essb00

Too many issues there... Notable ones are:
- Trigger errors
- AFR Target Table --- must be rpm vs MAP or MGP.
- Ignition table --- should be rpm vs TPS (since your engine is on ITBs).
- Idle Speed Control --- incomplete setup
- Overrun Fuel Cut --- not setup
- Accel Enrichment --- not setup
- Knock control --- incomplete setup
Sorry but with the way that tuner has so far done things there, I don't think he will do any better. You need to find another tuner...

Pls post a copy of your tune file, plus PC log with all the issues you have described above.

I can see on that tiny pic that both Trig 1 & 2 are wired with incorrect polarity.
Just interchange the wires for each reluctor.

I can see on that tiny pic that both Trig 1 & 2 are wired with incorrect polarity.
Just interchange the wires for each reluctor.

You only captured some noise there on that trigger scope. Try again, make sure you click 'Capture' while the starter motor is turning/cranking the engine. 

Since your engine is on ITBs, it needs to be tuned fully in Alpha-N  --- main fuel table & ignition table have to use the Y-axis on TPS (instead of MGP & MAP).
How unstable is the MAP reading? Can you also post a PC log (idle and playing with the throttle to show MAP stability)? This is where the fuel equation load source would depend on if Load=BAP or Load=MAP must be used.

Actually I think I figured it out. I did a static GP idle Offset by a GP Output that has conditions

Cond 1 or 2 or 3
 
Gear == R
Gear == 1
Gear == 2

Offset idle by x


Where x is a static RPM number.

This seems to have worked

You could do with just one relay there. Don't forget to put fuses though from batt & key.

This must be "Transmit User Stream 4".

You can try ECUMaster EGT to CAN (up to 8 K-type thermocouples) and ECUMaster CAN Switchboard V3 (8 DI, 8 An Volt, 4 Aux Out).
Both have been proven to work with Link's CAN --- and CAN stream templates are included with the current PCLink versions.

I haven't used these myself yet but friends have with good success. https://sirhclabs.com/product/vr-to-hall-sensor-converter-dual-channel/

The average function previous values always start as all 0s so it will take 200s to reach the current actual value if it steady and not changing.
you could probably use a timer to show the current value until 200s has passed and then show the average value
Something like this:

Up to this... Sorry for hijacking this thread...

I was able to make the fue level work (adjusted with the components I have available as in the below pic) --- I got the high level (as of the moment the tank is full) but I have to wait for the actual reading of the empty level to adjust my linear calibration. The full sweep of the floater seems to read 0.675V to 4.900V.
*Vehicle also on 4-120 Ohm unit.
*10SQ050 Schottky diode for isolation added - as the stock gauge 12V fuel level sensor is still connected in parallel.
Edit: Too much fluctuation on fuel sloshing in tank. I changed the 10K to 100K Ohms. 

@Adamw Ummm... I have the fuel level assigned to 'MAF Meter' to make it show in OBD2 (just changed the label on the app, but I cannot change the unit showing). I'm wondering if there's any better option - while there's no dedicated analog input for 'Fuel Level'. 

You dont have CAN Aux 1-4 assigned to anything in your map so they will be outputting a "2" via CAN.  When you set it to test they will be outputting a 1.  
So most likely the ECU master device considers anything >0 to be "on", so you wont see any difference between the two states that the ecu is sending and the switchboard wont handle "Off" or "Fault" statuses correctly. 
If you actually assign CAN aux 1-4 to the function you want to use them for then the inactive/active states will at least work correctly.  
 
 

Sure thing, here you go. https://www.rowanhick.com/fraser-sp330-full-build-history

Hi all, just thought I'd give an update on this as I decided to have another go at it yesterday. Pretty certain I cooked the meter movement, so I grabbed the other tacho meter movement and did the resistor mod. And it's all working now! :)))

Its a bit of a guess since they arent using the standard OBD2 parameter names in a lot of that list and they dont list what PID's those names relate to either, but I would say oil temp or possibly MAF could be used (assuming their "Air Flow" is OBD2 Mass Air Flow from PID10). 
To send ethanol % out instead of oil temp, set up like below.   MAF would be similar.

Before I've seen this reply, I turned oof the fuel pump control and it works fine. I was planning on changing it to PW control and set up a table for it. 
I will try screen shot you in your reply tomorrow as well. Will let you know how it works.
 
Thanks
I you can't tell an engine is lean when free revving then you shouldn't be tuning.

Excel file attached.  Note it is simplified compared to the ecu, it doesnt consider fuel temp or the charge cooling effects of the fuel, fuel press etc, but it will give pretty similar values in most cases. 
 
Injection Calcs.xlsx

Here you go...

On "Coming to a Stop with AC 1", you've got the overrun fuel cut activating... You may need to reduce your dashpot percentage to maybe 2.5%.

