Mike928

If I was to machine a toothed ring for my Porsche flywheel, what would be the ideal/most accurate tooth setup?

My Porsche has this flywheel sensor ring, 100 tooth with 2 slightly larger teeth at about 70 degrees advanced of TDC. What setting do I put in PC-Link for this crank sensor config? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y4PQ52fRna0dMB1fVJQAvHVUmpAU91n9/view?usp=sharing

Maybe I can put my multimeter on the ECU outputs during its operation? From the pedal, I get no TP operation at all, I have done on #1 only but not now. I've even tried turning #2 off, everything for #2 off to see if I could get just one to work properly but that failed.

I'll do them all again but it won't be for a while. Yes #2 looks reversed but as I posted previously, feeding (+) into Aux9 and 17 at the ECU plug and (-) into Aux 10 and 18 similarly then inputing 12V via a pot both throttles open and close in perfect unison. The video shows when #2 opens during 'on setup' mode, closes when changed back to 'on'.

ok, done it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Gj4DrUf2ooiL_Z7Y0AjsBtGebB74vJus/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1He7TktZmRE3Mqy1SsliU9GcBBfx1zBRP/view?usp=sharing 1st pic is at the end of calibration [both] but still in 'On setup' mode. 2nd pic is 'on' mode straight after setup. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gPcQfcrPSX_hWnVRL77apEWNglClSVpx/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g5UxKuCNxwIrI4V_yrMLSv3bSAWRAjvu/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1I_6DVirmptNf6l1lsymD0u6CHZfe8Mss/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LOUFWmpXAltvavkizvIbiLMDfiCdNzcU/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m8OnW4tWlH35WcEqRyqmaNOeLHL14OwU/view?usp=sharing I note that both throttles are 6% open at rest, as soon as cranking starts, they shut hard and go back to 6% about 1 second after cranking stops.

I can't upload anything Adam, limit too small?

Will do, tomorrow. Thanks Can't upload anything? 35.32kb limit?

Will do, tomorrow. Thanks

Hi Adam, I still can't sort out my 2 E-throttles. As you know, I had to change the APS to a 2 pot one, which I've done and it responds nicely in PCLink. I have confirmed absolutely that the wiring is correct, as I can drive both throttles simultaneously from the ECU plugs with a remote pot. On completion of calibration, in 'on setup' mode still, #2 is fully open and #1 is fully closed. They both close when 'on setup' mode is exited. As you have suggested, I have setting #2 to 'Low' but no change in result. As you suggested, I tried manually calibrating #2 and the 'open' 'closed' voltages for TP Main and TP Sub stay as entered manually but the ecu immediately shuts off throttle relay 2, usually with error 94 or 99. The other thing strange is I'm not getting an RPM signal, even though the Crank and Cam sensors are sorted.

Why is it so? First pic, E-throttle2 + [Aux17] is 'off' just like E-throttle1 + [Aux9]. Second pic, E-throttle 2 + [Aux17] is now PWM, even though its relay is 'off' but #1, Aux9 is 'off'? file 2 too big pic #2

Absolutely, reading you loud and clear! Can and will do.

I have wired the crank sensor according to the attached document. an earth (-) and a signal, no shield? Crank Sensor picture and pin out.docx

A better trigger scope. Trigger Scope Log 2023-11-24 3;06;44 pm.llg

I just did some basic testing with a small test unit I have for testing injectors, idle stabilisers and Ethrottles. I unplugged plug 'B' and plug 'D' from the ECU, bridged plugB#18 Aux9 & plugD#20 Aux17, the 2 (+) Ethrottle motor feeds, then I bridged plugB#26 Aux10 & plugD#21 Aux18, the 2 (-) Ethrottle motor feeds and connected my tester power wires to the 2 bridges and rotated the POT control knob and watched both Ethrottle plates opening and closing perfectly together. I did check the tester output polarity with my Fluke multimeter to be sure. This shows me conclusively that the 2 Ethrottle bodies and the wiring right to the Thunder ecu is correct. So it has to be what I'm asking the ECU to do that is wrong somewhere? The other thing I would greatly appreciate help with is the pedal sensor. I mounted one to the complex Porsche mechanism [it does throttle, kickdown and trans cable] only to find it has the wrong internal system [only 1 pot]. So I bought a new one with the require dual pots and it works but it is too bulky to be fitted into this car and adapting to the other stuff. I need a smallish unit like the Bosch rotary one but with dual pots and compatible with the Link Thunder with dual Ethrottles?

