koracing

The anti-theft feature and logic discussed above in the link is all link features and has nothing to do with the OEM immobilizer setup on a car. So yes, you could implement these features on a 2004 STi without a factory immobilizer as long as it was equipped with a Link G4X ecu.

IMO: single point group - may as well throw a carburetor on there, lol.

A trigger offset of something around 356 should be close enough to start on a 3SGTE with a distributor no matter how much the distributor is adjusted one way or the other (I do a lot of these). Did you bypass the OEM injector resistor pack? I agree with 1050s the fuel might be a bit much. Oem injector size is 440cc so probably cut that value in half.

If you're not seeing the voltage on the input wire, it's probably not the Link that's the problem. You will probably need to do a continuity test from the ecu pin to the TPS connector to confirm it is connected where you think it should be.

Usually I start with something pretty close to what is in the help menu and adjust from there if it doesn't seem to track well. Have you tried that table? Can be found at ECU Tuning functions --> Fuel Setup --> Charge Temp Correction

The ECU doesn't control the AC system on the ST185 or earlier SW20 typically - it's controlled by the AC Amplifier. The pin 63 - Aux6 is wired to the AC Cancel input - I typically assign this to a GP output and set it to be active with RPM > 5000 OR MAP>120kpa. You don't need anything from the ECU to trigger/turn on the AC system.

Most Toyotas I tune use the 3 wire without issue, perhaps just compare settings with the default base map on the ST185X or ST205X ecus as these are typically the ones I'm using. I've never noticed an aux2 fault in operation with MR2s/Celicas.

At least temporarily I would set the ECU logging setup to log knock table level 1, 2, 3, 4 at 1000Hz to ensure you aren't missing any data. You can vary this value down once you see what the signal is doing at that higher logging frequency.

You would need to set engine RPM = 0 for it to be active while the engine is not running. You don't really need a timer - you can just set the On delay for the virtual aux to 20s.

I'm not really familiar with the GP 3 Wire solenoid function - but if it's moving the way it should, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I would only be concerned if it is throwing some type of faults when in the ISC function mode. Also, I would think it *should* go to the idle base position setting or a commanded min setting if assigned to the idle control function. What does the reported position show it's doing when you change base position while it's assigned to the idle control settings?

Couple things: If it ever exceeds threshold from the time the engine was started, it will pull timing from that cylinder, and will only slowly bring that timing back if passes through the same spot again without exceeding threshold. So if before you started logging, it exceeded threshold on cylinder three - it stored that retard into the knock I-trim table for cylinder 3. It only removes that stored value completely when it resets at Key on, or slowly based on your settings when it goes through the same cell again but without exceeding threshold. Secondly, it's also possible your logging rate is aliasing out some data - there could be a spike that exceeds threshold but you aren't logging at a fast enough rate to capture it.

The Aux 6 pin is wired from the factory to an AC cancel input on the AC Amplifier. It should be removed as having any function from the AC setup in the base map - having it set to be the AC control relay in the software per link's base map makes it turn off the ac as soon as it turns on in an ongoing cycle.

Do you get an RPM signal while cranking? You'll need to adjust the trigger offset to match up to the new trigger setup for cylinder 1 using a timing light.

The factory oil light is triggered by a pressure switch in that location that is set to something like 4psi. Nearly useless as at 4psi your motor is probably already done for. No factory oil temperature sensor on the engine.

I agree the WG DC vertical axis should be boost target, not MAP. I think the MAC 3 port valves are more linear at 24Hz than 30Hz in my own experience.