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jindakwa

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  1. @Adamw @Vaughan I got the error today in the morning. I think it only comes while starting the car and looks like when the battery is low coz that was the only different thing today in the morning.
  2. A good question that i have no answer to for now. I honestly just see the error under the ecu fault code tab as the only error. Am not sure when it occurs. I will try to be keen next time to catch it when it appears which am not sure how. I would think not under load coz last time it appeared, I deleted it, pushed the car to north of 6000 rpm and it hasn't popped up again till today.
  3. Yes i did set the base timing with a timing light. note that this error does not appear all the time. i would say doing logs, sometimes it will come and sometimes not. unfortunately all my past logs that i have saved don't have it. was hoping to find one that i can share with you now. Will pump up the thread whenever it comes. For now here is the tune. ST 246_1.pclr
  4. Thanks for the response. so I can conclude that my wiring is just fine, right ? When I take the trigger scope it looks okay all the time. see below. However I sometimes see on logs i have a trigger error. which worries me and reason i decided to ask to be 100% sure that my wiring is okay. Trigger Scope Log 2022-11-27 6;26;21 pm.llg
  5. Am using a link g4+ plug in ecu for ST 185 (gen 2 3sgte) to run st246 (gen 5 3sgte) which i just swapped in recently. main difference btwn the two is that ST 185 was a distributor type engine while ST246 is a cop. Car runs but has trigger error and am hoping i can get someone here running cop conversion on his gen 2 3sgte to confirm my wiring if correct or experts here. here is how i have wired the crank and cam sensors from the gen 5 engine into the ecu. 1. I connected the Crank positive wire to pin 13 of link ecu ( Trig 1 NE) as per the manual that came with the ecu. However the stock wiring describes this pin as rpm input from the distributor. So not sure why the manual call it trig 1. More reason am worried abt the wiring. 2. I have connected the cam +ve wire to pin 25 of link (trig 2 G1). 3. Connected the negative wires of both crank an cam to pin 39, ground signal (G-) . Can someone confirm if this is correct especially on the crank side where am not quite sure. am not sure if connecting the wire to NE is correct r i should move it G2 (pin 12 of link) which also comes from the distributor. Toyota manual describe the pins as follows; " CRANKSHAFT POSITION IS DETECTED BY THE PICKā€“UP COIL INSTALLED INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR. CRANKSHAFT POSITION IS INPUT AS A CONTROL SIGNAL TO TERMINALS G1 AND G2 OF THE ECU, AND RPM IS INPUT TO TERMINAL NE." PS: There is no mention of G2 (which is pin 12) in the link ecu manual even though the pin connects to the distributor. In fact the link manual says nc - not connected. Not sure if its is an oversight or in some models had it not connected. thanks
  6. Hey good people. i am still stuck with above. I'm now bordering frustration and disappointments. No matter what, this car does not want to start consistently when cold. it might start sometimes but 99% of the time it will not. I have done as many checks as I can think off. Moved from modelled to traditional, checked all my ground and added more ground to the block, changed ignition coils, spark plugs, fuel regulators, rechecked my wiring harness, rechecked my base ignition timing but still no successes. On the lucky days that it starts when cold, most of the time it will be on modelled fuel. I have hardly had any success starting it on traditional while cold. In addition, same tune that made it start yesterday may not make it start the following day (for instance one time i kept increasing the VE number to almost 127% for the car to start, the next time, i had to cut it to abt 52% to start hence the inconsistency am talking about lol). Now, After it starts on modelled, once warmed up, it runs lean and you may max out the VE cells at idle but still lean. Hence I prefer switching to traditional after it has warmed up (70 degrees and above ). Once warm, it will start on first crank on any map whether modelled or traditional fuel set up. I have even sort a professional as i thought perhaps i was the problem as i was learning to tune but still same thing. What am I missing ? What is there to be checked? Can it be software related ? if hardware, am trying to think what will make it start almost always while hot but not when cold. PS: today it refused to start completed on all the start maps i have had success with. am almost going mad.
  7. hahaha.. i will go ahead and order an aeromotive fpr and see what it says. hope it reads different from the tomei that i have to be at ease. Am also eager to discover what the issue might be. will confirm in due time.
  8. Adam what master fuel would u recommend. I tried 9 and still maxxed out. So wondering if i should go higher or lower. The help function doesn't talk much on this. secondly , i know the other adjustment should be done after the main fuel is tuned but one also need a starting car to tune the main fuel. So i think both are important to get them to a tentatively good values that can start and hold the car idling so that one can do tuning.
