koracing

What is the part number of your AEM X-series oil pressure gauge? The bus only needs one 120ohm resistor at the end of the two wire bus. Along the way you can connect many devices. See the Help menu in the software --> Wiring Information --> Communication Wiring --> CAN Bus Wiring. The settings I have for an AEM X-series oil pressure gauge (I believe there are a couple versions) for one customer is: CAN Configuration: Mode: User Defined Bit Rate: 500kbps OBD: OFF Data: Channel: Receive User Stream 2 Mode: Receive User Stream 2 CAN ID: 656129 Format: Extended Stream 2: Add Frame -> Frame 1: Frame size: 8 ID Position: None ID (decimal): n/a Parameter: CAN An1 - Oil Pressure Start Position: 0 Width: 16 Byte Order: MS First Type: Unsigned Multiplier: 1 Divider: 1 Offset: 0 Analog Input: Oil Pressure: Source: CAN An1 Error: 0.0kpa Calibration: None

According to the help menu all the digital inputs can read 10kHz or higher depending on the amplitude of the signal. Your wiring plans should work fine.

What "auto tune" are you referring to? If there are values that work well in steady state for those spots you can mark those cells as "tuned" (click Z while in that cell or group of cells), and/or if using closed loop long term trim, you can change to using a max/min table set and changing what the maximum value allowed to add or subtract in those areas are.

"Find Devices" only works for Link CAN devices, not other aftermarket CAN devices. If your oil pressure is an X-Series AEM gauge you can connect it via CAN as well. Usually a voltage low error is due to calibration settings on that analog input.

Drain is most likely a shield wire for the signal - so it should most likely go to sensor ground as well as the 0v or ground pin. The sensor spec shows it can take 4.5v to 24v input - so 5v or 12v should both work ok - as long as your "low" voltage input drops below 1v when low. Signal wire needs to run to a digital input on the ecu.

I've also seen a "Formula D tuner" disable about every failsafe imaginable because they would rather blow a motor than do bad on a run due to a failsafe. If memory serves me the datalog I pulled off of a Formula D car's ecu showed coolant temps rising to 240-250°F during a run and they didn't seem to care. I personally have too much mechanical sympathy to do that to a motor.

A 3 port solenoid provides more resolution for closed loop boost control tuning if you don't need a large range of boost control - typically with a 3 port you can go from wastegate spring pressure to a bit over double the wastegate spring pressure. If you decide to go to a 4 port you are probably better off using an open loop table. You can use the Link 3 port, or any reputably sourced MAC boost solenoid 3 port (be careful buying these off Amazon or Ebay as they are often knock-offs and won't perform reliably or predictably). The MAP sensor should ideally use a dedicated line to the intake manifold after the throttle body without any other connections or tee fittings on that same line. If there is no other option, then sharing the FP regulator line is possible to do but should be rigorously checked for good connections that are leak free and will resist sliding off any ports under boost. Zip ties or clamps at a minimum on vacuum hoses that will see boost. The Defi sensors can be read into the ECU on analog inputs, but you will need to know their calibrations. If you're running the Defi gauge still, then no external pullup resistor should need to be added or utilized. The Link wideband knock sensor is a good unit if you're considering using it. If your OEM knock sensor is still in good working condition, however, it can be used. I would get the expansion loom for any possible future upgrades as well as it can make wiring in additional sensors much easier. As far as immobilizer/keyless start - I know there are two different base maps - one for a Key ignition start vehicle, and one for a push button start. I'm unsure how that specifically relates to keyless start. I would think with the Link installed there would be no immobilizer as the OEM ecu is no longer present.

Oops - let me fix that. Fixed - refresh and link should be corrected.

Your E-throttle target table is nearly empty. Your idle base position may also need to increased if it won't idle on its own. You're also running very rich. Try this tune: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/o2b6mzc8ctsan9xn247af/Gsosa99-Toyota-Altezza-SXE10-7Bar-G4X-plugin-Modelled-fuel-E-throttle-table-filled.pclx?rlkey=soimrbcd6rjf5u06yb0q3c8a2&dl=0

It appears according to the help menu you have two 8 pin epansion plugs on the board as well with one of them having 3 aux outputs suitable to ground the trigger side of a relay to control your fans. You'll need the XSL expansion loom for G4+/G4x plug-in ecus pn 101-0106.

