Dualxeon64

Okay I'll try that. Once I make this change will I need to adjust anything else on the map?

Would the pins for these 2 wires be 2 of the 3 that went to the old iacv?

I have a Ford throttle body eith a 2 wire idle control valve. The stock was a 3 wire and I could not find anything on how to change to a 2 wire. Was hoping to delete or that it would not be needed since the factory iacv delete with my factory ecu did not cause issues. I live in a hot climate which is why I deleted in the past. Is there any documentation on changing to 2 wire from 3 wire?

Here is a log that i could get to upload here. I have a better log but it was to big to upload at 1900Kbs backfire then shutoffLog 2021-07-1 9;55;11 am.7z MR2 FLEX TUNE rev2.pclr

While driving when I push the clutch in the rpm will drop to around 50rpm and sometimes stall. Is there a way to prevent rpm level from going to low?

Replacing the map sensor fixed this issue. Thanks for all your help

No affect actually seemed to make it worse as it would start then die right away.

When I first start my mr2 the idle will go up and down and then stall repeatedly until the temp reaches around 110F then it will just go up and down until around 130F and then it will slowly smooth out. The cold start i normally will start the car after it dies about 6 or 8 times before it will stay running. I am including a log file and the tune please let me know what i have wrong. if nothing then that will help me in checking other mechanical or sensor related. LinkEcu g4 st185 log4232021.zip FullRunningTune.pclr

I am running e85. I expected some lope maybe bounce 50rpm up or down from the center. So 100 span but the current bounce is far more. I'll take my injectors for flow and leak test and see what the results are.

Yes it has big cams. Brian crowder 272s. When I try to lean it out it still stays pegged even tried adjusting fuel pressure. Only changes if I raise the rpm above 2k the it leans out. This leads me to possible injector issues.

Yes it will be plus or minus 50 then it will drop 100 or 200 then come back up and go up plus 100 or 200. Cannot get it to be consistent. At this point there is no sensor or wire I have not replaced or tested. I can run a longer log if that helps. My tuner says with the current idle it is untenable. Here is longer log file, I can clearly hear the idle be consistent then jump and come back or drop and come back. Log 2020-10-3 4;19;24 pm.llg

Here is a picture of the injector information and I included the log as well.

Sorry wrong log here is one from right now Log 2020-10-3 9;13;35 am.llg

I have a linkecu g+4 st185 on a 1991 toyota mr2. I have been trying for over a week now to sort this issue. I have tested my injectors to make sure they are working. I have checked and confirmed stable spark, checked wiring to injectors all seems to be right. I have even tried using only one pump then the other pump to see if its a fuel pump issue. So this is either an issue with an ecu setting or maybe my injectors are not being consistent. Any help to figuring this out would be awesome. I am including my current tune which is not complete because im stuck at the idle issue. I am including a trigger capture it wont let me attach the log says it exceeds file size. newmap.pclr Here is the log file log1.7z

Update new solenoid arrived and I got it connected and it is working. Must be something wrong with the other one. Its brand new I guess shipped faulty. I'll talk to the vendor.

No click with on off, on low frequency. The new solenoid arrives today I'll test with the new one and update the results.

Okay so the test worked on it glowed and off it was it was set to off. When set to pwm it flickered so maybe the solenoid is bad?

I will try that. Should there be power at pin 8 aux3? Right now it shows 12v

No clicking just silence. I thought it might be a faulty solenoid and ordered one just in case but decided to bench test and it seems to function correctly so now I'm just lost.

I have not been able to get this solenoid to work. I benched tested it and it opens and closes like it should. I have 12v to 1 wire and the other wire to pin 8 as the book says to do. I tried putting it in test pwm and nothing. I do note that pin 8 also has 12v to it. For the 91 toyota mr2 st185 is pin 8 correct?

So I have the power connected and the other wire to aux 3 on the ecu pin by what is provided but it shows that the boost solenoid is off. Is pin 8 the correct pin?

Is there anything on the ecu I need to change?

I have a 3 port 2 wire solenoid and I am trying to sort the wiring for this. I have 1 wire to pin 8 for aux3 The other wire does it go to power or to a ground? Or does it go to a di expansion port?

Alright I found the broken wiring. The 2 power wires go into one just under the fuse box in the bay. They where corroded and when I split the harness they separated. Got that fixed and yay my car starts right up.. Thank you guys for all your help on this.

So the 15amp fuse is good. I did note that the efi fuse was super hot to the touch. When i removed it to stop power to the ecu.