Paschalis

Adam just saw your response in fb, thanks

Hope will be solved soon

Exactly and you can't even quote a message

Thanks a lot for helping out...hopefully it will be seen, realized, checked and fixed soon....

As soon as I put the li nk in I get a "you ve been blocked " message from the page:( First time ever...I ve been using this site since my lemg3:)

Hi all I ve got a plugin g4x installed and wired on a 3sge engine with an ethrottle, everything works nice (injector test ok, ignition test ok, ethrottle (aps and tps) both fine) The thing is although it shows injectors and ignitions active during cranking, also I've got from 150-300rpm showing all the time during cranking, trigger 1 and trigger 2 showing active and trigger error goes maximum to 3, it doesnt start. I m attaching my config file in case somebody finds my mistake....thanks a lot for your time Currently no matter what I ve tried I couldnt upload any file from the "add files" button with a server error coming up, so koracing helped me (thanks again) and will upload it for me. Regards

My thoughts were the same, just to be on the safe side:) Thanks, I ll give it a shot tomorrow!!

Finally got in my hands one of these https://www.se.com/ww/en/product/XS608B1PAL2/inductive-proximity-sensors-xs-inductive-sensor-xs6-m8-l51mm-stainless-sn2-5-mm-12-48-vdc-cable-2-m/ So how do we connect the 3 wires? I guess brown(+) to a 12v switched one of course, but the negative blue goes normally to the sensor ground and black which is the signal goes to the digital input? Or there is no need for ground since it's a type of switch ? Near the middle of the link page is the witing scheme. Thanks a lot

Good to know! So now I can choose one with the same specs available here locally because this specific one is not available! 4 studs heads are enough?

Tried this with the VEMS converter for some months now, wrking fine but the thing is ABS check light comes on often:( So willing to buy a hall effect sensor and mount it behind the wheel hub so as to count the 4 bolt heads, I guess it will be enough, now after a little research I'm finding hundreds of hall effect sensors...what am I supposed to watch for? There are some refer the frequency used but I guess it's their max limit? Something like 2500hz or 5000hz or even 500hz...Have you got anything to propose that's already tested? Thanks

I ll get into it...lots of lots of reading lately:) I still dont understand if I m in the right direction, do I set it to have steady boost everywhere firstly open loop, then closed loop (I mean the max boost) and then when have it perfect I ll just cut down in low gears via boost by gear?

I ll get into this guide right away. Whole idea is to make wastegate DC% (as setting the idle control procedure) to be as close needed to reach the boost target so as to need as little corrections as possible so as to have the same boost from low to high rpm? And after this is successful, to have it balanced between gears, lower boost for 1st and 2nd (for better traction) and high boost for 3rd,4th and 5th and lower again for 6th?

Hi all Attached my tun file and 4 log files Tried after lots of reading and downloading lots of logs and tun files from others to set a good start point, I think I've made it, can you please check My only issue now is that if I increase only 5% the wastegate dc, it overshoots at 1.7-1.8 although with 55% it goes at 1.3-1.4 steadily. Also in general, the point is to "fabricate" as higher boost as possible with the help of the stages at lower rpm and to lower the dc at higher rpm, so decrease the boost at higher gears?? My next step will be to set boost by gears this is why I m asking...what's the ideal scenario? It's a street car if it matters, little street racing. Till now I was working with a Greddy profec and my idea was having 1.2 bar boost till 3rd gear and then with the wireless button of it switch to high boost at 1.6-1.7 bar during driving, wrong or right? But I guess link boost control will help with making boost at a lower rpm. I don't know if I will make a dual table setup with a digital but I'll see how it works having all the boost available all time:) Thanks a lot g4pcopnewdead-boostlinkforum.pclr Log 2020-11-18 2;21;34 pm1stboost.llg Log 2020-11-18 2;21;34 pm2ndboost.llg Log 2020-11-18 2;21;34 pm3rdboostover.llg Log 2020-11-18 2;21;34 pm4thboost.llg

Now that today I ve achieved precise and correct wheel speed, let s get back to business:) So I ll have my gears "learnt" tomorrow, also I maybe have my boost control from the ecu instead of having to push the greddy button on higher gears for full boost, although I dont know if I like the idea to always have full boost at high gears, I ll see about this(I know another DI to enable 2nd wastegate table, but then what's the point? ) ! Ecu doesnt always know the road ahead:) On the other hand if I ve read correctly boost control is able for better control of the solenoid to have faster spool in low gears but needs a lot of work I thing with the "stages"! We ll talk about this later:) Now about launch control, done it with the virtual aux so tps>80% and speed=0 BUT isn't the case to make it have a progressive rpm limit at different speed? For example 4500rpm at 0, 5500 at 20, 6000 at 30....something like this? Can somebody give a hint for values for a turbo fwd car? It has lots of modes with advanced control, so kind of lost in there:) And it's a "pain for the car" to test all these settings! It's going to be used in street racing so better traction is the goal here but also a little boost to come in earlier is welcome. I feel that 4500 or 5000 is the sweet spot having the experience of all these years streets racing and also. It s a normal street car, just highly tuned with around 300hp but without lsd. Shall I upload my file? Thanks g4pcopnewdead&dwell.pclr

Finally it was the pin3 (reset) that after all needed to be connected to GND too, maybe this is a change in the last version of theirs!! I dont know but seems to be working flawlessly now!