Jump to content

Paschalis

Members
  • Content Count

    57
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Paschalis

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I ll get into it...lots of lots of reading lately:) I still dont understand if I m in the right direction, do I set it to have steady boost everywhere firstly open loop, then closed loop (I mean the max boost) and then when have it perfect I ll just cut down in low gears via boost by gear?
  2. I ll get into this guide right away. Whole idea is to make wastegate DC% (as setting the idle control procedure) to be as close needed to reach the boost target so as to need as little corrections as possible so as to have the same boost from low to high rpm? And after this is successful, to have it balanced between gears, lower boost for 1st and 2nd (for better traction) and high boost for 3rd,4th and 5th and lower again for 6th?
  3. Hi all Attached my tun file and 4 log files Tried after lots of reading and downloading lots of logs and tun files from others to set a good start point, I think I've made it, can you please check My only issue now is that if I increase only 5% the wastegate dc, it overshoots at 1.7-1.8 although with 55% it goes at 1.3-1.4 steadily. Also in general, the point is to "fabricate" as higher boost as possible with the help of the stages at lower rpm and to lower the dc at higher rpm, so decrease the boost at higher gears?? My next step will be to set boost by gears this is why I
  4. Now that today I ve achieved precise and correct wheel speed, let s get back to business:) So I ll have my gears "learnt" tomorrow, also I maybe have my boost control from the ecu instead of having to push the greddy button on higher gears for full boost, although I dont know if I like the idea to always have full boost at high gears, I ll see about this(I know another DI to enable 2nd wastegate table, but then what's the point? ) ! Ecu doesnt always know the road ahead:) On the other hand if I ve read correctly boost control is able for better control of the solenoid to have faster spoo
  5. Finally it was the pin3 (reset) that after all needed to be connected to GND too, maybe this is a change in the last version of theirs!! I dont know but seems to be working flawlessly now!
  6. How can I easily check if grounded with a multimeter? And if indeed isn't grounded then this means that vems won't ever work? If this was the case, would the max9926 work as it does? If link ecu would be happy with high freq now I would be ready:) Tomorrow I ll have a scope and a multimeter to check what is going on...what do I need to measure?
  7. Hi again Just ordered and received a new vems one to rule out any possibility (although in the end I damaged the original one, anyways) and it's working whenever it likes! If it works, it shows the speed just fine with /8 division and a filter of 390, I ve already soldered-blobbed the lower threshold mode 1 (>=150mv) although this iwas not a problem when working. They ve also sent me three tripletes of 470ohm, 4.7k and 2k7 to use somewhere for sensitivity but where should I use them? One more thing i ve tried and saw that it s not a matter of my sensor or abs system in general is
  8. It s all a matter of the vems converter. Even with a new abs sensor which is working fine with the other circuit I ve got with the max9926 ic, it's not working with the vems one. As soon as I "squeeze" the vems in my hands it's working fine for a few mins after I leave it again, I even used its 9 pin with a calibration on the digital at 380 and everything is fine but just for a few mins then I need to "press" again so it comes back again. I tried to "wire" directly the ecu cables (5v, gnd and DI) to the back of the female connector pins in case there was something wrong with the pins, still sa
  9. I ve measured with a multimeter in dc mv and in ac and both give measurements when turning the wheel by hand, so I must make the converter a little more sensitive, have you got any clue?
  10. Things are like this Following wiring diagram of the car, if I connect GND to VR- and VR signal in to VR+ then I ll get no signal no matter at what speed. Connecting the other way GND to VR+ etc around I m getting noise when just starting the car and I also get the ABS check light on immediately. So 1st way is the correct one. Also tried with the change of mode with the silderblob to make the arming threshold at >=150mv, still no signal. I ve used the 1:1 output just to be on the safe side picking up any signal. The other circuit I ve tested was a vr conditioner using m
  11. So that was the reason for the noise...nowhere noted...anyways...tomorrow will test it this way and I ll get back...thanks for the continued support...hope to get to the bottom of it and get a speed signal after all! Thanks again!
  12. So the GND and the VR signal in on the male connector side (first connector on the photo above) is the input for both wires of the sensor?!?!?!?
  13. GND next to the vr signal in on the male connector is common to the pin 5 on the other side and bith need to be grounded on ecu sensor ground, correct? Or is it the other wire of the abs vr sensor as needed both of the abs sensor wires in the max9926 circuit?
  14. The vems one is too much sensitive so maybe even reads noise or something with the car sitting still at idle and this one I ve tried today which uses the max9926 ic starts to read frequency at around 50kph... What more can I try, have you got any clue?
  15. The module I ll try will do the vr to hall convertting only and after successful testing with the DI on the ecu (I know it will exceed the 500hz frequency of the ecu but at least I ll be able to test 0kph when still and up to 20kph maybe?) If everything goes well then I ll use your circuit using the output signal of the module I ll test so as to cut/divide the frequency down. Correct?
×
×
  • Create New...