Teigster

Attached file is based on your G4+ file, you can use the compare function to check differences between it and your G4X one that you made.
Notes:
Would recommend turning on Asynchronous injection and wall wetting Accel enrichment will need setting up as isn't directly equivalent RPM Limit decay settings aren't directly equivalent vvt will need to be calibrated no voltage protection on aps e-throttle will need to be retuned CE Light is virtual aux 1? Launch control was activated by DI2 but DI2 wasn't setup. Launch control percent trim is no longer an option idle speed lockout is 500rpm, means it would not enter idle speed control, have changed to 1500rpm gear detection is setup but there is no speed input. can transmit stream 1 frame 1 transmits An Temp 3 when it isn't setup as an input can DI 2 is now ac request, no ac output setup though 2112406839_1645391496952_1643874886356_TeigonsCurrentTune.pclx

 

If you want to attach your tune I will set up some CAN to look at the two possible AC status bytes so we can see if either are valid.  AC will be the easiest test because you can leave the OEM ecu and Fury both connected to the PT bus at the same time while testing.

Ok, I had a quick look, the loopbunny stuff is no use as that appears to be all from the low speed K bus, not the highspeed PT bus that the ECU usually interfaces with.  Not much of interest on the bimmerforum link either, that looks like again mostly the K bus.
I think removing the factory ecu will need a lot more work, there will be all kinds of wake up messages for various modules as well as probably checksums and counters and heartbeats to keep things happy.    I would suggest getting a cheap socket CAN device, install linux on an old laptop and start doing some basic reverse enginerering yourself while you still have a OEM ecu in place - savvycan is a good free software tool or linux has some basic stuff built in..  But how much of it (or any of it) the fury will be able to duplicate is a big unknown.
 

I dont think you will be able to get the tacho working if the factory ECU is still in place sending out 0 RPM all the time?  
The AC may be possible, but you need the correct info in the first place.  Your pasted text above suggests it maybe on ID 242, but then the loopbunny site doesnt even have a 242 ID but instead may show something related on 2D6 or 2E6, so you need to either sniff yourself or get more reliable data - you cant just do it by trial and error.