essb00

Since your engine is on ITBs, it needs to be tuned fully in Alpha-N --- main fuel table & ignition table have to use the Y-axis on TPS (instead of MGP & MAP). How unstable is the MAP reading? Can you also post a PC log (idle and playing with the throttle to show MAP stability)? This is where the fuel equation load source would depend on if Load=BAP or Load=MAP must be used.

Your engine is on a dizzy, so at 0/180/360/540 it should fire. That you say 180° pickup (from #1 TDC) on the dizzy is G1 --- and that is actually approx. 360° crank angle offset. Did you actually verify the trigger offset using a timing light and the trigger offset calibration page? Later on, you'll need the correct trigget offset for proper sequential injection and setting up fuel trims, ignition trims, knock control, etc.

That's quite unusual, but can be because of the way you have aligned the driven gear in reference to the rotor position when dizzy was pulled out and put back in. Normally close to 0° or close to 360° (depending if you used G2 or G1 for Trig2).

Have you verified the trigger offset?

Conditions within the lockouts (rpm and TPS)? Post a copy of your tune file and short log with lockout conditions met.

You're having some noise spikes on Trig2 - enough voltage to be armed & considered as a tooth. Increase the arming for Trig2 500rpm to 0.3V

...by posting a copy of your tune file, trigger scope log, and short PC log while trying to start.

Analog Inputs>Lambda 1>Lambda Sensor Control ---> Have you assigned Link CAN?

2. Drift on the dwell times is because the idle ignition had to advance/retard -- and the ignition dwell would then not be immediately compensated. That is fairly normal. I suggest 8ms from dwell from 7V, then interpolate in between to about 2.5ms at 14V

Also post a copy of your tune file and also short PC log (even if the engine not running/not started, CAN Lambda runtime values would already be logged).

You're hitting overrun fuel cut. Try reducing the 'Idle>Startup Offset Table' values. Maybe also raise the Overrun Deactivation Table RPM values for 70-120°C.

Try this one (on the YT linked video).

If on 'Fuel Equation Mode' = 'Modelled', this is quite normal. The values in the fuel table is volumetric efficiency, not actual percentage of master fuel (like in traditional mode). Post a copy of your tune file and short log showing exactly what you have described above.

Wire the 'Neutral/Park' switch then put some values on 'Gear/Drive Offset' and 'Gear/Drive Idle Up'.

You can get download the manual and quickstart guide on the URL below... https://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda

How's the airflow on that big auxiliary air valve?

You could do with just one relay there. Don't forget to put fuses though from batt & key.

1. You should connect 85 to switched ignition source. 2. Sample below:

This must be "Transmit User Stream 4".

You need the PCLink for G4+.

That is because Windows scaling (when you have selected other than 100%) is trying so hard to scale PCLink which is running on OpenGL. Put it to 100%, restart. It should solve that issue.

You can try ECUMaster EGT to CAN (up to 8 K-type thermocouples) and ECUMaster CAN Switchboard V3 (8 DI, 8 An Volt, 4 Aux Out). Both have been proven to work with Link's CAN --- and CAN stream templates are included with the current PCLink versions.

Idle base position values are too low to sustain target idle speed even with the StartUp Offset values already added. After the StartUp Hold Time & Decay Time has elapsed, then Idle Control turns on and adds idle position to reach target idle. You'll have to tune the Idle Base Position values first in Open Loop then get it close to the target idle speed before putting it in Closed Loop (which is meant to correct tiny discrepancies, but not to be relied on to fully correct large ones).

You can try to enable the DI Freq Filter in the GP Speed input... It might help, but if not enough try below: I made this RC low-pass filter --- and I have not seen similar fluctuations since I made it. Check out the link below. *You might need to do some trial & error with the capacitor value so that higher speed signals would still be useable.

Better if you use a resistor/capacitor to smoothen the reading. Depending on the resistance and capacitance, this however has a longer time before settling to the actual level. Well try combinations, but it would be a compromise between having the correct reading immediately vs level fluctuations on fuel sloshing.