  9. Am running stock injectors. my engine is a 3s gte st246 - 540cc. Am not sure if the setting are correct since they were set by the vendor who sold me ecu and i should say he mostly specializes on 3sgte's so i trust his values somehow. See map attached below. this is after adjusting the base fuel pressure to 150 kpa. NB: I didn't get to change all the values in the VE table after changing the BFP hence some values are as had been adjusted when at 280 kpa hence the table is all over the place( i only changed values around starting and idling when i changed the BFP). Toyota ST246 engine in ST185 celica startup_3.pclr
  10. I should add am ruuning walbro 450 pump which is brand new and am positive abt it.
  11. Hi Fam Long post alert! I'm learning how to tune. I got a link G+ and been trying very much to read and learn with the help of support both from this forum and the vendor who sold me the ecu. Now here is my problem: 1. When cold, the base map will start the car after say 2 to three clicks. the values on the VE tables when cranking are abt 73-75: crank enrichment is abt 60s. Base fuel pressure is abt 280 kpa. However when hot, the engine cannot start whatsoever with those values on the VE table. So i have two maps to start the car depending with temperatures lol. i have to increase those numbers to about 127 start when hot. NB: I haven't done any tuning coz ofcos you cant do anything if the car is not starting. 2. After the car has started, it idles at about 40 kpa. Initial VE's were in 70s, however, its will run lean if i maintain this values. To make it idle at lambda of 0.9-1, I had to increase these VE numbers to almost 130s. And if I rev it up a bit, some sells goes lean even after maxxing out the VE numbers in those cells at 150. So I decided to move from modelled fuel set up to traditional with master fuel at 9 ms. This didn't help, same thing happens. keep maxxing out the VE table at idle or slight rev up. I did some research here and came across a post on an sr20 which had similar issue and Adamw had responded to it as follows in qoutes - "If you need to reduce your VE numbers then you need to make the ecu think there is less fuel flow or more air flow than there actually is. So you can reduce injector flow rate setting, reduce base fuel press setting, or increase engine capacity. No real advantage on which one you change. " I went to my base map changed the base fuel pressure from 280 kpa to 150 kpa and all of a sudden those numbers are too rich and I had to trim them down 55-65s to attain my target lambada of 1s at idle. Now even the VE values of starting when hot was changed from 126s to 73s after I changed the base pressure. This has left me totally confused on my understanding of base fuel pressure. The help button says, and I quote, "The Base Fuel Pressure is the fuel pressure in the fuel rail when the fuel pump is on, but the engine is not running". I di this when setting the base fuel pressure. It looks like either it doesn't matter or my fpr is bad? What is the experience with you all. I want to be sure before I order another fpr from aeromotive which are quite expensive . Below is a log of the car starting and running after changing the base fuel pressure to 150 kpa. note it was able to start even with VEs of abt 76s while previous it would have required the VE number to be in 130s for it to start if the Base fuel pressure was 280 kpa. In addition, idled way better and calm than before. Feel free to point out as many issues as you can as am learning and i promise to list them dwn and work on them. 22.11.2022_starting_2.llg
  12. thanks and all is now fine . Almost made go nuts.
  13. hello Adam the engine was able to start but after changing the map. I have noticed one more issue. I am not getting AFR readings on the screen, for instance the way you can see tps or map when tuning. I am using AEM 30-2310 wideband controller. I have set it as an Input on AN VOLT 4. The calibration table is CAL 4. I cant see how to assign but am assuming, intuitively that, they are automatically assigned i.e. an volt 4 goes with cal 4, an volt 1 >>cal table 1 etc. Is my assumption correct? if correct what could i be doing wrong ? Thanks
  14. Thanks Adamw. I have noticed one other issue on my base map. I have the link 4 bar map sensor but it seems its picking the 7 bar. hope this is what was causing the car not to start. will comb through it again to ensure all sensors are well calibrated and try again. Hope this time it starts.
  15. hello guys A newbie here. Am trying to start my car without success. Car cranks but does not start. Attached is the starting log, trigger scope, and the base map. hope someone can look at it and point me in the right direction. thanks in advance. SBP Base Map.pclr last last.llg Trigger Scope Log 2022-09-17 5;43;01 pm_last.llg
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