Fintank11

@DerekAE86 ok thanks, ill have a look. Maybe a cheaper way is to buy a different sender unit as I have the 10 bar sensor fitted to a sandwich plate and I still have the factory sensor port available. Thoughts?

@DerekAE86 why did I not cop this, in fairness I bought the gauge a couple years ago before buying the pressure sensor. Do you think it could work or would you recommend a different brand. Thanks

Hi Guys, Trying to wire in my Racetech 4 wire oil pressure gauge along with my 10 bar link oil pressure sensor. Can you advise which wires to tap into to make it work correctly as ive wired it as it says in manual and it just shoots up to 8 bar when pressure sensor reading 2 on pc. Thanks

@DerekAE86 @Adamw Update: Changed the running in oil for some semi synthetic 10w40 and allowed car to idle up to 72 degrees where the oil pressure dropped to 39 psi @960 rpm. (Car cuts out due to ignition timing and fuel the hotter it gets, it likes the coke start enrichment).I think when receives run in map it will continue to drop pressure and be ok. I’m wiring in a race tech oil pressure gauge this week also. New tps fitted and my sticky throttle has been fixed also. thanks guys

@DerekAE86 ok so I set the fuel around idle rpm to 50% and my afr is 12.4 and engine idles no problem now. Fuel ratio may need to be highered to get 14.7 though. What do you think ? When I Rev the car it revs it self up over 2k still. I’ve a new tps sensor on order as my current one has a rattle inside which I hope will fix this issue. As for the oil pressure, I set it to the 150psi and is showing 90 psi on idle at 50 degree engine temp (didn’t want to let it go higher incase of damage) when I set the calibration to 6.5 bar link it idles at 60 psi. It does show 0.1 psi when engine off and ignition on , i don’t know wether this is an issue or not. I will be fitting a race tech 8 bar oil gauge this evening to see what readings it produces.

@DerekAE86 will try the 50% across the idle range and see if it will idle for longer. I will check the sensor tomorrow to make sure it is definitely a 150 psi 10bar sensor. thanks

@DerekAE86 0 psi with engine off. When cranking with injectors etc turned off it’s 32 psi. When first started it was at 100 dropped to 90 after 10 seconds. This engine doesn’t run for any longer than 10-15 seconds. The car cuts out due to when lambda activates the afr shoots up to 22afr and it kills the engine. There’s no base map for the Nissan Micra/March so I’ve been using a 4age map just to get it started. Been working through getting all the sensors working which I have done so. Car is booked for mapping in 2weeks so trying to make sure I’ve everything working prior to going.

@DerekAE86 with that calibration it reads 90-100 psi on a fresh rebuild cold. I thought it had the wrong calibration. Engine is cold though and will need to get to temp to drop down pressure. I will try run the engine up to temp under this calibration and see what pressure it reads. thanks

@DerekAE86 I got the engine running again it just needed adjusting. I will rewire it the way you have stated though. Just one last thing , I have a 10bar link ecu oil pressure sensor and I’m trying to calibrate it but there is no option for a link 10 bar sensor in the list. Please see attached if you know which one I should choose. My link options only go up to 6.5 bar. thanks @DerekAE86

@DerekAE86 it’s just odd as the wiring all worked prior to removal and swapping sensor. I get that the bracket may have moved and my air gap may be too big now but I straightened it and still the same. I will rewire the shield wiring as soon as i can. what causes the roc speed to go negative ? and would the incorrect trigger signal cause my no ignition on crank issue? thanks

@DerekAE86 I will do this tomorrow morning. Just a few other details to help aid. I only have the shield wire earthed at the cylinder head right beside the plug for crank sensor which loom is about 150mm long which has no shield from ecu, does it need to be earthed to a ground at ecu and closer to sensor ?And I also have the trigger wiring beside the alternator wiring would this cause a noise effect ? I have the alternator removed in logging to check if it was causing it. thanks

@DerekAE86 I have the old sensor back in. From jacking the engine up and down etc the crank sensor bracket was rubbing the chassis leg. I dont think its bent as the sensor is still aligned perfect with teeth. is the crank scope the capture function? 01.09.23.llgx

Hi All, I had my engine running and started every time no trigger error etc. I had to remove the timing casing to fix a leak and I fitted a new cosworth vr crank sensor as it had a few cuts on cable. Car now won’t start and I’m getting trigger error warning and engine speed roc is going as low as -8000. I also have no spark when cranking but i have spark during test function. I will attach a log file in a few minutes, just wanted to post up and see if anyone has any ideas. car is a 1997 Nissan Micra 4 cylinder 36-1 trigger wheel cosworth vr sensor honda k20 coils thanks

@essb00 hopefully his weekend

@Adamwsorry, yes timing light is connected to cyl 1 lead between coil and plug. It’s a non advance timing light. If I attempt to Rev the car it turns off. Yes I am hitting enter each time. Something else I’ve noticed, if I leave the car over night day and come back to it , it won’t start until I plug pc in and connect ? It’s like as if it’s losing its memory like a radio would.