Cemicks
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Posts posted by Cemicks
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Thanks, I will try other angles.
Funny the mechanical sound (as I'm calling it) does not occur with the original offset angles , just the new ones. I did confirm there are stops on both vanos pistons. Both stops are installed to reduce Retard position. I happen to have a stock vanos for comparison.
I was not using F4, I was doing Store to ECU under ECU Controls.
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I made the cam offset changes but am getting lots of cam errors. Position is following target. When blipping the throttle i start to hear a mechanical screech which obviously concerns me. I only let it do this momentarily on a few occasions to catch it in the attached log. I had to go back and select log all parameters as my first attachment was specific parameters. The vanos is supposed to have mechanical limiters which I am still trying to confirm. I am sure the previous owner was not relying on ecu limiting. I record a 4th cam pulse error on the exhaust. I also notice every time I turn off power to the ecu the new cam offset values revert to the old values when i turn back on. I send tot he ecu but am not getting any confirmation when i do it.
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Excellent. Thank you.
Garage is 4C right now so tomorrow after work I take it the next step.
As we say in America......its Miller Time.
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3 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Enter them in and check cam position follows target.
Sorry, what do you mean by "follows target"?
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Cam Angle test complete. Please confirm my direction from the attachments. Inlet Offset should be 112.5deg replacing 344.0 and Exhaust Offset should be 44.2deg replacing 383.0.
So then the max movement (as long as no mechanical bind or anything) is based on any mechanical stop installed in the Vanos for these 292 cams. I am still trying to track down what mechanical limiter was installed as I have email evidence that the Vanos was modified.
Thanks
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Yes both were set to 50Hz. I will proceed as directed with the cam angle test. These are not stock cams....does that matter or am I determining the proper offset based on the cams in the motor? Do I run the test at idle? Currently looks like DI1 VVT Cam Position Inlet Offset is 344.0 deg ATDC and Trigger 2 VVT Exh Offset is 383.0 deg ATDC. Are you saying they should be the same value? Based on the lowest value from the cam test? Again, thanks for your help. I have certainly learned a lot over the past few months.
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I performed the Test PWM on all four solenoids. Had to change from 50Hz to lower value to hear it. I had no clicking on Aux 1 Inlet Retard. I started moving the wires going to the connector and it started clicking. It appears the socket was not contacting the pin. Was able to adjust the mpin slightly for positive contact even with jigging the wires and connector. Attached in new log with active Inlet Aux 1 retard.
Regarding your comment about Exh Offset off 20deg. When it is all the way home it should be showing 0deg like the Inlet?
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Discovered recently on dyno pull rough mid range. It looks like Inlet cam is not moving. I cleaned manifold and inspected the solenoid pin connectors to board as they are a weak point. Solenoid bench tests fine with magnets as I hear the solenoid/valve clicking. I also applied 12v to pins 2 & 5 and supplied a ground to the IA, IR, EA, ER pins and also get audible clicking. I am attaching two log files with the car warm. One is increasing rpm and trying to hold steady to activate the cams. The other is idle with several throttle blips. Looks like exhaust cam is moving as it should as it moved 30deg....questioning the %DC signal. It went from 57% to around 0% with lots of fluctuation. Looks like the Inlet cam moves 1deg but the solenoid %DC goers from -57% TO +57%. Do you think I am chasing electrical or mechanical? I purchased a pressure gage to measure VANOS pressure but need fittings in order to test it. Should I cut into the solenoid signal wires and verify the voltage changes at the connector as the ECU signal shows? I have a new (used) solenoid that I can modify again removing the diodes to see if in fact the solenoid is faulty. Any suggestions
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Adding screen shots of all ecu settings. Kind of new at this. I purchased the car a year ago tuned and the recent dyno pull uncovered some issues. From what I see the fuel table is rich in the middle range.
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I did a dyno pull recently and the motor actually shook from 3600 - about 5000 rpm then settled out nicely. Data log shows rich in the same rpm range. I suspect fuel map but being new to this maybe someone sees something else in the log I attached. Motor is tuned with wideband. Car pulled 345whp at 7600rpm.
