koracing

For a base ignition table - the Link Base map is probably a reasonable starting point. I would add more load and rpm points and let it interpolate beyond that.

Page two shows the resistance empty and full so you can use that as a guide for setting it up in the software I would think.

Beta testing a new firmware. So far has started every time without a trigger issue. I think Link fixed it.

SW20 fuel level sensor has 3 wires - ground, varialbe level resistance, and a wire for the low level light.

I agree with @essb00: that's a basic PWM inductive (and therefore non-polar) solenoid and should work just fine. Power to one pin, second pin to ECU ISC output (I usually use Aux Output 1 or 2).

Yes the ST205X is the correct ecu to use with a late Gen2 (93-95 USDM or 93 JDM). You will need to double check your MAP sensor input pin location as the base map they have is for Gen3, not late Gen2 and that pin moves.

If you have an internal log, you would go to the Logging -> ECU Log File Download -> Download All (or pick what you want to download). It should give you a save dialog so you can choose where to save it. After that, it should prompt you once you save the log to open it for viewing, but I find at least 50% of the time it doesn't actually open for viewing if you select yes. You can still go to Logging -> Open Log File and open it to view if it doesn't pop up.

Have you tried the help menu? lol. Menu at the top Logging -> Logging Setup -> select the tab for "ECU Logging" and then you can set the parameters to log as well as control the conditions for when the internal logging will be active.

Part of the appeal of that particular CAN lambda device.

I view the extra inputs on the Xtreme due to it not using up 5 pins for the wideband to be an advantage over the Fury, plus the lower cost ($1535 vs. $1750). CAN wideband controllers externally are my preference and still give full functionality of all closed loop bank to bank functions. The advantage of the internal wideband I think is largely error reporting and startup power control to prevent thermal shocking and potentially extending sensor life. If you use an output (or some other logic device) to control relays powering the external wideband controllers you can also have control to h

This is on the latest firmware now (6.19.60) but the problem was there on the previous firmware as well. I have the tune files available for download linked in here that would indicate what version software and firmware are being used. I'm not sure why turning off bank 2 tables would matter since there is only 1 output assigned to a VVT solenoid anyway, and that's specified for the appropriate bank. I've not heard of or experienced an issue with vvt being turned on and then upgrading firmware causing a problem. This car has been running fine since December when I installed and tuned the ec

Here are three more scopes and log from this morning (log was taken while all three scope captures were performed). Datalog: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4fr2fxxmhtqewys/TriggerScopeLog.llgx?dl=0 Scope 1 no start: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z12fob8vvhu82n2/TriggerScopeLog_01_031321_NO START.llgx?dl=0 Scope 2 fires up: https://www.dropbox.com/s/avcxg1dvoxwy622/TriggerScopeLog_02_031321_Started.llgx?dl=0 Scope 3 while idling: https://www.dropbox.com/s/c8r8lmwl0ddw6zg/TriggerScopeLog_03_031321_Running.llgx?dl=0

Here you go: https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1hqoqm6mwrhygj/TriggerScope_NewtriggerWires_03-04-21.llgx?dl=0

Customer car: 1997 Mazda Miata with 2001 VVTi engine swap. ECU: G4x Plug-in with adapter to 1997 Miata ecu pinout. Problem: Cranking the car does not reliably show RPM. Trigger tests have shown good signals, and sometimes inverted cam signals when testing via trigger scope function in a no-start situation. Cam sensor: Hall effect - VVTi 2-1 trigger pattern Crank senosr: Hall effect - 4 tooth crank Sometimes the car will fire up fine several times in a row. Other times the car won't fire up. When datalogging, or with laptop connected you can see there is no rpm signal in the

Is it possible your knock sensor is dead? You may want to consider a remote tuning session to help you get that working. Posting up your tune would allow someone to also check your settings to see if anything has been missed.