AN7

Coming back to this, I double checked today cam timing and sure it was off by 1 tooth on the intake and the exhaust. Intake retarded exhaust advanced Wtf I checked back then i am wondering. Timed it correctly and now my readings are matching the manual. So 1 tooth is 16°

Hm, interesting. Do the new G4X ECUs support that out of the box?

Yea yea, everything runs fine and quite impressed how it follows the target.

As I was going through the manual today I just noticed that there were known values for vvt trigger offset that for some reason I hadn't seen before and I had the offset set up the manual way, with the cam angle test. The manual says 87degrees offset but mine was between 102.8-103.1 consistent and checked it again. The cam timing was checked when I was starting the tuning of the car and it was correct(mostly). I know that the head was skimmed slightly just to get the surface right at the time of the engine build, and that was just about visible on the cam gears as they were just a -hair- off of the marks(not even close to half tooth). but 25° isn't too much to be from this? What I want to ask, before I start digging deeper in the engine, from what spec car were the values you got? (ie. ADM, '03 1.8) so to check if there could be differences in stock cam timing or different cams

ok, so I am leaving it as I already have it. Thanks I was just curious because switching it to ohms just to see whats going on, I saw the readings pretty close together

G4 storm There is a cam trigger but its a weird one, i am already running sequential with the original trigger setup (4tooth crank wheel).

Sorry for Resurecting an old thread, As I have a miata with similar engine setup(1.8 vvt and sequential spark with cops) I was planning to go to 36-2 trigger wheel for better crank position resolution. So this is a no go without additional Triger?

Hey guys, Recently I wired in a bosch dual oil pressure and temperature sensor. --- Bosch PST-F1 --- As I'm already using the temp 1 + 2 with the internal pullups, I wired the temp signal of the sensor to Anvolt2 with 1/2w 1kohm pullup resistor to 5v of the ecu. My question now is, in the calibration do I go with calculated volt output or with the ohm calibration table straight out of bosch manual? (bosch suggests 4.7kohm pullup)

Hello guys. I have a question regarding the knock control of a Link G4 storm(not plus); in the PC Link G4 software there is an option for knock control, which I am assuming that is done by using an external module. Was ever a Link produced module? Are there any recommendations for a module that is compatible with the ecu? Or don't waste my time and money and get a new/newer ecu that has build in knock control?

So, I changed the wiring based on the diagram and with your inputs(i didnt try the aux I went full send :p) and everything is working fine as I can tell. So its time to tune this thing. Thanks again for your help and your time

I ll do that and I ll keep you posted. Thanks a lot for your help

Thanks for the tips. As far as I checked I dont have any of the accessories that are hot fed. The only aux that I see connected(and managed by the link) are VVT solenoid (12v feed from ignition coil) ISC Solenoid (12V feed from egnition coil) Ignition Relay coil(As I told you before this relay feed 12v to coils, injectors, solenoid, and 12v sensors) Fuel Relay Coil Engine Fan Relay coil Engine Fan HS Relay coil Non of those are hot wired When I ll have more time I ll try to check again

First of all, thanks for your reply. On the issue now, I didnt know that the diode could cause that issue, but I did try that(to remove the diode) and it turns out that they put it there because without it, after turning the ignition key off, because of flow back(I assume) it wouldn't disengage the ignition relay(which also powers sensors/solenoids etc) and the car shut down because of fuel starvation( and to be honest I never checked if the volt issue was fixed with the removal of the diode). So from what I understand, either way I have to get a different source of power to either the hot side of the coils of the relays(I use the same coil feed for the ignition/fan/hs fan relays) or the ecu. In general the wiring on the car is a bit sketchy(i.e they have bypassed the main engine relay) but I want to try to avoid doing the whole wiring for now.

ok.. I think I got it. All this time I was focused on the grounds and the power to the accessories but never tried to move the power of the ECU. As you saw in the schematic, the same line that powers the ECU(from ignition switch of the key) its also powering the "hot" side of the relay coils for the accessories. As last try to figure this out, I got the ECU power connected directly to the battery I got a very little flowback from the solenoids. Before when engaging both solenoids from 12.3v(engine off) to ~15v instantly(when engine running add ~+2v) now from 12.3, when engaging the solenoids it fluctuated between 12.31-12.32. Thats some progress but yet it has a bit of flowback that I think it may be acceptable(?)

Hello there, I have a miata '01(nb2 vvt) that I bought used and I am trying to sort some things out. The previous owner told that there is a ground issue with the ECU that needs to be shorted but he didnt have time to get on that. So I am trying to figure out what the hell is going on. its not a plug in ECU, with a custom wiring loom. I checked the harness wire by wire and there is no shortage or anything weird going on and ecu grounds ok. The weird thing is that what he thought as a ground problem, after all is that when the idle control valve or the vvt are operating, the ECU reads elevated voltage that progressively goes 17+v(and fluctuating) depending on their duty cycle. As I understand there is a flowback voltage from the solenoids(?) but I cannot figure out why. If I turn them off, everything is back fine and the ECU reads steady voltage. Are there any suggestions on this? I am afraid that even if I start making the entire engine loom from the beginning I ll face the same issue edit: attached you will find the schematic of the wiring.