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ChrisUR

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ChrisUR last won the day on January 11

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  1. Hi Adam, as always you are an absolute genius :-) we modified the cam trigger tooth as pictured above and set the trigger mode to EVO7-9 - and the engine starts and runs perfectly ! it was possible to modify the tooth without removing it, just the cam cover and the first cam bearing cap had to be removed, then a small dremel cutting disc did the job ! I think this might be a good solution for everyone else who faces similar problems with the RVR 4G63T because no additional parts need to be used and after you know what to do the job is done in less than 1 hour. Thank you for your support ! cutting the tooth off without removal of the cam gear: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/adwxevntn86sfemmdi3oo/WhatsApp-Image-2024-01-11-at-10.05.11.jpeg?rlkey=wz7yjesayhk5l02gp7gcaz8yx&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/am5e6l845lkp9a4ot47pd/WhatsApp-Image-2024-01-11-at-10.05.11-1.jpeg?rlkey=9cl374er0qi2atmqjzd9yd475&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ynimahb12bn9no8l6595o/WhatsApp-Image-2024-01-11-at-10.05.11-2.jpeg?rlkey=hcrjeovokhp6o78hh8ciin3ra&dl=0 new trigger scope with EVO7-9 mode and modified tooth: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1gmywyngazhlz815pzwta/Trigger-Scope-Eclipse-GS-T-EVO7-9-RVR.llgx?rlkey=4af88mzornprgw4uhtwcmb66p&dl=0 new log file (not tuned): https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/xg88z91n4earkhg8xhnug/Base-Map-1st-start.llgx?rlkey=dp4k8j03k5suvnvhit5fds7w7&dl=0
  2. after checking the trigger scope again today and compare it to what you wrote in this thread: I checked my crank vs. cam trigger signal to find out if removing one tooth could be the solution for our problem: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ybjnckbu1oznewl0icpnp/Trigger-Scope-Eclipse-GS-T-RVR.jpg?rlkey=j09ug5fpio6h3bnhe41ilgtbf&dl=0 when I did the math correct the long tooth trigger 2 is reasonably enough centered between two falling edges on the trigger 1 (see markings) So when we cut off the shorter tooth at the cam trigger wheel and change configuration from EVO-mode trigger to the following: Multitooth Trigger 1 Type: Optical/Hall Trigger 1 Pull-up: ON Trig 1 Egde: ALL Multi-Tooth Position: Crank Tooth Count: 4 Sync Tooth: 1 Trigger 2 Type: Optical/Hall Trigger 2 Pull-up: ON Trig 2 Edge: Falling Sync Mode: Cam Pulse 1x this should at least enable us to get a constant spark and get the engine running ? before I grind off the cam wheel tooth it would be awesome to have some sort of verification :-) Thank you !
  3. ChrisUR

    G4x can checked mfd15

    we installed many MFD15, 28 and 32 both Gen1 and 2 and they work great ! Just make sure you select the LINKECU.TRI File in the CANCHECKED Setup (on the device). Everything else regarding LINK is well described in the document Adam posted, for the streams you can just open the STREAM1/2/3 files which are supplied by CANCHECKED on their website (download), so you don't have to manually type in the streams by hand.
  4. Hi Adam, I did a bit more research and found out what we have installed definitely in the RVR engine :-) it uses a "special" cam gear which has the 2 long teeth normally found at the back of the engine - there is a sensor behind the cam gear. You can see the setup here: the cam sensor looks as follows: https://www.amazon.de/JUNMO-AUTO-MD300102-Crankshaft-Position-Sensor/dp/B0BKS5SCQC the crank sensor seems to be the same as found on all other 4G63 engines: so now the question is can we use the upper sensor for the cam ? maybe modify it to make it from 2 teeth to 1 tooth by cutting one off ?
  5. ah sorry, of course you are correct, I just looked at the scope again - the trigger 1 has an even signal 0V - 3.66V - 0V but the trigger 2 (cam) starts from 3.66V to zero and up again. So best thing to do would be change the Cam sensor to EVO4-6 (23731W000P) and to make things easier to cut off one of the 2 teeths of the cam sensor trigger. To make it even better a 18-1 Crank Trigger disc (while retaining the stock crank sensor) or a complete 12-1 kit (needs the balancer shaft to be removed) should be installed. I will try to make some pictures for you ! according to the following thread: https://www.lancerregister.com/threads/multi-tooth-trigger-wheels.564178/ it should be possible to remove the cam trigger with the engine being installed. If there would be an easier solution to at least get it running with the current parts (upgrades can be done later if needed) I would be very happy :-)
  6. sorry to comment my own thread again, but meanwhile I did a bit more research and reading and found the following - hopefully someone can verify/approve that my information and conclusions are correct :-) from that other old thread here in the forums I understand that the RVR engine while it is basically the same as EVO3 (besides smaller turbo) it comes with the "newer" style trigger system meaning it has a separate crank and cam trigger like the EVO4-9 engines - the EVO1-3 came with a CAS only at the Cam. While this is good news (separate triggers are always better I think) the RVR engine seems to have a crank trigger sensor which differs from the EVO sensors so it is "inverted" showing high voltage to low voltage (trigger event) - the EVO trigger sensor is from zero to high voltage. Is that correct ? so first thing I could do is buying an EVO trigger sensor like MD320754 so the trigger scope should show the correct behaviour at the crank. then from what I understand people modify their cam trigger from 2 "teeths" (one larger and one smaller) to just 1 teeth (cutting one off) so the ECU knows in which stroke the engine is - but from my understanding this is only necessary when you want to run sequential ignition and injection. In my application I want to stay with the OEM coil pack / wasted spark setup (IGN1 fires Cyl1&4 and IGN2 fires Cyl 2&3). If staying wasted spark will it work with the Cam Trigger as is ? just trying to find out how much work is involved in order to at least get the car running - I'm aware that the ideal solution would be a 12-1 crank trigger like Kiggly Racing and a modified cam trigger and a COP conversion - but that could be done later on when I'm confident that the car is running as it involves a lot of work and money (the engine has to be removed from the car as the new crank trigger requires the balancer delete which requires the oil pump to be removed which requires the oil pan to be removed ...) would be awesome to get some feedback about the above so I know how hard/pricey my route will be :-) Thank you !!
