Sir Alfred of Hors III

Alright, need a few more bits then for cop haha. Thanks for that. Will get the other bits started and the cop once the pins arrive. Think that should cover all my bases now haha. Thanks heaps for all your help

Sorry to bump so late, just wanting to check my wiring with the new setup. So, I've opted for a boost controller, an ethanol content sensor and cop. And a wideband obviously. So, to make sure I have it right there. I can use ign 5-8 for the signal of the CoP, save cutting original harness. I can then use a relay from the battery (or otherwise just ignition switched power from somewhere) for the power. Then just ground. Then for boost solenoid and ethanol content, I would use analogue volt wires for inputs? and same deal for power and ground Then for wideband, use can2, and the white connector to dtm adaptor, then power and ground as per the others. Nothing special I'm missing there I assume? Don't need to run specifically off ign1-4 for cop? If that's all gucci, I'll get the wiring going asap. Bought a whole bunch of dtm plugs and tools finally, so should be able to get some neat dtm connections happening. Hopefully make it all quick connect, and not messy af

For anyone who finds this in google, the distributor was the issue. Got a brand new one off a friend, and it ran on the stock ecu. Rich as all hell, but it ran (1000cc life). So, got it timed now, Still isn't running, but is close. Does try to fire as soon as you turn the key, then nothing. So, at least I know distributor is good, and it can run. think it's about time for the tuner to do the rest haha Edit: got it running. It wasn't just the distributor. The intake manifold had a hole in it, and was sucking air through there, causing it to rev to the moon. Haven't put the link back in just yet, but I have a sneaking suspicion that was the issue. Will update if it works now

no bingo there either. Still getting trigger errors and no spark. Doesn't spark with stock ecu seemingly. Something is up. Might have to sit on it and give it to the tuner to deal with at this point haha. Dude knows hondas inside and out seemingly, so should be able to find the issue. I'll inb4 I've forgotten something, or missed something and not realised. Thanks for your help man

Don't know why I missed it before, but solo white mark is tdc, triples are various points btdc. Some of the diagrams also show another point to measure from. Will test for spark tonight anyway, see if the coil was the answer. And if not, go scouring. Either way, ty for your help, seems it's not ecu related, which narrows it down a lot haha Edit; Nevermind, that's cam position sensor apparently. Tdc is deeper inside. Right behind the coil thst is easily removable It's a learning experience. Always something new to learn on this, which is nice

Alright, so, replaced the coil while I was in there. But yeap, definitely off. Also wasn't sparking from coil spring to ground on test, thus replacing coil. Still nothing with proper coil. Pics; first one with the sensor thing lined up to the middle of the hole is middle of the three lines on crank pulley. Other one is lined up with the single line further off, which might be btdc? Don't worry about the belts, they have managed somehow lmao. But yeah, it's odd that it was all set up before, and this is all mechanical, isn't it? Unless one of those dizzy bits can be adjusted by the ecu?

I'm fairly sure the toothed thing is buried deep under all the components. Unless it's this one, which is just under the black cover (stock picture for effect) In the meantime, I will test the spring and ign 1 test, see if anything happens. At the very least, that might tell me whether the distributor finally shat the bed. It is an ebay one, so was kinda destined to die, apparently. Only thing I can think of that might have caused any issues, is potentially the cap being left off for a few weeks, but it was in the garage with no water access. I do have a spare coil from my other distributor (oem one), which I think I said above, but was worried if it's settings related, it might blow that too. But, you said settings seem fine, so might try that worst case. But, if the distributor itself is the issue, time to wire in the CoP conversion, hah. Anyway, will be back soon with an update

So, the weird thing is this hasn't been touched since it was running. But it looks fine. Albiet abit of a dark mark on it. Did give it a buff to see if that was it. Bottom left is 1, top left is 3, top right is 4, bottom right is 2. The points on the cap look fine

helps if I post the right log PC Datalog - 2022-06-19 5;47;14 pm.llgx

Hopefully that's what you're after haha .pclx TriggerScopeLog.llgx

Yoo, So, just in the process of getting the car ignition and base stuff all sorted so I can make sure everything works before giving it to a tuner. So, we went to set up the trigger btdc stuff, and discovered there is 0 spark. Triggers are set as the manual specs. everything is set up how it is specified to be in the manual. rising rate distributor, 1342 firing rate, etc etc. Fuel is currently off. Trigger 1 and 2 status are on. rpm is 200~, there is trigger errors though. Unsure on what is causing them yet. did think it was from trigger setup not properly timed yet. But nop, no spark. ignition cut isn't on, rpm limit isn't on. attached trigger scope. Unsure if it's reading too many triggers, or I'm not reading it right Distributor is also getting very warm while ignition is on. hasn't been a time where it was connected whilst the distributor was in opposite polarity. At some point I will give it to a tuner to sort, but just making sure I haven't got any bad parts first TriggerScopeLog.llgx

Having a look around, found another one with an ek and similar looking scenario. Looks like it is high level, so booster it is. Cheers for your help as per usual, always got the goods. Both now and in the past haha

Sorry to bump so late. Been in talks with a friend, and he's said oem dizzy would be best, and agrees with you. He's supplying me with a bunch of parts to get the turbo swap all ready, but he wants to check what the best method is for CoP conversion. I've been scouring the forums a little bit for info regarding it with oem dizzy. Seems it should be fairly easy to wire in. Just wire up the coils, set the ecu, pull the unneeded bits from the dizzy and off we go. But, I've seen pretty much only one person say rpm gauge doesn't work. Was ages ago, and that it needed a tach booster. Is that still a thing? Or rather, is that a thing for obd2a? Just trying to suss out all the options and things I need, and what wiring needs to be done, so I'm ready to go as soon as I get the parts and time. Friend can get me some or most of the parts I need to rebuild my oem dizzy. Current ebay one probably won't be as good for signal no doubt lmao.

From my understanding, it's mainly because the only real way to go with the hondas is the oem distributor, cause it seems the aftermarket scene is full of duds. No idea why, but apparently they either leak straight away or shortly into life, or just fail. And because oem is the only way to go, and rebuilding is getting harder and harder, doing this is a good way to avoid bad seals and bearings and what not. That and the internal parts not being the most accurate, so this is about the same, but at least puts the ignitor/ coil on top, making it better and what not. Plus also gets you with the whole not dealing with aftermarket distributor seals and stuff. I've been looking around for options, but it seems either rebuilding and running a cover (though I'm struggling to find the parts needed to rebuild, and local honda can't get anything bar the rotor, cap, coil and inducer. No bearing, seals etc. Could potentially get the bearing from a local bearing shop), or running the epm. It does seem like a good option at the least if it does work, cause that way you don't need to worry about distributor bearings and seals shitting the bed hardcore, and messing up timing and stuff. But, I suppose that's also a potential for the epm maybe? I dunno. Just seemed like the best way to go from what I could find, aside from the t1 cam trigger. But the cam trigger thing made me wonder how it'd do crank timing, whether you'd need a crank timer as well or something, or if it does that as well on the cam gear. And then what you'd use to cover the hole from the dizzy. But, ideally leaving the oem dizzy would be my aim. Just cause of how hard it's getting to source them, and get good replacements and/or parts to fix it (at least from my poor search skills)

Only issue with that is the stock distributor is basically about to explode/ seize. I can rebuild it, but figured the epm would be a much easier option. I suppose there is otherwise using a cam gear trigger point. That's another thing that's sold and is apparently more reliable/ accurate