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Manfred

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  1. Like
    Manfred reacted to Patrick Olsen in Subaru Legacy w/EZ30D swap & V88   
    I've been registered here for a while, but as a reflection of my progress on my project , I haven't actually done anything on the site.
    I have a '97 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT, which has done daily driver / auto-cross / track day duty for me since I bought it in 2000.

    The late '90s 2.5GTs were non-turbo, with the DOHC 2.5L EJ25D rated at 165/162 hp/tq.  Over the years, I did a variety of modifications to the original EJ25D - ported heads, reground cams, header, etc - that resulted in a significant bump in power, to something around what a stock 2.0L WRX puts down.  Yes, I realize many would think that was a poor ROI compared to just doing a turbo swap, but I've never had any desire to go the turbo route (note the license plate in the above pic).
     
    However, more power is more better, so at some point I started thinking about swapping in the EZ30 6-cylinder from the Outback. Initially I was planning to use the 2nd generation EZ30, commonly called the EZ30R, which was offered starting in '05 in the US. Rated @ ~245bhp, DBW throttle body, variable intake cam timing and lift, blah blah blah. I picked up a very lightly used EZ30R years ago and was intending to swap that in the car. Since the 30R uses a CAN-bus type ECU with an Immobilizer, it's very challenging to use the factory ECU (I've only ever seen discussion of 1 person successfully accomplishing that), so I picked up a Vipec V88 to run the engine.
     
    4 years ago, I was still running an EJ25D, planning to do the 6-cylinder swap "some day". Then I managed to hydro-lock the EJ25D , and suddenly it seemed like it was time to do the H6 swap. Unfortunately, I had run into some issues getting the 30R cylinder heads worked on by a shop, so the first H6 I had purchased wasn't ready to go. I came across a great deal on a used 1st generation EZ30, commonly called the EZ30D, so I bought that and rebuilt it. The 30D doesn't have the fancy variable cams, is drive by cable, and is only rated 212hp.

    So, I proceeded with the swap, and mechanically pretty much got things done as of 2-1/2 years ago:

     
    I had spoken with a Vipec dealer / tuner here in the US about installing & tuning the ECU for me - he was only a few hours away, so it would've been quite convenient. Unfortunately, by the time I finished all of the mechanical stuff, and then had to pack all of my stuff and relocate due to a change in duty station, he was no longer in the Vipec business. Well... damn. Thus began the long, stagnant period, during which I ignored the thing and hoped that the wiring harnesses would magically merge on their own. That has still not happened , so I might actually have to do it myself!
     
    I've gone through the Subaru engine harness wiring diagram and created a nice Excel spreadsheet of everything. I had sourced a complete main dash harness from an '01 Outback; I've culled that down to just the connectors that plug into the engine harness, each with long pigtails for merging purposes.

    Now I just need to figure out matching up the EZ30D pinouts to the V88 pinouts, some of which is pretty obvious, but other stuff I need to do some homework. And then I need to actually merge the harnesses, something I've never undertaken before. At my current pace, I'm reasonably certain I will have the project completed at some point this century, maybe even this decade.
  2. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in 2005 WRX STI XS Loom Wiring Questions   
    If its a road car that will be fine.  If it is a race car that runs full load for significant periods of time then it would probably be better to move it further down stream.  
  3. Like
    Manfred reacted to BoyofBeef in 1JZ VVTi Novice adjustments. (Crackle and pops)   
    I know this is becoming a bit of a blogpost, but I've managed to get it to work flawlessly now.
    This is just for anyone that is interested in getting a few pops and bangs on a gearchange/downshift without having fuel cut off all of the time, and, with some overlapping 4D and fuel cut ignition tables.

    Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, simply a novice that is taking a bit of interest.