  7. sorry, just read that there is a total file storage per user and that I need to use an external storage :-) have uploaded it to dropbox now :-) https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/gdhoojzeqqdx6wc1gtv8s/h?rlkey=35vrxpmtf7en8wn3g4smlevef&dl=0 by chance I found an older thread here in the forums from someone who also had issues with the RVR engine: I read through the discussion but wonder if it is possible to get the car running with the sensors installed currently by adjusting the trigger setup or if I also need to physically swap sensors ?
  8. Hi, we recently installed a G4X EVO8X into a Mitsubishi Eclipse 2G with an engine swap from 4G63 NA to 4G63T out of a Mitsubishi RVR Hyper Sport R (basically EVO3 / 6bolt engine). After we have converted all the wiring to match the N/A wiring loom to the turbo engine we tried to adjust the trigger offset. When we manually test the ignition outputs (IGN1 and 2 / wasted spark) we have spark on CYL1/4 and CYL 2/3 as it should be. All other pre-start tests have also been carried out succesfully (FP, fuel injectors, TPS, IAT, MAP, BC, etc.) and everything is working fine. But when we start the engine the Trigger 1 is flashing on/off and the RPM is bumping from 230 to zero to 230 to zero etc. Trigger 2 is stable green. In PCLink you can see that the G4X is turning on and off the injectors and ignition, but when we physically check for a spark (spark plug removed and put against ground) no spark occurs, so our ignition timing gun is also not flashing (in order to check the timing marks on the balancer). I set the trigger to EVO1-6 (also tried 7-9 with same result), Pull-Up to ON and Edge to ALL as is it predefined from the EVO1-3 base map. I also played around with the trigger offset but with no change in behaviour. Of course the trigger error count is going up with every on/off of the trigger 1. We then run a trigger scope but it shows a constant signal for both Trigger 1 and 2. All connections to the triggers have been checked (constant 12V voltage, ground and signal wires are all in the correct position and pinout at the ECU). I have attached the trigger scope, a startup log file and the current map, hopefully someone has a suggestion what to look for. Thank you !! Christian unfortunately I have only been able to attach the trigger scope here because the forum says there is a max total size for upload files of 337.61kb ? both log file and map file are larger then this I remember last time I posted a thread here it was possible to upload larger files ? Trigger Scope - 2024-01-5 6;27;03 pm.llgx
  9. Adam, you are such an expert - awesome reply ! Tried it today, first put all Triggers to Falling, did not work, then switched from -353 to 7 offset and it started right away. Tested it for like 7 attempts in a row and it started perfectly (sometimes sooner, sometimes later, but catched up always finally). So I guess my problem is solved :-) Just for my learning, how did you find that the trigger has to be set to falling and why did it work with -353 before and needed to be turned around 360degrees ? Thank you so much ! Christian Toyota-MR2-3S-GTE 430HP.pclx PC Datalog - both triggers falling - cam pulse 1x - offset 7 - started 7 times in a row.llgx PC Datalog - both triggers falling - cam pulse 1x - offset 5 - started 1st attempt.llgx Scope 3 - both triggers falling - cam pulse 1x - offset 7 - started.llgx Scope 2 - both triggers falling - cam pulse 1x - offset -353 - no start.llgx Scope - both triggers falling - cam pulse 1x - offset -353 - no start.llgx PC Datalog - both triggers falling - cam pulse 1x - offset -353 - 5 attempts no start.llgx
  10. We have worked out the following so far: - with Trigger 2 Falling it seems to start better/more reliably - we then set Sync Cam Pulse 1x - with Sync Tooth 1 it doesn't start at all - with Sync Tooth 2-8 it doesn't start either, from Tooth 9 it starts, but not always - We then set the Sync Tooth to 10,11 and 12, so it often starts, but not always Summary for today: - for the first time ever you can now (sometimes) start it with Cam Pulse Sync activated, which was never possible before - When it starts, it runs as smoothly as butter - you can also tell that it now takes a little more time to start because it does the sync (when it starts) - unfortunately it still only starts cleanly a few times and then sometimes not at all In the end, you can finally start it with Cam Sync switched on, but it hasn't changed the overall result, it still doesn't start 100% reliable.