On "Idle Turn AC on and Off", you need to increase the values of your idle base position table to have minimum values 32 on normal operating temps.

"C:\Users\UserName\AppData\Roaming\PCLink"

Just incase someone else finds this topic. Now the G5 has been released and the G4x firmware updated with additional Anti-Lag options you can utilize the AL ISC Override AND have functional Fuel Cut without having to use Cyclic Idle and retaining the ability to have Dual AL tables for silly things like crackle tunes.
Just disable the main Overrun Fuel Cut under Fuel and instead create a Virtual Aux for the same conditions (EG: TPS < 0.5%, 0.5s on delay) then use that as an Axis on the newly added Anti-Lag Fuel Cut table.
Put 0s across the entire RPM range when your Virtual Aux is inactive so there is no fuel cut, but then put the desired Fuel Cut% in the RPM ranges when the Virtual Aux is active. Using this method you can have 100% cut at high RPM but then ease the fuel back in as you get close to the desired RPM to have full fueling again; around 1500RPM for example.
If you were using Ignition Trim in the default Overrun Fuel Cut settings you can also implement this in the AL Ignition Trim table using the same method as above.
An added bonus of this is you can add a speed or gear parameter to your Virtual Aux so fuel cut never happens at less than 30km/h or 2nd for example to prevent jerkiness at carpark or traffic jam speeds where you might have otherwise been going in and out of fuel cut before.

The Dashpot and Idle Base Position changes did the trick.  I drove to and from work today with about 10 stops along each way.  In the morning I drove in with no AC to make sure the changes did not adversely effect the idle with no accessories.  The drove home in the afternoon had the AC on the entire way.  Twice out of 10 stops the idle speed oscillated 2 cycles and then calmed right down.   I think Dashpot and Speed Lockout may need a bit more change.  After raising the Idle Base Position, I had to lower the Startup and AC Offset Tables by the same amount to keep the idle speed the same when using these tables.
Thanks again for the guidance.
Ken 

This is Scooter, my 1999 NB Miata. Acquired in August 2017 as an OEM+ car that became an ITB learning project. Quad throttled since 2021 and used an MS3Pro for a while before making the leap to a Link G4X. I'm very grateful to KORacing for getting me up and running and answering all my questions. This is the best the car has felt in years.
The G4X ECU is setup to run modelled mode with MAP as the Load source and TPS on the Fuel, Ignition and Target tables. The MAP is jumpy but the car runs great. There are fuel pressure, oil pressure and oil temperature inputs with safeties looking after the engine. I've also played with Math channels, virtual outputs and CAN Auxes to setup custom functions such as virtual fuel tank resets, flood clear, knock CEL and an extra idle up when the second fan turns on. Some virtual outputs also feed the GP RPM Limits for AFR and Fuel Pressure safety. I've also played with Launch control and gear shift control. Both worked really well but mechanical sympathy doesn't let me use them often.
The engine runs sequential ignition with Toyota COPs and sequential injection with DW 550cc injectors. KORacing setup the injector deadtimes for me because the data I got from DW was far from correct. I intend to setup a Flex Fuel sensor and run modelled multi-fuel for the new-to-me VVT engine build.
The goal of Scooter is to be a fun fizzy street car with track capability. It competes in ABQ Super Lap once a month, and we will soon make the trek to Colorado for trackday at Grand Junction Motor Speedway during the Flyin' Miata Summer Camp. I'm excited to be part of the Link community and continue learning with this car and ECU.
Stockish power, 2250Lbs, 7500RPMs. Snorts for days.



 


Current specs:
Electronics:
- Link G4X Plug-in ECU
    - Hybrid Alpha-N. Self-tuned
- CANChecked MFA 2.0 center gauge
- 14point7 Spartan 3 CAN wideband controller
Engine:
- Stock BP-4W
- 36-2 trigger wheel
- Fluidampr balancer
- DW550cc injectors to accomodate future flex fuel
Intake:
- 45mm Borla Induction Throttle Bodies
- Custom 60mm carbon fiber polycarbonate velocity stacks
- NB Miata idle valve
Exhaust:
- NB2 tubular headers
- Cobalt midpipe with catalyst
- Stock muffler with a cartoonish tip that the car had when I bought it
Cooling:
- Supermiata radiator
- FM coolant reroute
- 180F thermostat
Suspension:
- Xida Race coilovers 800/500 (14k/9k)
- R-type tie rods
- Sadfab bronze bearings
- Energy Suspension Poly bushings
Chassis:
- Paco motorsports strong arms
- FM butterfly brace V2
- Front strut bar
- Blackbird Fabworx GT3 Rollbar
Brakes:
- FM LBBK
- Centric blank rotors
Interior:
- Schroth 4-point ASM harnesses
- MPI Mazda Cup steering wheel
- NRG Keyway type quick-release
- Carbon fiber Lotus Exige Replica seats