koracing

What is the part number of your AEM X-series oil pressure gauge?  The bus only needs one 120ohm resistor at the end of the two wire bus.  Along the way you can connect many devices.  See the Help menu in the software --> Wiring Information --> Communication Wiring --> CAN Bus Wiring. 
The settings I have for an AEM X-series oil pressure gauge (I believe there are a couple versions) for one customer is:
CAN Configuration:
Mode: User Defined
Bit Rate: 500kbps
OBD: OFF
Data:
Channel: Receive User Stream 2
Mode: Receive User Stream 2
CAN ID: 656129
Format: Extended
Stream 2:
Add Frame -> Frame 1: 
Frame size: 8
ID Position: None
ID (decimal): n/a
Parameter: CAN An1 - Oil Pressure
Start Position: 0
Width: 16
Byte Order: MS First
Type: Unsigned
Multiplier: 1
Divider: 1
Offset: 0
Analog Input: 
Oil Pressure:
Source: CAN An1
Error: 0.0kpa
Calibration: None
 

"Find Devices" only works for Link CAN devices, not other aftermarket CAN devices.  If your oil pressure is an X-Series AEM gauge you can connect it via CAN as well.  Usually a voltage low error is due to calibration settings on that analog input.

What mods or additional sensors have you added to your car/engine?  I may have a modelled base map I've made for a mostly stock setup you could try also.

Got the MX5 out last weekend.  Addition of the diode solved this issue.

Dead time has the largest affect at idle or in other areas of the map where the effective pulse width or duty cycle is very low as the dead time in these cases will often be much higher than the calculated effective pulse width.  Actual pulse width commanded to the injector is the addition of injector response time aka dead time and calculated effective pulse width.
Usually provided data is not 100% correct unless it was set up with the same ecu (so it has the same driver hardware).  It is very critical also to make sure you have the correct engine displacement data, and injector flow value entered.  You also need to be sure you're setting the dead time for the differential fuel pressure the engine is operating at. 
If you're unsure if your deadtime is correct, and if you want to check it - do the following after warming up the engine fully and having no more warm up enrichment active (or any other active fuel trims ideally):

1. tune idle to run right on lambda target with closed loop off or as close as you can. (for example 1.000 lambda)
2. Change lambda target to 0.9 lambda and see what value the afr goes to.  If dead time is correct - the new lambda value will match target.
At this point if it is not hitting the new target the dead time needs to be corrected.  The following is what I do, and may not be the best way, but has worked well for me:
A. If when changing from 1.0 lambda to 0.9 lambda target the AFR undershoots - does not go all the way down to 0.9 - you have too much dead time and not enough resolution on the VE table.  Reduce dead time and retune the VE table to match target.

B. If when changing from 1.0 lambda to 0.9 lambda target the AFR overshoots - goes past or below 0.9 - you have too little dead time and too much contribution from the VE table.  Increase dead time and retune the VE table to match target.  
Rinse and repeat.
Ideally you will do this at multiple voltages to generate a correct curve, but being able to apply multiple voltages to a car's injectors, ecu, and ignition while it's running isn't something everyone has the ability to do, and in the real world you're usually going to be operating at roughly the same voltage plus or minus a volt 99% of the time, so it's certainly critical at a minimum to get the dead time right at nominal operating voltage.  If you have an adjustable regulator you can also perform this same test at multiple differential pressures to get a good 3D dead time table, it just takes time.
 
Having correct dead time makes all the tuning go quicker afterwards as all changes that are predicted to be needed based on AFR readings will be more accuately applied, as well as all fuel calculations and corrections the ecu is using will be applied to the actual effective injection pulse.
 

On a G4+ car I tuned with a CD7 dash we used the following settings:

Got online with @CodySoFine last night and got it to idle fairly stable.  His IACV seems to bypass a bit more in the fully closed position than excpected, but ultimately turning on the closed loop idle, changing the base position table down quite a bit, and then enabling idle ignition control was able to get the idle pretty stable and the AFR to act pretty stable around idle.

Storm, Xtreme, Fury can all do 12cyl wasted spark and either group or semi-sequential injection. For 12cyl with sequential injection it would have to be the G5 Voodoo Pro which will do 12cyl sequential injection and direct spark.
In terms of PWM fan control the standard fan control setup in Links is switched but you can use a GP PWM which would allow you to setup desired PWM duty cycle on a 3d table.

Yes you should be able to trigger the ground side of a standard relay (Pin 85) and use that to power the pump in standard mode.

Got online with @CodySoFine last night and got it to idle fairly stable.  His IACV seems to bypass a bit more in the fully closed position than excpected, but ultimately turning on the closed loop idle, changing the base position table down quite a bit, and then enabling idle ignition control was able to get the idle pretty stable and the AFR to act pretty stable around idle.

