ellisd1984

You've got a target Lambda of 0.8 and your actual lambda is 0.92 at those points so you're really lean everywhere from what I can see.

There's a actual boost limit based on ect in the bost control section

"Retune"

I think it's a full returned of the fuel tables. I went from one to the other when I upgraded injectors to save having to tune the fuel twice

Thanks after a bit of digging I found a file on the realdash Github that looked to have multiple frames. I modified that and got that to work. It's different to how yours is written but I guess as long as it works. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kHnUgLmLcg6R4XGSydKIrhcsS68Cr83p/view?usp=sharing Thanks for the reply

I've managed to get the info I want on my head unit thanks to everyone's input. Can someone tell me if there's a more efficient way that transmitting 4 separate streams? Could I use 4 frames on a single stream instead? https://drive.google.com/file/d/141cesBVlWx8eUJoZSgaIwjsi1tdECZQ2/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y__cLXQc-5Ougz59itlM5pIlt3gcUk-t/view?usp=sharing

Sounds like you need a refund off your old tuner and use that money on a new tuner

Search for "spec 55" on places like mouser, Farnell, rs

I was watching this on YouTube and it seems relatively easy concept. HHowwood ypu be able to set this up in the G4X?

Knock Control is definitely on, I've got the same plug in ecu

Thanks Adam , that clears things up

Hi Hopefully this one will e relatively quick. To someone confirm off the 5 grounds on the ST205X which ones would go to the engine and which ones are sensor grounds? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xdWj-UbhhMPSc3X8XG5zAbv-KnnFkmKk/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gih1FLBDfTcnUts056UyOD-5Fou44Tzf/view?usp=share_link Are the 5v and Sensor grounds on the expansion loom brought from the same source as the main ECU pins? or is there a second feed? From what I've read I'm ok converting the Toyota speed sensor to a 5v feed. Would I then need to ground this to sensor ground instead of the existing arrangement that grounds to the engine/chassis? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XXLfIiY6CALhFM9O9uj5lvV56Ht0b1_4/view?usp=share_link

OK, what I've done is to adjust the fuel properties of Fuel table 2 too hopefully represent the highest blend I'll use (50/50 petrol methanol mix). I've used the output from the ethanol sensor at this point to run off Fuel table 2 100% and the more petrol that is in the blend the closer I will go to Fuel Table 1 settings. Presumably for a 50/50 mix the fuel properties for both fuels would just be halved and added together. I know in theory with all these values set there shouldn't be a real need for the 2nd VE table but I will make any further adjustments in that table as and when they are needed. I just didn't want to make all the adjustment in the VE table. I can also log some points and see what fuel temp does to effect the Lambda value.

If I was to keep everything as is would it still inject the correct amount of methanol in using the modeled fuel equation? For example 50%meth equals around 70% eth on the sensor. I can set the second fuel table to be 100% active at a reading of 70% eth content(blend 100%) My question is what properties will I need to put on for the second fuel? Do I put the 100%methanol numbers? And if I do will it overfuel because its trying to inject 70% instead of 50% because that's what the sensor is seeing

I'm Talking more for the sensor's calibration itself not the blend tables

As above, is there any way to alter the calibration of the ethanol content sensor? I'm wanting to use it on methanol so it gives different output frequencies for fuel percentages

The ECUmaster CAN transmit streams are pretty much locked from what I can see. All ypu can alter is the baseID and which frames of the 6 to send. I've got some CAN AN channels spare. Is it a case of just assigning them to free GP analog inputs, labelling them say "rad fan current" and then messing with the calibration to get the values to match? Something like 50a = 5v and 10a =1v

Is there any way to bring in output current data from a PMU16 over CAN? When I look at the possible receive channels I can oonly see analogue voltages, di status, frequency & TC temp.

I was trying to avoid DI's as I'd ran out but I've managed to juggle things about. I can now have them both on DIs making the lights I currently wired in do what I want. As the power steering pump isn't from this car there isn't a power steering light on the dash so I'm wanting to flash the CEL and ABS light together if their's a PS fault. Half the issue was I couldn't figure out the virtual aux system, I couldn't find their parameters.

Hi Adam, yes they are doing as they should by lighting up on Power on but that was what confused me. Anything I would think to try in setting up would just trigger a fault on start up. Both warning lights switch to ground to activate and take the 12v from the gauge cluster.

Hi, I've tried messing on with some settings and I've managed to massively confused myself! What I'm wanting to do is add the warning outputs of my power steering and ABS ecus into the mix so they can all turn the check engine light on if there's a fault. I was thinking about using an Ana input and 2 different sized resistors to give different values. All I've managed to do is fry my suede through as the light light up for a few seconds on startup.

Perfect, one less thing to have to keep a fuse for!

Hopefully just a quick one. II'm rewiring my car and moving alot of stuff onto a pdm. However, the stock ecu used to have both a permanent 12v feed and a switched 12v feed on a separate fuses. Does the st205x pluging require this permanent feed, or is it happy just using a switched feed from the pdm? The manual shows both being used but not sure if it's required.

I should probably add I didn't have the stock idle up valve which was probably causing the issues. From what I can tell the Link doesn't get the "AC Activate" signal from the AC button when you push it. It get the signal from the the feed leaving the AC amplifier that activates the clutch. If you've got the stock Idle up valve then there is no issue as the AC button Activates the Idle up valve, rev's increase, clutch engages the same time as the Link get the AC signal. If the idle up valve isn't there, the Link doesn't get the signal until the clutch engages so it has no time to stop the engine stumbling.