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Cormac

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  1. @Adamw You were exactly right. Aux 1 was wired to the Solenoid which I confirmed by setting it to Test (PWM). I turned off Aux 8 and now the car is boosting perfect and holding steady at 1 bar. Thank you for the solving this!
  2. Hi @Adamw Thanks for your earlier replies. I have just gotten the car back from getting some paintwork done so did not have the chance to troubleshoot this further until now. I plan to go back to the tuner to diagnose if I can't figure this out, but have checked over the basics and feel it could be something small that was missed when my tuner set up the switchable boost. The behaviour of the boost is still the same as seen in the earlier log of my drive - rises to 0.5 bar and holds steady until around 5k RPM, where it will slowly climb to approximately 0.85 bar before redline. Here is what I have ruled out: Waste gate actuator is fine and not sticking. Removed the boost source from the actuator and went for a careful drive. Boost is coming all the way up to 1.2/1.3 bar and would have kept going had I not backed off. This also rules out a boost leak. Connected the wastegate actuator directly to the boost source on the intake manifold, so it is running wastegate pressure. The boost behaviour is identical. Reaches 0.5bar and then climbs a bit as the RPM gets higher. Now I am suspecting the boost control solenoid, but as you suggested, no issues. I gave one wire 12V and when grounding the other wire, it is audibly clicking. Now I suspect the wiring from the Link ECU to the solenoid. Both pins on the wire are around 12V when ignition is on. I assume one wire would pulse to ground when on boost but don't have a way to test this. So I have ruled out - wastegate actuator, the solenoid, a boost leak and the wiring, but still I have the same issue. Is it possible the Wastegate % duty cycle tables in my screenshots above were created, but never "activated". Is there some setting I can check via PC Link?
  3. Hi Adam, thanks for the reply. I live quite a distance away from the tuner so wanted to see if it could be something simple that I missed before going back. I don't believe there is a boost leak but I will check for this along with the wastegate. The previous boost controller would constantly overshoot the target and hit the MAP limit, hence why I wanted the Link to control boost, as I thought it would do it better. Is there any chance it could be the solenoid itself which is faulty?
  4. Hi All. I recently had the Link G4+ set up by my tuner to control boost in my R32 Skyline with RB20DET. Previous to this I was using an external boost controller but wanted the Link ECU to control all this. My tuner set this up with a High/Low boost switch (as I previously had Hi/Lo mode in the boost controller) and that appears to be all wired in correctly as the ECU is detecting the switch being on or off, and I can see two separate Wastegate Duty cycle tables. My problem is this - I have a mechanical boost gauge in the car, and since getting the car back from the tune, the boost level seems to be the same regardless of the boost mode. I even disconnected the wiring harness from the Solenoid and the car didn't feel much different. The car makes about 0.5bar boost up until around 5k RPM when it will climb to almost 1 bar boost. Previously, with the boost controller, it would pull hard up to 1.1 bar at around 4.5k RPM and would maintain this. I'd appreciate if someone can take a look at my map, a log of a short drive and some screenshots from the ECU settings. The first 2 minutes was with the car on low boost mode, then I switched it to High boost for the remainder of the drive, then stopped logging. It might be just I'm not reading the boost gauge properly as I'm trying to drive at the same time - but the car feels somewhat the same in both modes. Thanks! Log of drive is attached here. Had to zip it due to size. R32 Skyline Hi Low boost log.7z Base map attached here. Base Map R32 skyline.pclr
  5. That's a good question, and it's something I was wondering myself. I bought the car with this setup and the tuner I brought the car to is actually the same guy who set it all up. Unfortunately I forgot to ask him about this. Do you know if there is a reason why he wouldn't use the ECU to control boost? The boost controller is set up to have a high and low boost mode and displays the boost as well, so maybe that's its purpose? I know you can do this with the Link ECU as well, but would need to have a tablet connected up or some other type of display.
  6. That's great thank you. I actually remember my tuner saying he had trouble keeping the boost at the set limit with the boost controller last year. It's a Gizzmo boost controller. I'm not sure if this issue would be caused by the boost controller itself or just a symptom of something else like the wastegate getting stuck and not opening. Either way it looks like I need to go back to basics and check over the boost control system. One last question - where is the MAP sensor usually mounted? I have had a good look around the engine bay but I can't see it. However there are two vacuum hoses going through the firewall on the passenger side. Could the MAP be mounted inside the car near the ECU?