I suppose the difference in trigger could be explained by the different trigger disc you're running versus the OEM 360 tooth oem CAS.  Timing looks correct as far as I can tell unless the crank pulley is somehow off (running a long screwdriver down the #1 plug hole would sort of verify it appears to reach peak height at the same time as the TDC mark).    If it's running pretty well or as good as it can at the trigger settings you have, then it may just be a tuning issue.  Hard to say over the internet, but I would try some big swings on your ignition timing and fueling in the ecu to see if it's happier one way or the other to see if the tune is just way out to lunch.  It's sometimes possible that you're so rich that you get misfire which would register lean on a wideband and could be causing false AFR readings as well. Engines will run on a pretty wide range of AFR so for testing purposes you can get pretty far out before the engine won't run any more.  I am assuming tech support had you go through and click test all injectors and coils already.
If you need help doing this remotely, I would be available most evenings for a brief session to try somethings.  (Pacific standard time zone)

Just to add to this. 
Maybe the option to connect to other ECU's/devices should be relagated to a drop down menu option, rather than prompting you when connecting to ECU. Really slows down workflow. 
Maybe its just coincidence, but since running the latest release it seems like the entire software is running so bloody slow, its infuriating. I'll have to try the steps outlined above to see if I get same behavior, but I've had a crash or two and couple tables bug out on me, as I'm constantly connecting/disconnecting from the ECU.  Normally Link software is bulletproof so this is not great. Please fix!

If all you're wiring up is just the wideband it will work fine without a terminating resistor on the bus, but more than one device on the bus a terminating resistor is obligatory.  On the StormX you'll need the wire-in pins for the CAN connections, or the CANSS expansion harness - CAN H is on B Loom connector pin 27, and CAN L is B Loom Connector Pin 28.
https://linkecu.com/documentation/StormXQuickstartGuideG4X.pdf
https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_4

If you have fuel and have spark, then checking the timing would be the next logical step I would think - I have no idea how that would be done on a rotary.  It's possible that the tune was just VERY far off with whatever leak you had, but one would think it would show some signs of trying to start.

Double check cams didn't skip a tooth?  Had a car just towed in that was running/driving - parked and then did not want to start. Had spark and had fuel and had proper triggers and rpm.  Quick visual once the car showed up in person showed the cams were both off 8 teeth from correct versus crank TDC.  I hypothesized that the customer's sloped driveway was the cause and it possibly rolled backward in a forward gear which is very probable to skip the timing belt if the engine is rotated backward.
Nevermind lol I'm an idiot - Rotary engine right?  No timing belt...

There should only be 7 wires, one of the cavities in the DTM8 has a cavity plug in it.  The colours are pretty much the same with the exception of white/green becoming just green and white/brown becoming just brown. Black is ground, which is the same as the old one.  

No this is an OBD2 protocol device only as far as I know.  OBD2 is a request/response type communication, there isn't data continuously broadcast.  So for example to get lambda from this device, the "Scan tool" needs to first request it, in human language it would look something like this: "hello, Im a scan tool, ECU #6, please send me the current 02 data for sensor #2", the gauge then responds with just a single data point for that specific request and includes confirmation of what device it came from and what it represented.  If you want a continuous stream of data you have to keep requesting it again and again - and you cant make a request until the previous data has been received.
You could probably make it work with user streams by sending out a constant request, but the nature of this protocol is slow, probably less than ~10Hz at a guess so you would be better to use the analog output for connection to an ECU.  The intent of the gauge is to be convenient to log alongside ecu data with an OBD2 based logger like HP tuners etc, it is not designed to send data to an ecu this way.  

Emailed GaugeArt and they confirmed that if you use the "Link 500k" setting when programming the gauge it will convert it to 500k on the iphone app.  Using the plain "Link" option setting will be 1Mbps.

In case anyone needs M7x1.0 bolts - Toyota uses them on camshaft caps on the 3SGTE, lol.

cold/warmup idle 300°C, warm idle 450-500°C as the exhaust is still warm from the previous running

Everyone tunes a little differently , I feel 0.86 at 100kap is far to rich , these cars feel woolly when running those numbers dont spool very quickly.
Totally agree the EGT's are a little worrying pretty easy to add some fuel via the open loop lambda map now the fuelling is pretty close. Just drops the numbers of the lambda/AFR to richen the car up a little and see if it does change the EGTS at all.
As we all know controlling EGT is all about a combination of things. 

Attach a copy of your tune and your dash configuration file and I'm sure someone will be able to help you with it.

*LEGEND* Best comment ever!  I often say something similar when people ask why "I'm making tuning so complicated" by wanting to know all the information about their injectors, engine, and fuel.

Running a richer AFR target will also aid in reducing cylinder and exhaust temps. Typically on pump gas, I target around 12.7 AFR (gasoline scale) or .86 Lambda at 0psi (101kpa MAP) and by 10psi (170kpa MAP) I normally target around between 11.5 AFR or about .78 lambda.  EGT I don't like to see over 850-860°C.  I may be a bit more conservative on my targets than most, but I would rather give up some power in exchange for longevity.
You can pull and inspect your spark plugs also to see if it has evidence of running extra hot.  Just FYI aluminum melts at 1300°F, and it's the intake air and fuel that cools the pistons during the combustion cycle (as well as oil splashed on the back/bottom side).
 

Too many issues there... Notable ones are:
- Trigger errors
- AFR Target Table --- must be rpm vs MAP or MGP.
- Ignition table --- should be rpm vs TPS (since your engine is on ITBs).
- Idle Speed Control --- incomplete setup
- Overrun Fuel Cut --- not setup
- Accel Enrichment --- not setup
- Knock control --- incomplete setup
Sorry but with the way that tuner has so far done things there, I don't think he will do any better. You need to find another tuner...