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About Cemicks

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  1. Thanks, I will try other angles. Funny the mechanical sound (as I'm calling it) does not occur with the original offset angles , just the new ones. I did confirm there are stops on both vanos pistons. Both stops are installed to reduce Retard position. I happen to have a stock vanos for comparison. I was not using F4, I was doing Store to ECU under ECU Controls.
  2. I made the cam offset changes but am getting lots of cam errors. Position is following target. When blipping the throttle i start to hear a mechanical screech which obviously concerns me. I only let it do this momentarily on a few occasions to catch it in the attached log. I had to go back and select log all parameters as my first attachment was specific parameters. The vanos is supposed to have mechanical limiters which I am still trying to confirm. I am sure the previous owner was not relying on ecu limiting. I record a 4th cam pulse error on the exhaust. I also notice every time I
  3. Excellent. Thank you. Garage is 4C right now so tomorrow after work I take it the next step. As we say in America......its Miller Time.
  4. Sorry, what do you mean by "follows target"?
  5. Cam Angle test complete. Please confirm my direction from the attachments. Inlet Offset should be 112.5deg replacing 344.0 and Exhaust Offset should be 44.2deg replacing 383.0. So then the max movement (as long as no mechanical bind or anything) is based on any mechanical stop installed in the Vanos for these 292 cams. I am still trying to track down what mechanical limiter was installed as I have email evidence that the Vanos was modified. Thanks
  6. Yes both were set to 50Hz. I will proceed as directed with the cam angle test. These are not stock cams....does that matter or am I determining the proper offset based on the cams in the motor? Do I run the test at idle? Currently looks like DI1 VVT Cam Position Inlet Offset is 344.0 deg ATDC and Trigger 2 VVT Exh Offset is 383.0 deg ATDC. Are you saying they should be the same value? Based on the lowest value from the cam test? Again, thanks for your help. I have certainly learned a lot over the past few months.
  7. I performed the Test PWM on all four solenoids. Had to change from 50Hz to lower value to hear it. I had no clicking on Aux 1 Inlet Retard. I started moving the wires going to the connector and it started clicking. It appears the socket was not contacting the pin. Was able to adjust the mpin slightly for positive contact even with jigging the wires and connector. Attached in new log with active Inlet Aux 1 retard. Regarding your comment about Exh Offset off 20deg. When it is all the way home it should be showing 0deg like the Inlet? Log 3-01-21 2;14;09 pm Warm w-vanos s
  8. Discovered recently on dyno pull rough mid range. It looks like Inlet cam is not moving. I cleaned manifold and inspected the solenoid pin connectors to board as they are a weak point. Solenoid bench tests fine with magnets as I hear the solenoid/valve clicking. I also applied 12v to pins 2 & 5 and supplied a ground to the IA, IR, EA, ER pins and also get audible clicking. I am attaching two log files with the car warm. One is increasing rpm and trying to hold steady to activate the cams. The other is idle with several throttle blips. Looks like exhaust cam is moving as it should as
  9. Adam, I have read through several S54 VVT topics and have an issue with Inlet Cam movement.  I created a pc log from a cold start through 70C ECT at idle followed by throttle blips at temp. I created four charts of DC% vs cam position and rpm to show you.  The exh cam is moving as it should.  The inlet cam does not appear to be moving.  I will follow up later and send the actual log file which is at home on laptop.  This intake cam failure I believe goes along with the richness I am experiencing in the mid range.  Apparently the solenoid pin solder is a common failure but I removed and inspected and all solder joints look secure.  I haven't physically cleaned the manifold out yet and rebuild with new o'rings.  I will do that.  I think my question is, does the Inlet DC% in the charts look normal to you?  it shows -27.5 near the beginning and then just sits a 0 until I start throttle blipping.

    I hope you don't mind me directing this to you vs the entire forum.  If that is a no no then let me know and I will certainly comply.

    Best and Merry Christmas


    Exh-Inl DC% vs Cam Pos and rpm.xlsx

  10. Adding screen shots of all ecu settings. Kind of new at this. I purchased the car a year ago tuned and the recent dyno pull uncovered some issues. From what I see the fuel table is rich in the middle range. Screen shots.docx
  11. I did a dyno pull recently and the motor actually shook from 3600 - about 5000 rpm then settled out nicely. Data log shows rich in the same rpm range. I suspect fuel map but being new to this maybe someone sees something else in the log I attached. Motor is tuned with wideband. Car pulled 345whp at 7600rpm. Dyno1 11-12-20.llg Dyno 1 11-12-20.xlsx
  12. I found I had a bad ground. It is now working I updated firmware to 4:10:2. I’m looking at runtime values for Logging Status and Capacity. When I set up GP Input as a Switch Type Toggle with On Level Low it will start logging when I remove the 12v going to DI3 and Logging Status will flash green like it is trying to when I add the 12v. But it will not initiate logging if I have on level set to High. It just flashes like it is trying to. Capacity increases from 0% as it logs. if I set Switch Type to Momentary it will start logging if I flip power on then off in this condition I will n
  13. I get a popup message when I connect "An invalid character was found in text content" Line 0 What does this mean? I am also trying to enable Logging using a toggle switch though DI#3. I have been able to get one data log using the toggle but have not been able to get another. If I toggle On for 20 seconds then Off for 5 seconds then back On for another 20 seconds I would think I would get two logs? Does log 1 need to be closed somehow? Any help here would be appreciated.
  14. Testing is complete. All 6 injectors clicked. No ignition spark from any spark plugs...but i found my problem. The previous owner installed a relay to power the coils. The car has a power on and fuel pump on toggle and I found a broken wire from the fuel pump on relay going to the relay that powers the coils. The relay should have switched when I powered on the fuel pump but did not. As soon as I forced the relay I had spark....then the engine started once I reassembled the stuff I had taken apart looking for the problem. I learned a lot in this process and feel more comfortable with wh
  15. Thank you. I'll be on that this evening. I very much appreciate the support you are providing.
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