Sterling

I would recommend the Bosch Motorsport injectors from this page ending in number 116: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_67797771_Injection_Valve_EV_14.pdf They are high impedance and have significantly better resolution for tuning than the old school evo injectors. I'm running the VAG coils too which you can see in my pic above. I suggest increasing fuel pressure as well as the factory 3.0bar is a little low for a performance motor. As a race only motor I'm running 65psi fuel pressure and it worked well with those injectors. My motor has 12.5:1 compression and motorsport cams so it's a little different than the average street setup.

Adam - could the flyhweel sensor be used along with the cam sensor I pictured above to run sequential injection? Cruz177 - what are you motor specs?

There are no crank or cam sensors on an e30 m3, that sensor Adam posted is from the flywheel sensor which the motronic used on an e30 m3. There is a magnetic tab on the flywheel that motronic uses. to install g4+ (like I have a few others have too), you’ll need a crank trigger wheel and a new crank sensor and most common is to use an s38 cam trigger setup on the intake cam of the s14. Im using a crank trigger kit from VAC Motorsports and an s38 cam sensor setup. They are both magnetic even though they each have 3 wires. The third wire is a shielded ground. There are a number of threads on s14.net regarding cam and crank trigger adaptations. Almost everyone, regardless of which standalone ecu they are using, are using a version of the same setup. You can see my cam trigger on the intake cam in this pic, the crank sensor is down below the water pump but both wires are passing under the throttle bodies together

to update my post. Something caught my eye and I quickly knew exactly that it was user error. I switched the ground and signal wires on the harness connectors when installing and that's why it hasn't worked the whole time. Keep it simple right? Should have looked there first. Car is running 112 fuel right now and showing 49.9Hz which makes sense as the fuel has no ethanol. I'm going to dip it in some e85 while connected and test that for accuracy before I go back to the dyno.

I do understand what you're saying. What I'm asking is if there is a way to test the sensor with a multimeter or similar to see if it reads properly? Or, will the fuel I'm running through it just cause an error cause it's leaded until I switch it to something unleaded or ethanol based?

Here is a diagram I just found online to show how mine is plumbed in, exactly like the link below I pasted. So in theory wiring is alright, installed position is alright. I'd prefer to test the sensor somehow to make sure it's the sensor before I start buying new parts. What's next? http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/_media/ethanolsensor:article_flex3.png

I have the ethanol sensor set up to an ecu ground in the A loom, lower right corner pin (not sure of number) does it need to be on a sensor ground, would that matter? I had it on unshielded cable and it was flashing a temperature error for my tuner so we couldn’t run on e85 today. Going to rewire it with shielded cable and change loom routing and see if I find an improvement.

My tuner sorted it out for me today with a math channel calculation in the dash.

I don’t know how to check what ratio is being used on the ecu

G4+ ECU, lambda seems to be accurate on laptop when I live steam the ecu, but shows inaccurate on the dash For example, will show 12.5AFR on laptop and read about 8.5AFR on dash. Won’t have time to play with it for a day or two, but wasn’t able to fix this problem after a few tries Everything else is working properly, Dyno tune tomorrow afternoon

Adam - can you share how you did that? I’d like to have ethanol content on my AiM MXL2 as well

Understood. I bought it from a reputable dealer so I believe it's likely a real continental part. In any event I will leave the pullup off as that's how I'm getting my reading and take it from there. Thanks

I had 112 leaded fuel in the car at the time. Can you speak to the pullup resistor being switched on or off?

Ok, so car is running and ethanol sensor is a Continental. I have pullup resistor on DI7 turned ON per instructions and it shows nothing. For testing I turned the pullup sensor OFF and now I'm getting a reading. I've attached a map. Car is going in for tuning next week so there are some loose ends on it, but you can see what's going on and let me know if I made an error or not. Thanks E30 M3 Race 4.18.21.llg

Not sure yet, haven't had the sensor working and the car running at the same time. Will update when I do

Adam, How do you setup the input latch on this configuration. On or off? Thanks

Also showing a continental sensor that isn't reading properly. DI is in place, so is 14v power. Does it go to sensor ground or splice to a typical chassis ground? Can't recall how mine is hooked up, going to check on it today.

In my case they all run through the main relay because the main relay powers pin A5 and splices into injectors and coils. I’ll add ethanol content to that tomorrow. thanks

Currently have my g4+ xtreme getting power to the +14v (pin 5 I think) on the A Loom, and have the coils and injectors spliced I to that wire as well I added an ethanol content sensor and ran that to the 14v (pin 5) on B Loom but it doesn’t seem to be working. Question is: Should they all be sharing the A Loom pin 5 or do I move the injectors and coil power to B Loom and change some settings? Just want to make sure no stored voltage from coil or injector back feeds ecu thanks

You nailed it Adam. Swapped to can2 and it’s communicating properly. Now that I look at the pin out on the harness again it seems so obvious, wish it occurred to me earlier. thank you for the help! Dave

The only caveat is that the motor is not running yet, its possible the dash will not show any values until the car is running. I can have it running tomorrow, but I was working on dash config and communication via Link while waiting for some parts. I'd at least like to see that the ECU and dash are communicating with each other. Thanks in advance for the help Map attached from G4+E30 M3 - ID1050x-FF-Rev1.pclr AiM config file: MXL2.zconfig

So you’re thinking possibly DI 9 and 10 we’re not set to off? I’ll look at that tomorrow. I followed the instructions on how to get Link and AiM to communicate and I either did it wrong or DI’s are still on. Hopefully it’s the latter, will confirm and post results here tomorrow

Following up on this, I think I screwed up this connection. I went an ran the Can+ / Can- to the DI's on the Link connector and I'm not getting any communication from the Link to AiM dash. I'm now realizing that in my wiring frenzy those are Digital Inputs and how could an ECU output a signal when I have it wired to an input? I guess I had hoped I could just hardwire it into the harness but looking at the pinout options it seems that's probably incorrect. Is the CANF connector required to make this work? I watched the video on mating the dash (mxs version) to the ecu and that's what he used, oversight on my part? Thanks

Running g4+ extreme and realize my innovate Lc-1 is rather old and considering an upgrade. What’s the preferred lambda controller? Also prefer a simple setup that easily integrates and doesn’t require a ton of “extra” parts or software to setup Thanks!

This is great news, makes life much easier. Run the temp signal to a temp input and I’m good. Thanks Adam!