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Hotrock

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Posts posted by Hotrock

  1. 7 minutes ago, remski2 said:

    Well.. one thing comes to mind if it was running correctly and seems lean besides the fuel is that you have a leak in your exhaust allowing air in and messing up your AFRs.

    2nd thing I noticed is that your fuel table is stays flat during your run.

    From 4900 to 6600 its pretty much flat at 51.5 - 52. 

    I'd think it should increase as 4000 to 4700 there is a jump from 41 to 50.

     You injecting anything like meth ?

    I've just been under the car to do the lambda sensor and checked the full exhaust system which was all good with no leaks.  Not running any meth, just normal pump fuel. I have no idea about the fuel tables being flat, but am going to order a gauge and check the fuel pressure asap and report back.  Many thanks..

  2. Appreciate the input and help! The car has been like this since Novemeber and when I called my tuner he got me booked in for Feb 2020. Then came covid 19.... I have spoken to him and he is hopeful for getting me in Septemeber 2020 now! I wont take it to anyone else as he bulit the car (taking it from 280bhp to just under 600bhp) and I trust him. Im a chef by trade and have no work for the forseeable future so am stuck at home working on a few projects, one of which is fixing my Evo!!  

    Your right, I dont want to keep throwing money at new parts and not find the answers. After Adam mentioned the Lambda was broken and was not giving any reading I replaced it in the hope it may shed some light. Its a link Can Lambda and I could not get the same bosch sensor that came off (as it is discontinued), so I called bosch and they gave me the replacement part number which I ordered and fitted. I have not calibrated it as I beleived it was just plug and play, do I need to calibrate it? 

    I am not a mechanic or tuner and this is first time I have ever even looked at an ECU log file. Never needed to before, but am learning as I go. From what you guys are saying I should give up and take it to  my tuner and tbh, I could not agree more and wish I could! ATM I have a load of free time, a garage full of tools and the ambition to learn and fix this myself . You are 100% right again, I have probably not done all the basics including a fuel pressure test. If that is the next step in diagnostic I will order a gauge and get it fitted...  Tell me what to do and ill try it, and if it turns out to be beyond my means then I will gracefully retire and wait till Septemeber.

    Hell, Im happy to pay for this support if I can get to the bottom of the problem and fix it. One thing is for sure, the problem has got better since I have been tinkering about. As I said, I have replaced the plugs and gapped correctly, replaced coil packs, built a home made boost leak test kit (watching youtube) and found several boost leaks which I have fixed. One small leak on the throttle body still remains that I am waiting for a shaft seal to arrive to fix that.  I also found out I had a burnt out fuse/ relay to the hard wired fuel pump, I have also now fixed and replaced this.  The car is 100% running better now and even more so since fitting back the lambda sensor, but as you can see it still has a cut/ misfire problem (but not as bad). Low boost mode at 500bhp runs perfectly now, no cut at all. It is also cutting alot less than it was which shows I may be getting close to the issue.

    I really dont think its a tuning problem, it has been running great for years and then one day this problem suddenly happened. A car does not just suddenly untune itself as far as I know, and I have not added any new parts, so I think something has just gone wrong. From what you guys are saying it appears to be running lean? This is progress and Im happy that a problem has now been highlighted. This gives me something to investigate and work with. Thanks again for taking a look and your input. Any and all ideas are welcome..  Perhhaps the throttle body boost leak seal will solve the problem when the part finally arrives lol, or may be Ill need a new fuel pump.  Either way im up for battling on a bit more, after all Novemeber is a long way away..

    Thanks again..

     

  3. Hi

    Please help, My Can Lambda is not working which I think is causing my problem (see my other thread "over run fuel cut").  If you look at my log you can see it just cycles back to initialising and does not actually kick in and work. Instead it throws up error code 46 and 48 which by the manual says ipe over voltage and ape over voltage.  What does this mean, I need a new bosch sensor?  The wiring is bad? The modual has failed? 

