Tidi0x
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Posts posted by Tidi0x
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I am looking to build a canbus for my gtrlink for my wideband.
I am most likely going to create the twisted pair and put the 120r resistor at the end of the line, but I wanted to confirm that if I wanted to I could loop the can1 to can2 instead of running the resistor.
Also I notice the resistor needs to be a minimum of 1/4 watt is there a maximum? or suggested way wattage to use?
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On 4/8/2021 at 5:14 PM, Adamw said:
Those toyota studs are M12 to M8 from memory. I havent seen one for a long time but Im pretty sure the RB knock thread is some tappered pipe thread, something like 1/4bspt.
Thank you Adam, you are correct I received these today and although they thread in, it is a very loose fit because of the taper. I am debating utilizing Loctite 620 or RTV as a sealing compound to remove the loose fit.... or chop my OE sensors and tap them... Decisions... Thank you again for the input.
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Thank you Adam, Good suggestion I can give that a shot if what I ordered does not show up.
For reference If someone searches this up, I did order these... It is a thread in stud that adapts the larger hole down to an m8 stud.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-Knock-sensor-bolt-stud-adapter-1JZ-2JZ-RB25-1UZ-2UZ-CA18-3SGE-3SGTE/154341518979?hash=item23ef78ae83:g:oLoAAOSwLYRgRRTf
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Hello,
I am building my R33's Rb25det from the ground up, and with this I had wiring specialties produce a brand new harness, with this I decided it was a good idea to replace the stock narrow band knock sensors with the link knock sensors PN:LINK-101-0053 for my G4X.
My predicament is the fact that the Donut style sensor accepts a smaller bolt diameter than the standard location. I only see two options here show in my images below.
Reference, Hole 1 is a smaller, and an (I think) unused hole... Hole 2 is the stock location knock sensor hole.
1. Run the sensor in the non standard hole (hole 1) with a smaller M6 size bolt (I think that is the size). My worry here is that not matching the donut with a bolt to match the bore will reduce the effectiveness of the sensor, also the location is not ideal not being on Cylinder 2 rather cylinder 3 close to the other sensor. However the machined surface should provide good results.
2. Run the sensor in the stock location with a thread in size adapter. My worry with this is if the thread adapter is brass it could reduce the sensor effectiveness acting as an insulator, similarly a steel one might do the same.
Am I being overly cautious? The last thing I want is to get the build in the car and notice my knock sensors are not functioning appropriately.
Thank you for any feedback!
PC Link and Firmware 6.20 released
in G4x
Posted
I am not sure if this is an intended behavior of the G5 Software, When going to do a firmware update I wanted to cancel, and attempted doing so by clicking the X in the top right corner instead of "No", however the software proceeded with the firmware patching; this was repeatable with the reinstall selection. I am on PCLink version 7.3.11.