  11. Hi, we struggle with a weird problem for some weeks now and cannot find the issue. The car is a Toyota MR2 SW20 Turbo with 3S-GTE engine - it is running a G4X Plug-in and a RacerX Trigger Kit (36-1 crank and 1 cam, fully sequential) Sporadically the car simply does not start - it turns the starter, the ECU is showing both triggers as active and there is a RPM. We tried to bridge the ignition and injection relay to exclude an electrical problem to the coils or injectors. We ran several logs, it is showing all vital parameters as far as I can see, it builds up fuel pressure etc. The weird thing is that sometimes the cars starts on the first try, sometimes it starts like 6 times in a row but then out of a sudden it does not start. When it is starting it is running perfectly well, does not die and does not have any trigger errors or other issues. But when it does not start it doesnt matter how long you turn the starter, it is not firing up at all. I suspect it has something to do with the trigger but cannot find the mistake we are making here. The only thing I found is that on a similar car (running the same triggers but a G4+) the Trigger 1 is set to "sync mode cam trigger 1x" - if I dial that setting in for the G4X car it does not start at all - never. So my idea is that the car can't sync between cam and crank so doesnt know in which stroke it is - sometimes it is in the right stroke and starts and sometimes it s in the wrong stroke. That said my understanding is obviously too limited to understand why this happens here. I played around with the edge of Trigger 2 (set it to rising, changed to falling - makes no difference) - I also played with the sync tooth (it was set to 1, changed it to 3 - makes no difference). We made a trigger scope and a log when the car doesn't start and also when it does start. I looked at the Trigger scope but it looks quite similar in both cases - maybe I'm missing something here ? This issues is driving us nuts, so I really hope you have an idea or see the issues out of the logs ! Thank you, Christian PC Datalog - no start.llgx PC Datalog - Log no start.llgx Trigger Scope - 2023-11-3 2;18;51 - start.llgx Trigger Scope - 2023-11-3 2;18;51 - no start.llgx Toyota-MR2-3S-GTE 430HP.pclx
  12. having read this interesting topic I wonder what should be the reactivation delay (samples) as found in the G4X software in regards to your update rate and gain control tables ?
  13. thank you both so much for your response, that was indeed the answer I was hoping for :-) Vaughn, I didnt expect so much detail, thank you for digging into this for me. I have played around with the pinout and came up with the following: AUX 1 will stay Wastegate (Boost) Control AUX 2 will be the new Tacho out AUX 3/4 will be the e-throttle out for the external controller for DBW 2 AUX 9/10 will be the e-throttle out for DBW 1 (added cables by LINK directly onto the board) AUX 5 will be the e-throttle relay 1 (not connected, only internal assigned) AUX 6 will be the e-throttle relay 2 out connected to the external controller AUX 7 stays the CE Light Injector 7 stays the fuel pump relay (I do not need FP speed as I will not run the pump on low voltage) An Volt 1 is the internal MAP sensor An Volt 2 will be TPS Main for DBW 1 An Volt 3 will be TPS Sub for DBW 1 An Volt 4 will be TPS Main for DBW 2 An Volt 5 will be TPS Sub for DWB 2 An Volt 6 will be Power Steering Switch analog DI An Volt 7 will be APS Main for the pedal An Volt 8 will be APS Sub for the pedal I tried to avoid having the ECU modifyed so I can keep the safety function with external e-throttle controllers for both DBWs but finally found that in the end I miss one AUX output that I need to assign all functions needed (tacho, boost control, etc.), so I guess this solution would work best. One question in case you are familiar with the 300ZX pinout - Pin 6 and Pin 19 are both saying AUX-Injector 8 --> engine fans - are those two pins really share the same wire / go to the same target point in the engine bay ? Thank you !! greetings from northern Germany :-) Christian
  14. Hi all, after 2 days of research I'm still not confident whether this is possible or not. We are currently building a VG30DETT engine for a Nissan 300ZX. This car has a plenum with 2 throttle bodies connected by a linkage with traditional bowden. We now want to upgrade to 2x 60mm BOSCH DBWs - best case would be to use the G4X Plug-in NS300 in order to keep the stock wiring loom. I understand that we can modify the NS300 to control at least one DBW by sending it to LINK and have the necessary cables added - did that before with a number of ECUs and it worked out great for an MR2 and a Skyline we did recently. I wonder if it would be possible to use this internal DBW upgrade, so connect one DBW directly to the ECU and use the external e-throttle module from LINK to drive the second DBW. The alternative would be of course to use the Thunder but then we would need to make at least an adapter loom for the stock wiring harness and need to move the ecu location as the Thunder is way bigger than the stock ecu housing and of course it would not be stealth anymore which is quite important here to get the car on the street ;-)
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