    Where can I begin to fix this error, any help is much appreciated. 

    Thanks

     

  4. Hi All

    Still not got to see my tuner and now stuck at home with nothing to do, so trying again to fix the car.

    Does anyone have any idea of how I can see the AFRs and fuels pressure on my log? I just found out the fuse had completley melted on my fuel pump relay, which is making me think my problem could be a fueling problem. I have put a new relay and fuse holder on to the 450lph hard wired walbro fuel pump, and it performs better but is still surging at higher boost. The pump is whinning (but don`t they all) a bit louder than usual since I rewired it.

     I have cured all boost leaks, changed coil packs, leads, and spark plugs. Before I order a new pump is there anything I can check on my log or activate and record a new log?  Just want to be sure before spending more money...

    thanks again..

  5. I see the drop but not 100% sure what it is. When driving with the air-conditioning on every so often I feel a very slight drop in power and rpm goes down just for a millisecond. As soon as I turn off the air conditioning it works fine. It's always done this since I had the Link G4 fitted.

    Not sure this is the problem. How do I check map sensor?

    On 2/25/2020 at 4:47 PM, remski2 said:

    Your map voltage jumps in volts.. This being it only shows 1 digit instead of 3.

    There is no 1.05 or 2.55.. its just either 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5

     

     

    2020-02-25 11_46_21-.png

    Next.. your voltage drops from 14 to 13v multiple times.. 

    Is your electrical system OK ? 

    2020-02-25 11_55_05-PCLink Engine Management.png

     

    4 minutes ago, remski2 said:

    did you look into what I said about MAP sensor ?

     

  6. Thanks for looking. I see what you are saying. As far as I know the electrical system works fine but I'm up for checking everything!

    Recently I have replaced the coil packs and plugs ( just to be sure), and have taken apart the waste gate and rechecked for boost leaks, but all is ok.

    I can hear something clicking on and off under the bonnet, I don't know what this is but comes from near the firewall and intake manifold, sounds electrical..

    Could it be anything to do with a sensor?? Where should I begin to check now..

    Running out of ideas. Car runs fine on low boost, it's only when pushed it gives problems (so on higher boost).

    If it were electrical would this not happen all the time?

    Thanks for your help...

  7. 6 minutes ago, Monsterbishi said:

    The first order of business is to test the components you have, there's no point in getting out the Visa card until you know whether something actually needs replacing.

    What is the Wideband/Lambda value doing immediately prior to when the issue presents itself?

    Im not sure how to check that?  But looking to learn how to diagnose the fault. My tuner is busy until the end of April so I'm attempting to fix it myself. I have no previous experience with with looking at. ECU logs, which is why I posted up my log file here to see if anyone can help me read them. I just had Can lambda fitted last year, and car has been running very smooth until now. Can you take a look at my logs as I do not have a clue what I'm looking for?

    Many thanks...

  8. You sound very certain it's a misfire! So far I have replaced the spark plugs, tomorrow I need to buy new coil packs at a cost of £100. If it's not the coil packs or spark plugs what next?

    24 minutes ago, Monsterbishi said:

    There's not much point in even looking at what your boost controller is showing until you sort out where the misfire is coming from, test all the ignition components and then work from there, have you determined whether it is one specific cylinder that is misfiring?

     

     

  9. 2 hours ago, Monsterbishi said:

    I'd look at the plug gap first, what did you gap them to when you installed them?

    There are a lot of parts manuals out there that wrongly specify a plug that has a 1.1mm/0.043" gap - it should be between 0.7mm/0.028" to 0.8mm/0.032"

    We used to run 29psi through our 4g63 powered Mirage with a 0.8mm gap.

    New plugs put in gapped to. 0.5mm as specified by the tuner. Unfortunately still getting same problem. Car is running just under 600bhp when it works.