    Above are my settings for this.
    Cutting the long story even longer:
    The fuel cut is on, but it takes 2 seconds to initiate because of the "activation delay" parameter.
    Within these 2 seconds, we want the 4D Ign table to take over, but only for these 2 seconds, and then we want to return to "Normal over-run fuel cut timing" after these 2 seconds are over.
    This is activated by Virtual aux 1.
    Virtual aux 1 is "On" when: MAP > 40kPa & Timer 1 <= 2 Seconds & ECT > 70 Degrees C

    We have Timer 1 on virtual aux 2 that activates when TPS%<8 (Same as fuel-cut)
    We have Timer 1 set to 3 seconds (3 seconds is arbitrary, as long as it is >2 seconds, we are okay)

    The 2 seconds on the timer are important, as we don't want any overlap (Although I'm not sure if it would make any difference when there is no fuel being injected). Once the timer is above 2 seconds, the "Pops and bangs" in the 4D table switch off, and the overrun fuel cut takes over.
    It is also important to have the polarity for the timer as "Reset on Off/On edge", as we want the 4D to only activate when we take our foot off the throttle. The "Off/on edge" means that the timer resets when VA2 starts.

    Below is the time plot for this, which should explain it better than I can on how this works. (Please note, pops and bangs 4D is called "Chav mode").


    Shout out to @koracingand @VaughanI've learned a hell of a lot from this, so I appreciate all of your support.

    Kind regards,

    Beefy
  4. Like
    Manfred reacted to SkyEyes in 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S   
    Just recently got it back up and running on a Monsoon-X! 
    It was my first time building an entire harness and getting everything set-up with minimal help. It has been a great experience so far, and the car is already running better than on its previous standalone!
    Can’t say enough about the support offered here by both staff and other members. Hope to keep on learning!


  5. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Warchild in Base SUbaru V7 ej207 ignition table safety   
    Base map is not very safe, too much timing, attached a safe timing map fro you

  6. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in Base SUbaru V7 ej207 ignition table safety   
    Im not sure how relevant this is, but here is the ignition table from our V11 JDM STI test car.  EJ207, quad VVT.  Dead stock, 98octane RON pump gas.  Most of the cells that it runs in are steady state tuned and it doesnt take much more timing than this, its a couple of degress away from knock when IAT creeps up.  It runs 240kpa boost up to about 5500 then tapers away to 220kpa at the top end due to running out of injector.  
    All of the parts that are meant to be inside the engine have managed to stay inside so far.  

  7. Haha
    Manfred reacted to remski2 in SR20 LOSES POWER   
    Hi.
    Log3
    From what I see you are hitting a rpm limit (fuel cut) thus going lean around 7K rpm. 
    First instance you going lean around 6600, log shows you are still on the throttle. (could be the way its logged)
    Next I've noticed your voltage drops from 14.5 down to 13.8.. Not terrible but odd. (pulley slipping perhaps ?) 
     

     
    Log4
    You are hitting 15.7V during idle.. Thats a bit too high.
    You hitting fuel cut for some reason.. 
    First cut is due to rpm limit which you seem to hit quite often. But I cant tell why the 2nd cut is kicking in...
    There is also Ignition correction at that time and I dont see where its coming from. (6.5 table vs 1.5)
     
    Hope this helps

     
    Ha ha.. 
    Found it ... 
     
    You have speed limit enabled !!!!

  8. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems   
    Go back to basic's.  Unplug the expansion loom.  Get a little jumper wire or paperclip etc and short the DI7 or 8 pin to the 5V pin that is in exp 2 connector - does your DI then show active?  
  9. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems   
    The “e-throttle “ refers to whether the ecu is capable of controlling an ethrottle system or not.  Older ecu’s (more than about 3years old) didn’t have the aux 9and 10 outputs on the expansion connector which are required to drive e-throttle.  All V7-9 cars are cable throttle from the factory as far as I know.  
  10. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems   
    The labels on the board are correct 
  11. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in How to transmit CAN data from AIM to link ECU   
    Ok, try these.  The ECU should receive parameter "Lambda 1" and "Lambda 1 Temp" from the dash.
    MXm with lambda transmit.zconfig 1_SubaruWRXSTIV8JF1GDBLH33G045680 with lambda.pclr
  12. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in How to transmit CAN data from AIM to link ECU   
    Are you sure you were using the right config file before?  Because I already had the CAN output set up correctly in the config I attached above.

  13. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in STi DBC to DBW conversion   
    Are you checking the revision number on the bottom "Adapter board"  as per pic below.  The top board may maybe V1.5 which is current, I think the bottom boards are up to V1.8 now

  14. Thanks
    Manfred reacted to Adamw in STi DBC to DBW conversion   
    Yes, provided you have a WRX9+ ecu revision 1.7 or later you will have DI10 available of pin A3.
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