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I found I had a bad ground. It is now working
I updated firmware to 4:10:2. I’m looking at runtime values for Logging Status and Capacity. When I set up GP Input as a Switch Type Toggle with On Level Low it will start logging when I remove the 12v going to DI3 and Logging Status will flash green like it is trying to when I add the 12v. But it will not initiate logging if I have on level set to High. It just flashes like it is trying to. Capacity increases from 0% as it logs.
if I set Switch Type to Momentary it will start logging if I flip power on then off in this condition I will not know if it is on or off as the momentary can occur on to off or off to on.
should I try setting up with DI4 instead of 3?Im guessing it is the Active Edge associated with DI1-DI6
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I get a popup message when I connect "An invalid character was found in text content" Line 0
What does this mean?
I am also trying to enable Logging using a toggle switch though DI#3.
I have been able to get one data log using the toggle but have not been able to get another. If I toggle On for 20 seconds then Off for 5 seconds then back On for another 20 seconds I would think I would get two logs? Does log 1 need to be closed somehow?
Any help here would be appreciated.
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Testing is complete. All 6 injectors clicked. No ignition spark from any spark plugs...but i found my problem. The previous owner installed a relay to power the coils. The car has a power on and fuel pump on toggle and I found a broken wire from the fuel pump on relay going to the relay that powers the coils. The relay should have switched when I powered on the fuel pump but did not. As soon as I forced the relay I had spark....then the engine started once I reassembled the stuff I had taken apart looking for the problem. I learned a lot in this process and feel more comfortable with what I have. This started out with me trying to reduce the wire clutter. Now I know the wires I removed were not the problem so I will continue simplifying the remnants. Pictures attached of what we were working on. Should be able to make it to Watkins Glen in New York state this coming Monday. Thanks again for the support. All my work buddies (mates) have been told about then customer service you provide.
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Thank you. I'll be on that this evening. I very much appreciate the support you are providing.
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Any chance you have a youtube video for these tests?
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1 minute ago, Adamw said:
This video is for a G4+ but you will find the procedure is much the same in the Vipec. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
Thanks i will look at that....i just uploaded about 8 seconds of cranking with fuel pump enabled
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Yes, RPM will confirm if the problem is related to triggers or not. If you have RPM then I would suggest doing a short log of it cranking
Yes rpm confirmed. Now I’ll have to figure out how to log. What should be included? Sorry all new to me. My good intentions of cleaning up unused wires has put me back a bit. Attached and fingers crossed
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4 hours ago, Adamw said:
Does the ECU power up (laptop connect)? Do you get RPM displayed in the software when cranking?
Thank you for your quick response. Thought I was onto my problem. Yes, the cam sensor is powered by 12V along with the 5V pin. I rotated the motor and saw that working correctly. I can connect via laptop and will check this evening for rpm. I cannot imagine that any of the wires I removed would have caused this. They were all (I second guess myself now) cut and bundled by the previous owner when he did the motor and ECU conversion. If no rpm seen on laptop I assume the sensor is the culprit. If rpm is seen, what would I look for next? Is there a test for power to the injectors or igniters I can do?
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BMW S54 conversion in E36 ran last week with V88. I was cutting out wires from old OEM harness for cleanup. Now it won’t start. I am brand new to ViPec system. Purchased car this way. I am not seeing any voltage from Trigger 1 signal wire with ignition on. I checked at crank sensor connector and cut into wire 2” from V88 pinout. Shouldn’t I be getting similar 5V as Trigger 2 cam sensor?
BMW S54 VVT Issue
in ViPEC V Series
Posted
Just an update. Car is fully dyno tuned now. I found a top notch ViPec tuner here in the states also intimate with BMW S54. Two days of calibration and dyno tuning. Now have oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure all added to the ECU. I then provided 20 minutes of track logs and we adjusted active fuel map and overrun fuel cut to reduce some mid range richness and popping when I went full throttle to no throttle. I head to another track this week and will provide one more log to see if any more adjusting is warranted. Can’t thank this support forum (Adam) enough for helping me out this past winter figuring out VVT issues. I’m sure I’ll be back but for now. Time to drive b