    What to try next, could it be coil packs? Here's another video of the error. The boost controller is hard to read (bouncy recording) but it looks like it is not holding boost and jumping erraticly. Thanks for your help.

     

  10. 5 hours ago, Monsterbishi said:

    Looks like it's blowing out the candles, as it were - what happens when you dial the boost down?

    It runs fine if I put the boost on low! I have new plugs but not coil packs. One other thing I have just noticed is it does not fire on all cylinders when I first start the engine, but a minute later its working fine. This has only happened twice so far.

    Thanks for your help..

    3 hours ago, Adamw said:

    What you have is a misfire.  I dont see any clues in the log that the ECU is causing it. 

    You are probably going to have to visit a tuner for some diagnosis, Your lambda is not working so there are not many clues for us to help from.  It could be fuel related or ignition related but that covers a huge range of possibilities, so you really need someone with some experience and test gear to eliminate some of these possibilities and narrow it down.

    Have you done the basics such as pulled the plugs out to check all electrodes are still there?  Fuel pressure?  Reduce plug gap?

    I changed the plugs recently, but not pulled them to check, will do today. I do not know how to measure fuel pressure, never done this before. I will certainly check the gapping on the plugs though and thinking of getting some new coil packs?

    Thanks

    Rob

  11. On 2/14/2020 at 9:42 PM, cj said:

    So at 27 seconds and at 38 seconds you are only at about 40% throttle. Does that line up? You mention replacing the TPS, and we do see some points of 100% TPS in your log, but its worth asking. If you were foot on the floor, the ECU isnt seeing that.

    What does the config on your boost controller look like? Does it have any logs? The only point in the log where there *might* be signs of power loss before you get off the gas pedal is at about 31.5 seconds. I say might, because boost drops off at the same data point where the TPS drops from 100% to 99%. Normally this would just be noise and suggest boost dropped before the throttle, but you go right to 0% tps after this, and its only recording every 0.1 ish of a second so we cant see which came first very definitively.

    Hi CJ

    Here is a new log. Put my foot full to the floor for about 2 seconds, really worried about damaging the turbo or engine. This time it still does not boost properly, just seems to surge a bit. I also have the video from inside the car so I will post this up as well. The main event happens at between 3.40 and 3.50. Can you tell anything from the log?

    Thanks again.

    Log 2020-02-18 10;40;32 pm.llg

  12. Hi CJ

    I will run the test again tomorrow and post up the log. This time I will hold my foot flat to the floor for 5 seconds and then release. I'm sure that will then show the power loss I am experiencing with the throttle at 100% TPS.

    Unfortunately the boost controller is a greddy bspec 2 and does not record logs.

    Thanks for your help..

    2 hours ago, cj said:

    So at 27 seconds and at 38 seconds you are only at about 40% throttle. Does that line up? You mention replacing the TPS, and we do see some points of 100% TPS in your log, but its worth asking. If you were foot on the floor, the ECU isnt seeing that.

    What does the config on your boost controller look like? Does it have any logs? The only point in the log where there *might* be signs of power loss before you get off the gas pedal is at about 31.5 seconds. I say might, because boost drops off at the same data point where the TPS drops from 100% to 99%. Normally this would just be noise and suggest boost dropped before the throttle, but you go right to 0% tps after this, and its only recording every 0.1 ish of a second so we cant see which came first very definitively.

    2/13/2020 at 3:42 PM, Babych44 said:

     

     

  13. Hi CJ,

    Thanks for looking. So what's happening is the wastegate sounds like it is opening early and the car looses power immediately. When this happens my reaction is to take my foot off the throttle as it feels like something has gone wrong with the engine. The boost will come back on almost immediately and the car will start to pull again until again it reaches a certain level of boost and then the same will happen.  To make this happen I have to put my foot too the floor or 3/4 way down and it happen a second or so later.

    On the bit you highlighted it has already occured just before.

