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Everything posted by remski2

  1. Have you researched and made a plan before installing it ? From what I see this is a constant-on pump. I'd run this as GP output. "on if rpm above <your idle rpm -100>" with "SwOff Timer" large enough to accomodate your rpm drop. Might want to add batt voltage greater than <your charging voltage (13.Xv?) > as AND Sw Cond 2. (dont forget to measure the draw on your 12v pump activation cirucuit to make sure its within the ECU limits) Hope this helps. Remski
  2. Hi. Seems like you in are in -6.5MGP when the fan is on and -7.3MGP cells when the fan is off. ~44% fuel vs. 47% fuel (from table1)
  3. Link software has a pretty good help section. Give it a try.
  4. Your TP voltage is spiking to 11V at your 110% TP. Most TP systems operate a bit below 5V.
  5. remski2

    Idle Issues

    I'd start with fixing your knock. Seems like its pulling timing left and right. (even when you just rev it) Your DBW is in setup mode.. so not sure if you aware of that. Your IAT might be interfering as its adding fuel pretty much all the time. Raise your Overrun De-activation RPM in the range of oprating temp.. from 1500 say to 1800 see if that help with the dips. Last but not least.. I'd enable Idle ignition. That should help with rpms dropping as well. Hope this helps.
  6. Hi. Your Right AVCS seems to be off target by quite a bit. Could that be causing the AFR discrepancy ?
  7. remski2

    Misfires ECU Temp

    Plz post the map and a log.
  8. Use a clutch switch or change to 2D table where you can be more granualr and use Disarming Speed.
  9. Hi. Your LC is kicking in. Regards.
  10. remski2

    omni 3bar cal table

    This one ? https://www.iapdirect.com/images/T/calibrations.pdf
  11. remski2

    Cranking time

    I am actually in the same boat. (subaru ej257) I've played with multiple starting fuel settings and things never got much better. Hot start in my case is great. Cold start not so.. Thus it would indicate it being fuel related. I've played with Crank Enrich Table from 20 all the way up to ~300. Seemed that there was no change. FYI.. I base my calculations on voltage drop (actual start crank), cam/crank signal sync and when the ecu logs the actual cranking rpm, to the point where it reached 400 rpm and then 1000.
  12. I've been trying to tune my cold start for quite some time. Trying to shave off miliseconds with no luck. I've analized the hot start vs. cold start and seems that there is a different behavior. I do understand that cold start will always require more fuel and will take longer.. but.. When you look at the log, the hot start dwell charge starts at the same time as fuel injection thus an instant start. With cold-er engine fuel injection starts earlier and 1.1 second later the dwell kics in .. why ???
  13. remski2

    Iat Inquiry

    This is my old table.. So in my case it would kick in when IAT was above 104F. If it was a cool day the AFR's would stay pretty much the same and there would be no correction.
  14. remski2

    Iat Inquiry

    I've had the same problem.. IAT correctons would just mess my fueling.. maybe I was removing too much ? I've zero-ed out the high temp correcton and instead of that I am using IAT Ignition Trim 3D table, pulling more timing the hotter the air gets.
  15. remski2

    Iat Inquiry

    You have an IAT correction on. It is pulling fuel all the time as per your 05-27 log. Is this what you refering to? Also .. an FYI.. your fan seems to be on all the time.. and you've reach 212F on your temp..
  16. Looks like your dwell is dropping to 0.4 ms..
  17. Assuming here, you have a 3 port MAC boost solenoid.. You are running at 10% duty cycle and thats where the solenoid starts working.. (10-90% is the range) Try lowering your solenoid frequency so your range starts above 10%.
  18. I'd look into grounding. You mentioned a custom Mil-spec harness. Hopefully you get a diagram so you can verify where the grounds go and if they are clean. Dont forget about the sensor grounds as well.. As far as I know they are not supposed to be grounded. You could run a voltage drop test to check or just run new separate grounds and see if anything changes. Could also be a nicked wire..
  19. You are showing Driven Wheel Speed while at idle. There is a place where there is no Driven Wheel Speed and your idle looks better. Your Gear Ratio Calc indicates that you are in gear and moving. Is the ECU getting confused ?
  20. Get the car to normal operating temperature and adjust your main fuel table so the AFRs are 14 - 14.7 during idle. (make sure all fuel corrections are done) F12 will show you if there are any trims that are on. Then smooth the fuel table back around that area. Next day start the engine and now you can play with your Warm Up Enrichment. At start I have my engine running 13.8 - 14. Adjust your warm up enrichment so it reaches your idle AFRs, once ECT reaches your operating temps. (158 F in your case) HP Academy and Evans Performance Academy are a g
  21. Do you have lambda sensor? There is no AFR info in your log.. so it could be fueling.
  22. Just browsed throught your thread.. Did you sort the valve clearance out ? Also .. since this seems cam related.. I am sure you've checked the buckets for abnormal wear... but have a read anyways.. Cossie cams could come from the same casting plant.. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2642831 I had a set of GSC cams with minor scoring on the buckets. Also did you do the cam break in procedure ?
  23. I have a Motec PDM starting the engine. All the logic is configured in the PDM. Since I have auto-start configured, all the ECU is providing is RPM via can back to the PDM. (so it will stop cranking once a 400 rpm is reached) Same button is used for STOP and ECU is configured to accept Anti-theft CAN message to cut spark and fuel.
  24. Find the documentation on the sensor and enter it into a cal table manually. Here you go. Scaling for 5BAR AEM sensor. https://www.aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2130-75 Sensor Data.pdf
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