  7. Thanks for the reply Vaughan. I was just about to post another log file that I captured a few minutes ago. This one is shorter and I managed to generate the symptom twice at the end of the run, at about 2:28 minutes and again at 2:38 minutes. I'll attach it here for the sake of it. Can you explain the MAP limit to me? Is this something my tuner has set as a protection, or is it the limit of the MAP itself? As far as I understand, the MAP limit is in absolute pressure so 235kPa = 2.35 Bar. So I must be hitting boost pressure of (2.35 bar minus 1.013 bar) = approx 1.34 bar of boost pressure to be triggering the MAP limit? I've rechecked the boost controller, it has a target of 1.14 bar. Skyline fuel cut log file 2.llg
  8. Hi All, second time posting about my R32 Skyline with RB20DET on this forum. I just took the car out of storage for the Summer and I've noticed that some type of fuel cut/ power cut / boost cut has developed which wasn't there last year. The boost controller has a high and low boost mode. This issue has only happened in high boost mode (target 1.1 bar). - Foot down about 50-60% in 2nd or 3rd gear - When I get to around 5-6k rpm, the car hits what I can only describe as a fuel cut / rpm limit. A red light flashes once on the dash and the car loses all power. You can feel it fairly violently like the car hits a wall. - This doesn't happen every time I hit this RPM, but I would say the harder you drive the more likely it is to happen. Ignition system is in good condition with the plugs not long replaced. Car was fully checked over by my tuner last August. I see no fault codes logged. The only thing that changed over the Winter storage period was that I changed the timing belt, pulleys and water pump. I have attached a log file of my drive to this post. The issue only happened once in this 11.5 minute log, at approximately 11 minutes (the very last RPM spike on the graph). Would appreciate any suggestions on what's happening here. I've had to zip up the log file as its just over 2.55MB at 2.66MB. Skyline fuel cut log file.7z
  9. Just reporting back to close this out. I eventually went back to the original tuner to get the idling problem checked out. It turns out that it was running too lean on idle. All the other components checked out (IACV etc), so he added more fuel to the idle region as you suggested Adam. Also he changed the behaviour when pushing in the clutch and coming to a stop. The revs now stay at 1200 rpm for a few seconds before stabilising around 950 rpm. This has stopped the cutting out issue when stopping. The idle is also much more stable in general. Thanks for the help along the way
  10. It was the previous owner that had them flow tested. So I only have a receipt that says they were flow tested and cleaned. No figures on the flow numbers. I can take a closer look at the injectors later this evening and see if I can get any information on them. All I have to go off at the moment is a spec sheet that says they are 560cc. I guess if they are really 800cc, that would explain why the pulse width is so low. Injectors might be just too big for my setup?
  11. Thanks. I'll avoid tweaking the injector PW at idle myself since. I understand it would be safer to let a tuner do this with feedback on the mixture/lambda. I'll give you some further information on the setup just in case it gives you any idea as to a potential problem on the fuel side of things. The car was initially tuned with this setup in March 2017 and hasn't been altered since (previous owner). The car made 330 HP (282 HP at the wheels) at ~15.6 psi. The injectors are 560cc with an R32 GT-R fuel pump. It has a stock Fuel Pressure Regulator. The car was mapped and is run on 95 RON fuel which is the only widely available fuel here. The injectors were flow tested and cleaned before being installed in the car before tuning. I haven't noticed any issues with how the car runs otherwise, no breaking up / misfire under load or full boost etc. I don't have any current plans to make any changes to the power level, just trying to sort out the annoying Idle issue
  12. Hi Adam, Thanks a lot. I will download this base map and try it when I next get a chance. Just a couple of questions, 1) I noticed that there doesn't seem to be a lambda sensor anywhere in my exhaust system and you noted that there is none connected. Is it ok to run the engine without one? I was surprised myself when I couldn't find it. 2) I understand the pulsewidth of the injector refers to how long it stays open. Could I try increasing this? 3) When you say problems with injectors or fuel, could that be an issue with the physical components themselves or just the tune? Thanks again.
  13. Hi, apologies for the delayed response. It took some time to get a tuning cable and go for a test drive. Unfortunately I couldn't recreate the issue on the test drive, due it being intermittent. However I did manage to sort of re-create the issue by turning on and off the headlights when idling. I am attaching three log files. 1) Test drive log. 2) Base map from my ECU. 3) Shorter log of turning on and off headlights. There also seems to be one fault code logged on my ECU - "ECU Fault Code 46: An Temp 2 above Error High value". Thanks for the help! R32 Test Drive Log File.llg r32 base map.pclr R32 Log turning headlights on and off.llg
  14. Hi All, I currently own an R32 Skyline with RB20DET engine and a Link G4+ ECU. The car intermittently has problems idling and sometimes will cut out. Firstly, apologies if any of my questions seem basic. I am new to the world of aftermarket ECUs so my knowledge is limited. The car sometimes has an erratic idle, when hot or cold. It will fall to almost 0 rpm before rising back up to ~1200 rpm before falling back down to idle, or sometimes cutting out. The issue is more apparent when coming to a stop and pressing the clutch. It also seems to happen more frequently when turning the steering wheel and coming to a stop, or when using the rear window demister and A/C. I believe this is due to these systems requiring more engine power to run, and the idle suffers as a result. A search on google suggests that the Idle Air Control Valve gets gummed up on these engine, and requires a clean out, and then a reset of the idle. I did this yesterday and installed with a brand new gasket. However it did not make a difference. What was even more unusual is that the position of the adjustment screw on the IACV doesn't make any difference to idle speed at all. So my questions is this - is the IACV used by the G4+ ECU to control the idle? Or is another method used altogether? I'd appreciate any suggestions on this issue! Cheers
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