Kanjo`

I used a22 . This is the thread that I followed.

You can use either a21 or a22 from what I read through the forum . I am using a22 just to have them in the same row . Maybe do a continuity test to see if the a21 wire is ok with no damage .

So I did a quick 2nd gear pull with vtec off and on . I cant upload the logs but some info is the following : NO VTEC @6751 0mgp Target lambda 0.85 I have 0.575 , Injector DC 54.6% VTEC @6783 -1 mgp Target Lambda 0.85 I have 0.767 , Injector DC 53.7% . So I believe that the cam is working (regardless of the adjustments that are needed) .Also if I remove the vacuum line from the fpr without blocking it will that help eliminate if it's the intake or the fpr causing issues ? Could this be a result of the fuel upgrade ? Like I am -8AN Feed and -6AN return . If not will have to see what will happen with the exhaust.

Thank you Adam . I believe in terms of timing I am correct as I used the locking tools and also on ignition timing I should be good as I have locked the timing to 286 deg (using coils) . So I will double check the intake/tb just in case and then move on .

Thank you Adam . I know that the intake should be ok as I believe that I have good vaccum at idle and if I put my hand in front of the TB to block it the engine stalls . So that might mean a cam maybe ? Also (maybe dump question) but stock headers and OEM cat wouldn't cause these issues ? Like I have a 68mm tb with an Edelbrock Victor X manifold on it .

Is it possible that I am having this issue due to me tuning only 1 table for fuel and 1 for ignition and ot dual map for fuel and ignition ?

I can feel the difference of the vtec engaging (besides the noise chnage) . I have tried to turn it off and test it and it's a pretty obvious difference .unfortunately for the time being I found not have access to a dyno and everything is on the road . That is the reason that I am sceptical of the injectors . Except if they are externally OEM but they have done some mods to them . Are there any suggestions to look at ? Will swapping over injectors be any benefit as I have a set of rdx injectors that I might try and see how they perform .

Thank you Adam , see the thing is that as I increase and go to the high cam I have a dip . I have uploaded some hits and you might be able to see what I mean . Like the end result is anything but sooth . Now could the exhaust being stock headers and cat still on be any reason ? I have around 170 psi at all 4 cylinders if that is anything to take under consideration . vtec.llg test1.llg

I am having a really weird issue with tuning a Link PNP Honda OBD1 ecu . The car is fairly stock and in the cruise area its requesting more fuel that it does at wot . It is really weird and do not know how to properly explain it so I have attched the tune after all the adjustments have been done (have not tested it yet) I can not upload the logs that I have only the tune but you should be able to see what I mean Tune mods : B18C with shorter custom gears completely stock besides intake manifold , cai and 68mm tb , -8 feed line , -6 return line , fpr stock injectors , 320 aem fuel pump . P.S Have played around with the dead time and have similar results . TIA old tune test.pclr

Glad you sorted it out . Maybe you should look into the T1 trigger kit if you want to upgrade to something newer . The dizzy works well the only thing I also did was since it was apart and still the OEM dizzy the wires were exposed so I depinned the plug and used heat shrink on each wire so they do not touch each other .

Is this applicable also on N/A vehicles , to give it a try ?!

Thanks for the inputs . See I was thinking of changing the setting on the iat table and see cause once I set 40 deg at -2.5 it gets a lot better . So maybe I have to set that correctly and alter my 0 point to 30 deg (I think that is what Adam was trying to see . I just want to the right steps in the whole learning process

thanks Remski2 for the info , Will check the fans 1st thing tomorrow . See the thing I am asking yes I see that it is pulling fuel as it should but shouln't I still get similar numbers regardless of IAT due to the compensation ? What I mean is that lets say at 3000rpm at -60kpa if I target lambda 1 shouldnt when the iat increases/decreases stay roughly the same due the iat compensation ? Since if its getting hotter its pulling fuel trying to reach lambda 1

