as the tune file so someone trying to help may be able to check how your logging is set up?

Well just did a remote session with customer using the new USB direct beta firmware. It worked better for sure - maybe a little better than 50/50 it would stay on and connected when starting the motor. A very nice improvement for sure, but not perfect yet either.

It might help if you attach a datalog from the software from when key is off, then while cranking, as well as the file loaded into the ecu currently.