Harry buscema
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Posts posted by Harry buscema
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On 1/29/2024 at 12:42 AM, Adamw said:
Is it a skyline plug-in ecu or a white/green LEM box? Can you get a photo of the ecu with the lid off?
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Looking into buying a second hand link g1 for a rb20det, would this ecu also be compatible with rb25det engines or only rb20det,
thank
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Yep thanks for all the help, having multiple clutch switches ment that Di 7 wouldn’t work, i couldn’t get Di 8 to work at all no mater what I tryed, ended up switching to Di 10 which worked as intended,
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3 hours ago, Confused said:
If you've got the same function assigned to two pins things can get a bit weird when you're looking at the result. So, if you're trying to use DI8, change DI7 to a different function.
Ok I’ll try that next, thanks
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
I would bridge direct to the ground pin in the expansion connector with a paperclip or similar to rule out the ground and wire.
Hi Adam, I’ve tryed your suggestion, I’ve linked photos of what the connecter looks like, so I’ve connected brown to green and di8 still shows as off, never goes active, I’ve placed a multimeter in between and it down 9.7v so it’s definitely grounding on the green cable
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17 minutes ago, Adamw said:
I would bridge direct to the ground pin in the expansion connector with a paperclip or similar to rule out the ground and wire.
Sweet ok I’ll try that thanks
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50 minutes ago, Adamw said:
That should work. So you are just touching the DI8 and ground wire on the expansion loom together? What function is the DI set to?
Have it set as just clutch switch, yep just holding to a ground bolt on the car to test it,
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On 5/11/2023 at 5:16 PM, Adamw said:
You likely have DI7/8/9/10 on the expansion connectors. DI6 can be used but it would 12V from the switch.
Hi Adam, I’ve recently bought the expansion cable, a setup Di 8 with the settings, Off - ON - Low -Rising. Seeing a 10v output on the cable but Di 8 isn’t being activated when the cable is grounded. Any thoughts? Thanks
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17 hours ago, Adamw said:
DI 6 has a pull-down on it to work with the factory AC switch. DI10 should work provided you have a V1.6 or later bottom board. The non-ethrottle boards didnt have DI10.
I see I see, any recommendations of which ports I can use for another 2 on-off switch’s?, I have a non-e throttle board.
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I’m using a evolink 4-8 and trying to hook switches up to DI 5-6-10 which are all next to each other, DI 5 works fine and outputs 12v with the settings pullup- ON / On level - low
but I’ve wired DI 6 - 10 the same as 5 but can’t seem to get a 12v out to the switch,
thanks
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On 4/27/2023 at 12:16 AM, k4nnon said:
Looks like they may have gotten the posting issues fixed so heres the link to the photos of how i set up my antilag stuff..
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=share_link
ow wow that's cool, can you explain to me how this system works? thanks
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10 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Has it been tuned? Looks like not enough fuel. The RPM starts to drop when the post start enrichment fades out, then you blip the throttle so it gets a big dose of accel enrichment which brings it right for a second or two, then RPM drops again as the extra fuel is consumed.
If it has been tuned and used to idle ok then that would suggest fuel flow has been lost for some reason.
thanks for the replay Adam, are was tuned about 2 years ago out of my ownership, its always had this start up issue from memory
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Just looking for some help with tuning my cold start, engine is forged run on normal 98 fuel (here in nz),
car start fine but rpm starts to fall followed by a large jump in rpm, it will do this on loop until the car drops to low and dies.
I might of messed up the logging as I haven't done this in a while, let me know if you need anything else,
Thanks
Harry
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On 9/25/2020 at 3:15 PM, Vaughan said:
You don't appear to have an ISC valve setup and so are only using ignition idle to control the idle speed.
Looks like it's not dropping below the Idle Ignition RPM Lockout and so the ignition idle control never pulls the ignition angle (and as a result engine speed) down. Maybe try reducing the ignition table values in the idle area of the table.
thank for the reply Vaughan, would you be able to give me an example of how much i should be reducing from the ignition table? thanks
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16 hours ago, Adamw said:
Attach your tune and a log. It is likely your base position is wrong and therefore pushing the idle above the lockout so idle control never kicks in.
thanks for the reply Adam, i have just attached my logs, at around 3:20 is where the idle is high, thanks for all the help
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Hi there,
Having trouble figuring out why when my car is above 77c my idle kicks up to 1.9k rpm from the target idle of 1.1k rpm. Is there any specific setting that I should be changing that would effect the idle depending on temperature? Thanks
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Hi team,
Wanting to setup a more aggressive rev limiter(flames and bangs) than stock.
I guessing if you use ignition cut you would loose all power mid drift.
If anyone could give me advice on what sort of setting would achieve this that would be great, thanks
My setup:
Link g4+ plug and play
Forged Sr20det
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5 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Have a watch of this: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPs2lkrwpgggRX9CiX?e=mfpBlD
Wow thanks that was really helpful, understand what your talking about now. I'll give that a go and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
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2 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Did it have a hi/low boost switch connected to DI6? In your tune it looks like it has been set up for two boost levels switched by DI6, but there is nothing assigned to DI6. In your log it shows DI6 was "on" which means it was using the high boost map and that high boost DC table doesnt look well set up.
Oh wow I dident even pick up on that. Is they anyway I can manual changed it back to the low boost map?
Thanks
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2 hours ago, Rob W said:
Post your tune file mate
think I've done so, please let me know if that's the wrong file. thanks
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recently bought a S14 with a forged Sr20 engine and external waste gate setup.
The MAP Kpa is reaching its limit at around 4.5k rpm as shown in the log.
I've check all the vacuum lines and don't see anything that would be causing a problem.
just wondering if anyone would know if it was something to do with the wastegate or something with the link software?
Thanks
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8 hours ago, dx4picco said:
How about your fuel trims during ffs?
Haven't done anything to fuel trim, I only have proper understanding of shift cut so that's the only thing I've been messing with, thanks
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Hi there,
Just looking for some help on how I should be setting up my ignition cut for my flat foot shifting set up, wanting to get as big of a flame as possible(for photography & cutting down on boost lag) I only just got it setup and was messing around with the percentage of ignition cut and have gotten mixed l results, at around 25% I got a massive flame but could never replicate it, at 45% I get a constant setup for ffs but not getting the flames I'm after, anything after 55% I get no results. Just wondering if retarding the timing or using a different setup would help?
Thanks
The ffs is setup using a clutch switch and a H pattern gearbox
Link g1 compatibility
in Link G1
Posted
Ty for the help!