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SimonSTI

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SimonSTI last won the day on October 21

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About SimonSTI

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  • Birthday 07/15/1979

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    Quebec city

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  1. Nice list of upgrade! It's funny I just disable the fuel overrun after hours of investigation on why my blip on downshift did not work, works like a charm now, but I'll be able to enable it again with this update. Will have to wait until spring to test that out, it's winter here.
  2. Here is the logic I used, seem to work. 25s on cold start, 5s on hot restart.
  3. Can I use A8 and A11 as general output (most likely to trigger relay) ?? I don't have TGV, just want to make sure since they seemed to be linked together somehow seeing note in A9 and A10.
  4. I'm about to wire a new AEM uego sensor and I've seen a lot of recommendation to delay it's start, especially when the engine is cold to avoid thermal shock on the sensor. Would be really easy to wire on a relay controlled by the ECU. Just checking if some have done it? What would be the logic, something like 20sec. delay if ECT under 50 degrees?
  5. I have a 5 electric devices that would benefit from ECU control in the trunk. I'd like to have 1 can bus wire and a controller to simplify the wiring and avoid to much modification to the OEM wiring to scavange all output required to do so. I found this which should probably work: https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L460370000.html#.X6LLjlBOlhE Any recommendation on other options? Anything similar for managing input and multi position switch?
  6. Average knock level to help adjust gain between cylinder.
  7. I though I could map an analog inputs to a DI GP input? Yes I have cruise control. So looking at the diagram looks like I could use DI10 which seems unused, but it is labeled as "main switch" on the OEM ECU? Is the neutral switch used anywhere in the ECU logic? It's not configured and doesn't seem to have any side effect at the moment, could be another option.
  8. I have a Cobb Ethanol sensor, which seems to be the same brand (GM?) as the Link one. Cobb use little electronic to convert to a 5V signal and is using the TGV input signal to send the info to the ECU. Could i use the digital signal directly from the sensor in the TGV input instead and get the fuel temperature as well by doing so? tx,
  9. Awesome, it works really well. I've updated the base position table following what throttle position the car was using at each ECT temp. Logs for warm up is too big to attach, sending throttle test engine off logs, idle test once engine is at temperature and a hot restart. Also including the updated map. PC Datalog - 2020-10-21 7;16;34 pm engine start.llgx PC Datalog - 2020-10-21 7;14;34 pm idle.llgx PC Datalog - 2020-10-21 6;57;07 pm throttle test.llgx Simon Gagnon-Subaru STI 2.35 G25-660 G4X-V1-5-2 throttle PID test Adam Value.pclx
  10. I did a few more logs to check what is happening with throttle with the car not running. Seems that TPS is always a bit off compare to the target. I'll investigate further and test a few things later. Here are 2 more logs if you have suggestion. Throttle body is from a WRX 2008 (one that goes with the plastic intake manifold). Default configuration from the v10 base map doesn't use I either, not sure if it's on purpose.
  11. Not super fancy, but I use a math block to filter my speed signal with the average function (av). Works really well.
  12. I really appreciate the feedback and the help. Got a tuner setup the car this summer, but I'm in the process of going over the map and improving it. I just disabled the warm up ECT and started to setup the charge temperature instead. I've disabled the wastegate, reduce timing on boost (via the IAT ignition trim) and disable close loop fuel while I'm adjusting the fuel map. There is an offset with my current AFR gauge that I account for in the AFR lambda target (1.03 lambda = 1 on the gauge), I'll fix that over winter with a new CAN controller. Don't hesitate if you have other recommendation on
  13. Looks like it was the fuel overrun, turning it off fixed the issue. I rise the RPM deactivation to 2000 RPM and it fixed the issue. One last issue trying to fix, when the car is really hot, blip will get the idle down to 600-700rpm almost staling the car, when the target is 1100. I attached 2 PC log showing this. The PID gets to max timing (35) quite fast the idle is still dropping, then throttle starts opening up to 5% then still dropping, then it starts getting back to the target. tx for the help
  14. I've been able to improve idle a lot by following a few advices on this forum. When I'm over the speed lockout (status = hold speed) the idle oscillate from 1700 to 1300 until i reach the speed, then it stabilizes very nicely. Can't seem to find what is controlling idle when above the speed. Attached the tune and a log I did. tx,
  15. Hi, When looking at the base map provided with the software the Fuel Temperature sensor is not configured, but seems to be wired when looking at the diagram. Is that on purpose and should be left as this or it is a good idea to configure it? If so anybody as the calibration for this sensor? tx,
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