I did get a result on the trigger scope for both triggers when I clicked on capture. It dropped the scale down from 20V to 1V.

I changed Aux17 and TP2 Sub span, saved the file, closed PCLink, reopened it logged onto ECU, loaded the updated file, said yes to loading it ECU and storing it, powered ECU off and back on and re-calibrated it. As soon as I reset ethrottles 1&2 back 'on' mode it drops ethrottle2 relay and I have error code 32, 99. Working the AP moves only ethrottle1. G4+_928_6L_1.pclr

ok, I'll give that a try. I just got back from my workshop with this other stuff, so I'll upload that now. I did the 'capture' on scope mode and there is a result. I hope I've got the things you need. Trigger Scope Log 2023-11-23 11;58;02 am.llg Log 2023-11-23 11;21;21 am.llg

G4+_928_6L.pclr

Some progress to report. I got to no errors reported in PCLink however, in this state Ethrottle 1 opened as the AP went down while Ethrottle 2 went from open to closed, then the reverse for AP being released. Immediately I thought it has to be reversed polarity, though I have checked and double checked this by unplugging both ends of the loom and proving continuity and verifying wire to plug pin on both ends, plus Ethrottle one is wired exactly as Ethrottle 2 and it works properly. So I swapped Aux17 and Aux18 to try it anyway and Link was not happy with that. I got errors 98,99 and Ethrottle 2 relay dropped out, so I put the Aux 17 &18 back. When I do throttle calibration, it all seems to work and is reported as complete but watching the throttle plates #2 doesn't move through the whole process. I did have no recognition of trig 1 or trig 2 but some adjustment to the settings and the now go from NO to YES on crank but I'm getting no signal readings on voltages or scope screen? A14 & A15 are both OFF, nothing there but they show red as 'Open Circuit" why? Log 2023-11-21 5;32;36 pm.llg 928_Link_Thunder_E-throttles.pdf

I haven't tried to start it yet Adam, that's why they switch off I guess. I'm cautious about the first start as I want things to be right. I've built quite a few motors over the years but this is my first jump into all electronic controls and programmable ECU, so I'm learning as I go. I have my error count down to 3 from 20ish! My big question would be 'when is it ready for me to try it? The coils and injectors are just listed as all off and I was expecting them to be on as the are powered. Just my ignorance. I am learning a lot though.

I've made some progress, mostly in learning the Link Thunder. I've wired up the new Bosch 0 280 755 051 [2 pots] accelerator pedal and run the calibration successfully. I then did the throttle body calibration successfully and the setup worked on PCLink, showing the throttles opening and closing, plus I could hear them. but the ECU still activates the 2 relays for the 2 throttle bodies and the relay for the fuel pump but shuts them off immediately? For a while Throttle #1 relay remained active [closed]. These are solid state relays that have an active/inactive LED on them, so it's easy to monitor. I've checked the voltage at the supply for these relays and it's always been in the upper 12 volt range. The other thing I note is that the 8 coils and the 8 injectors are always 'OFF'. As advised, I have powered the coils relay from an ignition source and confirmed the voltage in and out and powered the injectors from the same source as the ECU power, plug A pin 5.

OK, that's easy to achieve, I'll trigger it from an Ign on fuse bank. I've been reading and re-reading and it seems that I should power both the ECU pwr, plug A pin5 and the injector power from the same relay, as the ECU wants to know the actual voltage going to the injectors for accurate timing. So I'll fit another relay triggered from 'Main Relay' +&- to ow side switch this using Ign pin #2 on plug C to activate the ECU.

I now have both E-throttle bodies on their own relays, #1 triggered by Aux3 high and #2 triggered by Aux2 high. The pull in (-) side of each relay goes to ground. #1 relay supplies 12volt + to plug B pin 5 to supply Aux 9/10 and #2 relay supplies 12volt + to plug D pin 1 to supply Aux 17/18. The injectors will be powered by the PDM. The 8 coils have their own 120A relay as previously discussed these BERU coils [Porsche Cayenne] seem to need a lot of current. I've triggered this relay from Aux 5, as the PCLink help says Aux 5-10 can trigger switched high relays. I chose 'Engine fan' from the drop down for function as there is no general relay selection. The APPS I think I'll just fit a new one of known type and condition. I'm looking at Bosch 0280755051 [attached] so I'll have to make yet another bracket. 928_Link_Thunder_E-trottles.pdf