What mods or additional sensors have you added to your car/engine? I may have a modelled base map I've made for a mostly stock setup you could try also.

If the lambda is reporting something close to accurate - .499 is VERY rich. If you want to keep it on traditional mode then you should start by dropping the master fuel down quite a bit if you're definitely running rich - it's 16 right now so maybe try 8-10 and see if that helps. If you can take some pictures of the injectors or find any kind of part number on them, maybe someone on here might recognize them and be able to help you figure out what they are.

Your Lambda 1 value stays at zero the entire datalog, so something isn't right there. Are you seeing anything on the gauge? When you saved that tune file your Lambda 1 was reading .499 lambda - which should be below the possible analog output value of the AEM X-Series UEGO which is what your calibration is set to. You connected both the white wire and the brown wire for the analog outputs? Certainly in your datalog you had the E-throttle settings enabled, but in the most recent tune file you posted it is shut off. The TPS does need calibration as your TPS main open and closed are both set to 0.45V which can cause issues with too much accel fuel with even some noise on that signal. Your fuel table also looks super rich around the idle areas in my opinion, but I know this is just the base fuel table. You are on stock injectors and all fuel system? I would see if openning the throttle helps as you could just be flooded and fouling the spark plugs at this poing between cranking with no map signal, and change in throttle type may make the values in the fuel table quite different.

Yes if you add the CAN gauge it does have a terminating resistor. I have a car I just installed an AEM x-series wideband and the Link CAN gauge on this week using a single splitter harness and it's working flawlessly. Splitting twice with two splitter harnesses should work just fine. You do have to convert the gauge to 500kbps (Link 500k setting in the gauge setup app). Personally I use the AEM CAN widebands quite a bit and have had zero issues.

Please post a copy of your tune and a PC log. Also post any error messages that come up when you press F12 and then go to the CAN tab. How have you wired in your CAN Lambda? Are there any other devices on the CAN bus besides the CAN Lambda?

I would post a copy of your tune and a PC log file of you attempting the calibration in the software in setup mode, and then a log with it set to ON with some idling/driving to let someone here get some data on your situation.

What file are you attaching here? There's no suffix on the file type to let anyone know what it is. A tune file should end in *.pclx and a log file should end in *.llgx. Ideall you would provide both a PC log of the cold starting (*.llgx file) and a copy of the tune (*.pclx) here so that someone could help you.

You can try re-installing the firmware. I haven't seen this message often, however, and it could be an erroneous message due to a bad connection to the laptop, however. Was it communicating with the laptop fine before now? Have you tried a different laptop or changing which USB port you're using on the laptop? Have you closed the software and reopenned it? Do you have a blue light on the board inside the ecu when the key is on and a check engine light illuminated with the key on? Do you hear the fuel pump prime with key on?

Looking at your log I can only tell you have no lambda set up, and your map sensor isn't plumbed properly as it never changes even with RPM going to 2000+ at one point. When you say now you can't get the engine to turn over - are you saying the starter is no longer spinning the motor (turning it over) or just that it spins but won't fire up? You also say you don't have e-throttle, but you're getting signals in that log for APS main and sub, and TPS main and sub. Pics of your setup, throttle pedal, throttle bodies, etc. may help.

Post a copy of your currnet tune also.

On CAN bus you can wire multiple sensors if you daisy chain or y-split the signals. You could use two CAN SS Harnesses but Link does make a can splitter cable that might work better/cleaner running one leg to each lambda. What problems are you having with the AEM widebands? Are they not CAN based (x-series) widebands? In the CAN settings window you will need to reassign the ID for one of the lambda before plugging both in I believe as they default to position 1. You will also need to add a 120 ohm terminating resistor to one of the legs of the bus (the longer one if one leg is longer).

Would still like a user option to to apply LTT table to the base fuel table and then clear the LTT table.

I recommend the AEM X-Series 30-0310 inline wideband controller with CAN connectivity or the Link CAN Lambda wideband systems.

No, the link base maps are intended to get the car running only which has been accomplished here. Beyond that it will require tuning with a wideband. Some base maps are better than others, but none should be treated as "load it and drive the car" type of maps in my experience.

I'd sell the Storm and upgrade to an Xtreme given the choice.