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02wrx

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Everything posted by 02wrx

  1. I haven't ran into any front mount's on those that don't require removing the bar completely or at least come with a replacement. You could make a air to water intercooler so you wouldn't have to mess with the crash bar since it would mount like the tmic. The heat exchanger and electric pump would mount easily off the crash bar with a couple brackets.
  2. 02wrx

    Subaru Speed g4x

    I've used the vss and dccdpro kits from both iwire and straight from dccdpro without problems on multiple cars with 6 speed swaps. If you get the kits from iwire they come as a plug and play. https://iwireusa.com/products/vss-pro-with-iwire-plug-and-play-wiring-harness Another option is this Panic Made Display with built in gps https://panicmade.com/accessories/p/panic-made-multi-function-display-mfd
  3. I had this problem on my v7-9 g4x ecu when they first came out it ended up needing a ferrite beaded cable. Tried 5 different laptops and only 1 would stay connected under full load on the dyno which was 8-10 years old. With the ferrite cable the other 4 newer lap tops stayed connected too.
  4. You have to press in the connector ends while tightening it down with a ratchet. If you don't the ends tend to push out slightly and not make full contact on the Nissian connectors.
  5. For some reason I thought the hanger for the 02-07 radium hanger was built similar to the 8-14 where it incorporated a check ball. I could see the need for a surge tank for high-g extended cornering. The factory tank is already baffled around the pump so you technically could put fuel cell foam around it to prevent sloshing but for dedicated track car I would opt for a surge tank in the spare tire well. Fuel volume is the biggest factor when running out of fuel you can run a 450lph pump but it can only flow so much through a 5/16" or 3/8" line. I've seen factory ecu's especially when 20 years old, parts failing, and pissed off will pull ignition timing even with no knock event. Even with knock control turned off or heavily desensitized sometimes they will still pull timing. Of coarse the Link is going to pick up power when compared to circumstances like that which is what I think your tuner is talking about. I've worked on ej205 cars making 500whp with factory ecu's it really depends on the setup and what the person wants. The Link is better all round from how versatile it is and the support behind it. Which is why I would recommend people buy it over a new factory ecu.
  6. You don't really need a surge tank on these when you can buy a radium fuel pump hanger that does the same thing. It's better to have a single pump setup especially on a street car unless you go through the trouble of setting up fail safes to shut the car off or limit rpm before it goes lean under power. The multi pump setups are failure prone from my experience from all the drift cars I've ended up working on with fueling related problems that have to get pulled off the dyno. You would need to watch amperage draw from each pump and figure out how to monitor that on a Link. Running 2 pumps in a surge tank with one going out you won't know it's going lean until it's under boost where more fuel volume is required. You can run a walbro 450 and make past 600whp on e85. My 02 wrx with 300,000 on the shell has a 2.5 hybrid build using JE pistons to make it a true 2.5 even with the 2.0 heads, Blouch 18g ball bearing turbo, id1050's stock lines and rails, dw 300 fuel pump, intake, exhaust, cobb 4 bar map sensor so it can run speed density, V7 Link G4x with gauge art can gauge display, ect. It is making 324whp at 14.5psi on our shops DynoJet dyno with very conservative timing. On 18-20 psi and more timing it should be past 350whp on 91 pump gas. With e85 it should hit around 400whp. On the stock clapped out factory ecu with a accessport running maf based my maf was maxed out at 4.95 volts while running 20psi and only making 317whp. The Link fixed hesitation issues I had been dealing with on the factory ecu and other weird idle control problems. Another lower mileage car at the shop I work at with a very similar build to mine made 377whp on 91 pump gas on the stock ecu running maf based and 21-22psi of boost. I would agree with some of what your tuner said but it's not going to create huge power just by adding a Link to it if the factory is working perfectly. I could see it making 20-40hp more like mine if the factory ecu has problems.
  7. A vf39 on a ej205 with injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, and intake will make 300whp using open source or a accessport. With stock ej205 injectors they will be maxed out around 260-270whp. If your in Seattle Washington I would make the drive down to Oregon to have Jarrard tune it either with the accessport or with the link. Seriously is worth it he's been tuning subaru's for 20 years now. His tuning business name is PDX Tuning. He sold his shop to Cobb which was later Bought by Surgeline. To get ahold of him call Superior Soobie and Import. With running the Link I would add a can lambda and go speed density by using the cobb 4 bar map sensor kit with a gm iat.
  8. On the OEM ecu I have seen quite a few ej255/ej257 intake cam sensor failures causing weird symptoms. Another problem to look for is the avcs sprocket is sticking and not moving properly causing the camshaft to be advanced. The avcs solenoids also are a wear item since they start sticking too.
  9. On my bosses 86 trans am running a g4x exteme he had to wire in 22uf capacitor to the can lambda wiring which cured his connectivity problem. He tried wiring it multiple ways including straight from the battery for testing purposes and nothing fixed it until he added that capacitor. It also seams to be a laptop problem too on some cars. My 02 wrx running a v7 g4x would disconnect every time under boost using a lenovo e14, lenovo x1 carbon version 7, and a older hp laptop all running windows 10. Test drove with a 8 year old lenovo running windows 7 and it stayed connected. Once i got a Ferrite beaded cable i have had no problems.
  10. I got a ferrite tuning cable from Jason and it fixed my problem. Been driving for a week with the new cable and it hasn't disconnected. For anyone having this problem i would try adding a clip on ferrite ring to each end of the cable.
  11. Have the same issue on my 02 wrx running a v7 g4x plug in with a can lambda module. When i hit 10psi+ under WOT pclink freezes and i have to unplug the usb cable and plug in to reconnect. It also stops the internal data log when it does this. Jason the VP for Link in North and South America uses the dyno at the shop i work all the time since he use to own the dyno and lives 20 minutes away. With my car on the dyno or on the road using Jasons older lenovo laptop running windows 7 it didn't seem to have a problem and never froze/disconnect. With my lenovo e14 laptop running windows 10 with intel i5 10th gen processor it will disconnect on the dyno or on the road every time you go WOT and hit 10psi+. Also tried my bosses lenovo x1 carbon 7th gen running windows 10 and pretty much the same intel processor which showed it had the same exact problem as my laptop. My bosses laptop works with no problems on his 86 trans am running a vortec 350 using a g4x extreme-x. We built a customers 02 wrx very similar to mine running a g4+ and haven't had a issue with it.
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