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Link2ThePast

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  1. Oh ok. I'll see what I can find to help with that process. I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction
  2. Hi Adam, I took the time to research and re-watch the HP academy videos to see what I should look for and what I should concentrate on for initial idle tuning like you said. After disabling ISC control and only editing the fuel base, it's start/warm up compensations, 2 ignition cells, and the base position table, I have the car running at above .9 lambda pretty consistently although with a small bounce. I found another post from a user who has the same thing and another member mentioned the next step is open loop idle. You also mentioned that would be the next step above. If you have the
  3. Got it, will do! Thanks Adam!
  4. Hi Adam, I got it to stop dying whenever I come to a stop. I adjusted APS/TPS lockout to 0.2 from 2 / RPM lockout to 2500 / MAP lockout to 15kPa and that seemed to do the trick. This is with the ISC in closed loop from the suggestions you and the other members made above. If you want to take a look at a log of it driving around and the resulting map, I've linked it: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1tjPbOCMEOVSSGdWUL9H7A80KVel4SyJv?usp=sharing Also sorry for forgetting to address the alternator issue you brought up; I installed an underdrive pulley to it but will be takin
  5. Reporting back. I adjusted the Idle values according to what you guys suggested and put the in the table values from adams snip. It can idle indefinitely now. The next problem I'm facing is that it dies when coming to a stop unless I blip the throttle continuously. I tried adjusting ovverrun fuel cut because I can see it go super lean when I let off throttle; I disabled speed lockout thinking that would help and tried IAT fuel correction when that didn't either. Car still dies. I thought maybe the IAT base position values were too low but that just leans out AFR when I idle and do
  6. Hi guys, I'm venturing to learn how to tune after upfitting a turbo to my 3rd gen mr2. I found a Vi-Pec map for this car from another member on the forums on an old post. I edited everything to suit my application but of course copied the main fuel/ignition/Idle speed tables. Right now I am just trying to get the car to idle indefinitely and will then attempt the next steps in the process. Currently, the car cannot hold idle past a couple of seconds. It turns over just fine, and slowly drops in RPM until it dies. Lambda is around .8 when this happens and I've tried adjusting the
  7. Ok so I figured out what my issue was. I had ignition switch supplying the ECU/external sensors, thinking it worked like the switched power portion of the harness, and had the VVT (+) connected to the switched power. Still don't understand why it backfed but I know it doesn't work like that. For anyone who needs it, here's how I have it connected with everything working now:
  8. ok I have an update. I narrowed the problem down to the VVT solenoid back feeding. The ISC now works. I have it configured as shown in blue. In this state, it is always connected to 12V directly on the (+) side but won't complete the circuit until the ignition is turned on. No fault with the ISC. If I connect the VVT solenoid (+) side to the node shown in blue, I get back feeding and a steady click until ignition is on. I'd like to connect the (+) side to ignition switch power since it is a switched source but it in order for the ISC to work, it also has to be connected to the ignition sw
  9. Right, I understand that. From how I set this up (with the faults), everything is powered through the main relay which is powered by the ignition switch. What I don't understand is why after bridging that yellow wire, which in the original configuration get's supplied constant 12V through the OEM ECM but not until the main relay is triggered through the ignition switch, is now backfeeding(?) the XtremeX If I have it configured only to get power through switched relay power, wouldn't it power down when the ignition switch is off and the key removed?
  10. Ok so just an update Adam. I tested the connectors and I only got voltage (around 10V) from the ECU side on each connector. So I bridged my main relay (which is also bridged with ignition switched power on the connector box I made) with the yellow wire and it got rid of the faults. I also tested at 10z and tested the pins. Fixed! I have now another issue where I get back feeding if I leave it like this. I'm only guessing since these are solenoids, the ECU did not turn off after ignition was off and the ECU powered off normally when I snipped the wire jumping them. The faults returned of c
  11. I'll have to get back to you on this one Adam. I have to get a new multimeter since the last one died and stores are closed in the US right now. For now, assuming it's supply with no 12V, then I have to figure that out on the OEM harness/OEM adapter side. Assuming it's AUX wire, what would be the next step?
  12. Hmm. So currently, the VVT solenoid power is bridged with ECU power, as well as the CAN lambda and I forgot what else. If the CAN lambda is getting power, the solenoid should as well right? As for the ISC, if it turns out I'm not getting 12v from pin 2, then should I do something about the yellow wire that I circled? (meaning power it from the ECU power) Or would both not give me 12V in the event there is no supply?
  13. Would you mind explaining why both pins would be 12v for the VVT, just so I understand? Same for pins 1/2 on the ISC plug? I thought both would pull to ground. Does this mean they should both be set to active high side or am I misunderstanding the help file?
  14. Ok so neither one would click when set at 10Hz and test mode set to on(PWM). I'm not sure why either would return the error. My guess for the VVT is that the solenoid is not getting power? Is that why the fault would come on when set to active low side and turns off when set to active high side? Would the same apply to the ISC? There is a PIN that gets eliminated on the jumper adapter I used (yellow wire). Might I need to jump that one with the ecu power? I attached snips of the wiring diagram and circled the relevant lines to make it easier to follow Edit: I added a 4th picture be
  15. Hi Adam, I'll try it out. No I don't hear any clicking. There is a faint buzzing sound I hear in the bay but I don't think that's what you're talking about and neither solenoid felt like it was moving when I put my hand to them. I'll try putting both tests to on(PWM) at 10Hz to see if I can hear anything. Should I leave them in low side active? Thanks by the way!!
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