zwhitebread

Here is a log. I still had some CPS errors but not nearly as many as i was getting yesterday. https://we.tl/t-NfBvcQISVj

So now this morning I started messing with the car and there are no errors while I am doing anything. I just dont get it. Nothing has changed since yesterday.

Its Cam positions sensor errors. I dont get trigger errors unless I am driving but it doesnt always happen. Would the LH CPS cause a trigger error if it was missing pulses or getting extra pulse since it is Trigger 2? And would this cause the trigger error counter to go up? Here are a couple of trigger scopes. https://we.tl/t-Wf2iMiSGDK I would also like to add that I have retraced all my wiring and I cant find anything that is obviously wrong. I depinned the ground wires from the link and ran new ground wires from the ecu to the block to make sure there wasn't a broken cable or something in the main harness but nothing changed. I also checked the ground wires of everything with the amp clamp and did not find anything there. It there anything else that I should be checking? I'm starting to feel like I have gone over everything at least twice, but I'm sure I am missing something or forgetting something. Side note: I would really like to figure this issue out because I leave for another race this coming Wednesday. Thanks for continuing to put up with me and with helping me try to trouble shoot!

Also I now get CPS errors when I free rev the car.

So I tested the car with the lamdba turned off and it did not work. Also now that I have moved the power for the O2 sensor the issue has gotten worse. What should be my next course of action?

Ah. Now I am onboard. I Will test that and see what happens.

If i turn the internal Lambda control off the Interference goes away.

No problem. Thanks for the thoughts though. I suppose if I can’t figure out the internal wide band I will have to go to a CAN sensor. But I would rather not have to. It’s convenient having the internal one.

I am using the internal Lambda sensor on the Fury. I am not using any factory wiring on the O2 sensor. Just the wideband wires from the link to the sensor and the one power wire.

So even with the Lambda sensor on its own circuit coming directly from the positive on the battery there is still interference as soon as you hook it up. Do you think that I should try adding a suppressor to it?

So I have been playing around with the oscilloscope trying to find stuff and I think that I have found something of interest. There appears to be noise on the LH CPS even when the vehicle isnt running. I started unhooking things till I found what was causing the noise. It appears to be the Lambda sensor. Upon further inspection I found that the Lambda sensor is sharing the same 12v power supply as the Cam sensors power. Do you think that the easiest Solution would be to run a separate 12v power lead to the Lambda sensor? or is there something else I should be doing?

So i went through the ecu ground wires (4 of them) with the amp clamp and there seems to be power only going in the right direction. Is there anything else you would recommend checking? one thing I did find was the crimp of the power cable coming from the alternator to the battery was not very good. It was connected but very loose. I fixed that. I haven’t had a chance to go test since then. But again since I have returned from the race I have had 0 trigger errors. I got it to have some RH CPS errors when I tested the other day. But that’s it.

Thanks for the article. I have an amp clamp coming and I will try that. In the mean time is the voltage on trig 2 supposed to go to 0 after the cam slot goes by? I noticed on a trigger scope I did today that it only went down to .5volts

As I was going back through videos of the race and was thinking about it. The problem got worse as the day went on. If the problem were something like a grounding issue would it make sense that as the vehicle got warmer the problem would get worse? side note: now that I am back home I ran it and got 0 CPS errors and 0 trigger errors. I let it run and sprayed water everywhere to make sure that wasn’t an issue as snow melted that got into the engine bay. I also pulled and moved around the wiring harness everywhere to make sure that i couldn’t find any loose connections. This is really frustrating..... thanks again for any advice.

Yes. Looking back at the log from my last race there was only CPS errors. Now I am getting CPS errors and trigger errors.

So I still had trigger errors at the rally. I tried to shut the VVT off to see if there was electrical noise from the solenoids that were causing it, but that did not work. Do you think filtering it could be a filtering issue? i see that one the setup page for the ez30 it recommends level 2 on trig 1 and trig 2 and mine is set to level 1 on both. What would be your recommendation for the next step in resolving this issue?

I took it out for a test drive and I didn’t have any errors. So hopefully that does the trick. I have a rally coming up this next weekend so I guess that will be the real test.

So I had 2 old school condensers so I wired those in. The RH Inlet sensor looks way better than it did on the scope. The LH inlet sensor does not appear to have changed on the scope, but it appears that the trigger scope from the ecu looks better. What do you think? Here is a link to the scopes. I dont have enough space left to attach to these to this post. https://we.tl/t-e9YeN7iHqa

Also If that is what I should try what style of suppressor do you recommend?

The coils are all oem. The spark plugs have resistors. The coils are grounded to the rear of the block (but at a different location than the ecu grounds). It does not have factory suppressors. Do you think I should get some suppressors as my next step?

After Playing around for a while i would say that the VVT solenoids definitely add noise, but they done seem to be causing the large spikes. 2021-2-12-16-42-15 VVT completely off.PDF

The wiring loom is custom from the ecu to the engine plug, where it retains the factor engine plug. All the engine wiring run through this plug except for the cam sesnors, they all run directly from the ecu to their respective sensors using shielded cabling and no plugs/splices The engine loom has been modified to only use the wiring that is needed. All the Ecu grounds are running through this plug directly to the engine block. The engine block had a 000 wire running from it to the battery.

ok. here is the weird part, with the vvt not locked out the signal looks was better than yesterday. It doesnt have the spikes like it did yesterday.

Here is the LH inlet sensor with the vvt locked out. This is at idle 2021-02-12-04-43-15.pdf

It was taken at idle. I checked it at 3k and it looked similar. The noise never went over 2.4 volts. Is there anything I can do to try to fix the noise?