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LeNainCapable

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  1. Well my CAN 1 doesn't work as I have rev.1, does that mean I have to send my board back in order to use CAN1 because I can't use CAN2 ? I mean, my UEGO works fine, and even the dash works fine for the first few secs, it's just that errors are polluting the feed it seems then, no other way to remove the error limit and let it do as it wants ?
  2. Update : removed THW0 pin (pin 96 on linkecu help) from ecu (pinout states it's used to send ect data to a/c unit) still got the red flashing and unable to transmit dash2pro, back with config of 500kbps on network, uego still reads properly. Do I need to deactivate a 2nd pin that isn't mentioned?
  3. Hi Adam, That seems to be like it! I've tried just setting it back to oem (1mb, the ect string on 11000 bus) and errors stop, as soon as I go back to 500mbps it starts flashing red. My obdlink does not support 1mbps. Do you think I can try to just remove the oem pin from ecu?
  4. I have a jzx100x plug and play ecu, the v1 where the can1 isn't wired but can2 is fine
  5. Today I checked the wire from NZEFI and I indeed have 120 ohm resistance between can low and can high, I've pressed the heatwrap and I can feel the bump of the resistor at the end I removed some of the heatshrink-like sleeve to inspect wiring : no issues there either (it was cramped under the seat so I thought maybe some wiring is damaged but nope). Then I tried all combinations : always these same errors... I don't get it... Is there a way to just bypass the error count and let it rip ? Because I mean... Lambda I recieve, and obdlink too works when the ecu sends data, it just shouldn't stop Thank you very much
  6. alright so I have 120ohm average (between 90 and 150) on the OBD2 side when powered up and data flowing, and 60ohm when powered off, removing OBD2 doesn't fix the errors of DASH2PRO transmission everything still flashes red I'll remove dash tomorrow and check the cable itself. What would the next step be ? Assuming I have a resistor on the longer end
  7. Just updated the firmwire --> same issue Is it fine to have one or none ? Would too high of a resistance would cause errors ? I am unsure of which of my components have one ECU --> UEGO X --> [termination resistor of wiring] --> OBDLink My invoice from NZEFI is showing Termination Resistor:required so it's safe to assume they gave me one with one, I'll check tomorrow along with correct pins on wiring I'm unfortunately not yet to the point of soldering resistors so I can't be of much help. Splitting / joining wiring and doing clean terminals is fine though
  8. Thank you for the reply, I'll go updating the firmwire and tell you how it went This is my wiring, I used two NZEFI cables, and I made sure not to mix the can+/can- altogether, but I can check once again maybe ? Could that cause the issue ? Wire is 1m, and I think I have a termination resistor 120ohm on the long end where my OBD2 is plugged in OBD2 is wired as such with CAN high/low, ground and 12v being the ones from above. My 12v is switched input
  9. Hello Adam, Thank you very much, I did a few videos about the issue : part 2 : checking errors part 3 : testing by removing the lambda same error Please tell me if you need anything else Thank you very much CANnotworkinglog.llgx basemap74.pclx
  10. The fact that it was pretty convenient to be able to plug it to USB on any android tablet and run software from that. So far I was able to recieve data sent from CAN on my MX+, I can read my wideband data sent from my UEGO, however, when I do can setup and put "Transmit DASH2PRO" on ID 1000 on stream 1, and recieve wideband on stream 2, it only works a few seconds before ecu stops sending data. Once I click "Apply" again it works again for 2-3 seconds. I've tried saving, cycling power etc, but it won't stay on. I could make realdash work for 3 secs and see rpm move. I've also tried multiple sample rates 1 hz, 20hz, 100hz... won't matter :/
  11. Hi Adam, I was wondering : is there a planned update on activating the USB tuning cable data stream for G4X ? It sure feels like a step back :/ I have a G4X - Can I control ECU functions with a OBDLINK MX+ ? Thank you very much
  12. Anyone got the part number for the sensor ? I've got one output in 1/8BSPT on the 1jz and I'm looking to replace the stock "low pressure light" sensor by something that gives me temp & pressure Thanks
  13. Hello Adam, Thank you for the explanation, that does make sense. The example would be : 2000rpm, 10% throttle. If the 2000rpm/10%TPS is steady, no issues. But if it's referenced in KPA, it might advance, then we have less kpa, so it retards, so we have more kpa, so it advances... then fluctuating torque ? As my VE is still being tuned I think I'll try to first reference the MAP for vvti, and if I encounter these kind of oscillations I will try switching to TPS. I fear TPS might induce some jerkiness in the V.E. tuning, as for a given cell I won't know how much advance I actually run (aside of checking logs but still), I'll experiment with both as they should aim for roughly the same values with RPM, I can probably switch without throwing off the whole thing.
  14. Hi Vaughan, I've been looking into this to help affinate my VE over time, it's close but not perfect. So basically over time, CLL will populate the LTT tables by storing and averaging the CLL ? And, a few hours driving later, I can go back, and if say, the 100kpa, 3000rpm cell in the LTT is displaying +2%, and my V.E. for the same cell is at 80, then I have to add 2% so 81,6 ? Then the CLL shouldn't correct much and the LTT will be closer to 0 ? Thank you very much
  15. Thank you very much ! That allows for a lot of stuff, pretty cool. I'm not a fan of the airplane type dashboard with all the switches, maybe I'll try doing some kind of little rotating ones with variable voltage and then only allow start for say switch one = 4v and second switch = 6v for antitheft. I have to put more thoughts into that Plus wiring other stuff like boost target or backfires ON/OFF Neat, thanks
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