    In the graph above the boost cut is felt at 27, 32, and 38 seconds approx ( at the peak on the green rpm graph). I did it three times on purpose to record a log. As soon as it happens I probable also released the throttle. If I keep my foot to the floor the boost would surge off and on violently and does not feel good for the engine and this is not shown on the log.

    I have a separate boost controller with solenoid, I'm now wondering if that could be the problem or a worn waste gate?

    Thanks again

     

     

     

    On 2/11/2020 at 7:28 PM, Adamw said:

    There is no boost cut in your log.  There is only one area in the first 1 minute when you have 100% throttle (for only 0.5seconds), in that area it reaches 5700RPM and 28psi boost so it appears to be doing everything it should be.  

    Are you sure you are looking at the same log file?

     

    5 hours ago, cj said:

    image.png.5f4f555481f3b10a3534b6967312dd45.pngDo you mean this bit here just after you get back on the accelerator? Can you describe a bit more what you were doing when this problem happened so we have something to correlate with the log file. Eg was it just before or just after you changed gear? was it immediately after you pressed the gas pedal or was it a a few seconds later? 

    Did you have your foot hard to the floor when this problem happened or only 1/3 ish. 

     

     

    Thanks, it's not the clutch. Just had it replaced and know exactly what you mean by slipping clutch. It has a brand new twin plate in it. You can here the waste gate chatter and the boost cut when it happens...

    The same happens when it hits the map limit set at 8000rpm, it just cuts to prevent damage.

  14. 1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    There is no boost cut in your log.  There is only one area in the first 1 minute when you have 100% throttle (for only 0.5seconds), in that area it reaches 5700RPM and 28psi boost so it appears to be doing everything it should be.  

    Are you sure you are looking at the same log file?

    Hi Adam,

    Thanks for looking, as you can probably tell a complete beginner at this. One thing is for sure, the car definitely cuts boost or fuel on its own and this definitely occurs at just before 30 seconds, then again just after 30 seconds, and then lastly at just before 40 seconds. It can be seen as a drop in rpm on the engine speed navigator window, and also as described above.

    I'm sure I uploaded the correct log, should be just over 3 mins long.

    That's all I know. If it's not the ECU that is cutting boost, I guess it must be a faulty part such as waste gate or boost controller?

    Thanks again for your help..

  15. 2 hours ago, Adamw said:

    I think you might be mixing up a couple of things.  Over-run fuel cut only occurs when you lift-off/coast with the throttle closed to save fuel.  This occurs regularly in your log but only with the throttle closed and will never never happen on boost.

    This is not a boost cut or any other limiter action showing in your log.

    What is the actual problem that you are experiencing?

    Hi Adam,

    What I'm getting is immediate loss of power when I put my foot down. The waste gate is opening early which cuts the boost and feels like I hit a wall. Trying to work out what is causing it and if the ECU has any data that could help diagnose it.

    When I only put my put down half way the car boosts as normal, it's only on full full boost it sounds like the wastegate opening. Could be a faulty waste gate I guess. Just wondering if that would be confirmed in any way on the ECU? Thanks again...

     

     

  16. Hi

    I have an evo 6 which has been running fine at 580bhp until recently I have started to experience boost cut/fuel cut. My tuner is very busy at the moment and so i have started to try and solve the problem myself. At first I found the tps sensor was faulty and had left errors on the ECU, so i changed it and recalibrated, but still getting boost cut although errors are gone. I then checked for boost leaks and found a few minor leaks around the BOV and one of the boost hoses. These are now fixed but I am still getting fuel cut.  I have a separate boost greddy b spec 2 boost controller and CAN lambda installed.

    Is there any way to tell from the ecu what the problem is? I have recorded a log file while the fault occurs and it flashes on Limits flags word and over run fuel cut when the fault occurs. There are no ECU fault codes. Can any one help. Do I need to post my map or is the error log enough?

    Thanks for anyone who has the time to help..

    Log 2020-02-10 6;12;55 pm.llg

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