I believe that I am suffering from heat soak as when I am parked fro a little bit I see the IAT going up to +10 degress from when I am driving . I have uploaded 2 logs (VTECtest3+ and cruise test)one that were done before the whole corona virus and I believe that was kinda ok , I know some adjstuments had to be done especially on lift off , which I was planning on doing but started running lean and the one I did today (log 2020-05-27). I have attached as well my tune . TIA vtechtest3+.llg Honda Civic 92-95 G4+ NA Coils.pclr Log 2020-05-27 7;55;41 pm.llg cruise test.llg

The car is Honda civic with a b18c engine obd1 Link PnP I have uploaded the base map . Did all the necessary configurations to run cop , checked timing and adjusted it . I am using pump 100 octane (Europe) and stock injectors as my car is fairly stock besides gear ratios and a intake manifold and throttle body . I am also using the obd1 honda iat sensor which is on the actual intake manifold (planning to go on the cai piping once my new engine is finished) Rrob I think I checked injector deadtimes but cant remember 100% (have been chasing a lot of stuff) Adam I will post a log file once I in front of my computer . But where I am coming from is I am road tuning the car with Iat on . I thought the purpose of the iat compensation is to reduce fuel when its hotter lets say 40/50deg C but still achieve the same lambda target as if it was for example 20/30 defense where it will not be cutting fuel . Am I correct on that thought ?

Currently I am not in front of my pc to see your log but it most likely be your aem epm . I have the same car and engine but I am using oem dizzy as my trigger . Took it apart removed the internal coil and just kept the triggers .

Forgot to mention at the moment I am using traditional. I want to go later to modelled , once I am familiar with traditional

So I am experimenting with my own car to learn how to tune and hopefully develop . I am currently road tuning my car and have all compensation off except iat . I have a roughly 36 to 43 deg C IAT and have set up my iat according to the help file and the HPA course meaning 20C is 0 and every 10 deg over I reduce 2.5 deg meaning 30 would be -2.5 , 40deg would be -5 and so on . I am finding my car leaning out almost as much as the compensation is . So my question is if my fuel map and mybiat map was correct shouldn't I still have the same lambda ? Like at 3000rpm and -60kpa my target is lambda 1 and I am reaching lambda 1.07 . Shouldn't I still have lambda 1 ?! TIA

Thank you Adam . So make a Virtual Aux as GP Output and set the according conditions ? Do I need to wire anything to it as the schematics do not show a pin out (nnob question) ? Also I have only used all the An volt even from the expansion harness as I have Fuel Pressure an volt 4 , oil pressure an volt 5 and an volt 6 is my rotary switch for the launch control . Could it be possible the connect the an volt 6 to 2 rotary switches with different resistances or will there be a confusion (which I believe it will happen) ? Lastly , since the car is FWD should I use only the front wheels as inputs or 1 driven and 1 undriven wheel as inputs ? I have the oem abs system on the vehicle so I assume I have to connect the power from 1 abs sensor to the appropriate input , correct ?

Hello everyone , I have a Honda OBD 1 PNP ECU and want to enable the Gear shift and Traction Control Feautures . I have a rotary switch for the launch control set up and I was thinking of using the same for the traction control but I have the options of 2 only maps and the use of a DI / AUX / AUX Fuel / AUX Ign options . I was thinking of using AUX Fuel#5 (AUX INj #5) and setting it up as a GP output . Does that seem correct ? Also there a way to have 3 setting instead of 2 ?Lastly the activation switch has to be wired seperately ? Like how will my rotary switch give the signal for on/off , since it has 1 input and I just connect +5V and Ground ? Also for the Gear Shift I was thinking of using the Brake switch (wire it to DI 2) so when I hit the brakes I can downshift but I am not so sure what to do with the upshift . I am not sure as well as what function to set them up either . TIA

Sorry to highjack this topic . So if we have the element and the load cell , would there be anything else needed ? Like an external controller or amplifier similar to what we do with an egt module ? Also what would be a good scale load cell in terms of ability of weight 1KG , 10KG ? Thank you