koracing

Usually ring seal is better and oil consumption is lower. There's a lot that goes into that happening, however, beyond just the break in. I pay particular attention on engines I build to ring gap, ring quality, surface finish, and the type of lube used on the cylinder walls and piston rings during engine assembly.

I typically dyno tune full power full RPM after the first 20 minute oil change on new engine builds. Typically has worked out much better than the low rpm extended soft break-in. To each their own.

Also make sure you have your connection preference set to USB so it should automatically reconnect when the ecu powers back up.

Yes, I don't use these any more as I've seen 3 fail in short order on one car. Exact same issue they start leaking through the pins. All sourced from legitimate sources and verified Bosch make.

The ST205 should have a good speed signal (Factory hall effect sensor) to the ecu to allow you to set up gear position. I agree the manual process works simply and reliably. For posterity: Earlier (ST185 and ST165) have cables that mechanically drive the cluster using what I believe to be reed switches in the that sends a speed signal to the ecu. These usually have a lot of noise with the Link. The factory cruise control speed sensors, however, are hall effect and can be wired directly to the ecu to provide good speed signals if the car was originally equipped with cruise control.

I know my brother's Celica ST185 intermittently does this, but these Celicas are notorious for weak power to the factory ecu power pin (i.e. low voltage) due to possible corrosion in the factory fuse box and ignition switch. We have the factory power wiring triggering a relay to the ecu so that when it does power up (like 90+% of the time) it gets accurate voltage compared with what the injectors and coil are seeing. I would say it could be ecu related, but it's done it with two different ecus.

You've used up 45 tables? Perhaps you can eliminate or consolidate some tables to free them up for the 4D. In particular - I find that boost control often can be done by using ethanol percent to change target, but keep just one base duty table based on boost target.

Attach a copy of your tune also.

I would unplug all sensors, injectors, ignition components etc. and see if your ecu powers up plugged into the car or if for some reason something is grounding your 5v or 12v in your car. If it powers up with everything else unplugged - then plug in one thing at a time until you find the thing that makes it power the ecu off.

Try depinning everything but those two pins and see if it powers up.

I set a GP output to Aux 6 (ACT pin) to activate based on RPM or boost level on 3SGTEs equipped with AC. Simply changing the active state to High (it's never going to see that) will simply disable that output. The ACT pin is not entirely necessary for AC function as the AC amplifier does most of the control on Gen2 3SGTE ecus, but like you said it's nice to be able to use it to shut of at certain load and RPM values. The vehicle I'm tuning now is a ST185 1990 USDM model that I had to do this with. I think what's more common is that a lot of people don't have working AC any more so they just don't see this problem in the base maps.

This is normal operation for the aux outputs 1-10. If you use Aux 11-16 (if they are available) they don't ground when the ecu loses power.

Most injectors flow less on ethanol versus pump gas, as well as sometimes the deadtimes can change. If it was running perfectly on pump gas, I would copy that table to table 2 and then modify the multi-fuel injector flow rate (start with 5-10% less cc/min flow than the pump gas) until you get it to idle and run a low throttle input stead state within a few percent of what it did on pump gas. Then test and see if changing lambda target see the appropriate change in lambda measured.

Are the injectors known-good? I've had some in the past that were sourced from a "reputable" seller only to have nothing but issues with them. I don't think the seller was intentionally selling defective injectors, but where ever they were getting them from I think perhaps wasn't totally legit.

That base map was for stock injectors also FYI - you'll need to change the flow rate to the 800cc/min you're using now. What 800s are they? Sard side feeds?