arbartz95

I know this is a bit more of an advanced thing to need to do, but has anyone successfully implemented a message checksum in a custom transmitted CAN message, or has Link been able to implement a firmware release that incorporates checksums for a specific vehicle? (i.e. if I knew everything that had to be implemented, could it be included as a CAN "Mode"?

I've got a FuryX that I'm looking at using for my Turbo V-Twin project this winter. The bike is a 60deg V-Twin that has those very small NBO2 sensors at the ports from the factory. When I turbo it I intend to run a single WBO2 post turbo for full time Closed Loop Lambda. However, I'd like to retain the two Port NBO2 sensors for Cylinder Trimming at light loads and anywhere I'd be commanding Lambda 1. I guess, 1) is that even possible? and 2) is it even worth it?

Interesting, I thought that you'd have to include APS, since otherwise it'll always be trying to target a high boost level in the manifold, which my gut says would result in poor driveability on tip-out (although that's my gut feeling, probably would be just fine). Especially given that the turbo has such a tight A/R I figured it might try to spool more than desired at part throttle applications. I should've mentioned, I plan to include a pre-throttle pressure sensor (located pretty close to the throttle inlet, so after the intercooler) and target boost around that. Trying to do something similar to how the EcoBoost engines work with maintaining a slightly higher Throttle Inlet Pressure than Manifold Pressure while at part throttle conditions to help reduce lag. Interesting. I just figure if the OEMs are doing it, there must be a sizeable advantage since I'm sure they are more expensive. I'll stick to pneumatic for the time being then. Just always like having more range of control authority when possible. Thanks for the reply!

Warning, long post. Looking for lots of advice since this is my first time diving into boost control. I'm looking to implement driver selectable boost/power with my FuryX. Not too important, but I will be using a G25-550 with 0.49A/R housing, which has a 1.0Bar calibrated wastegate actuator. Which means I can't get below 1.0Bar of boost. Ideally I'd like to go E-Wastegate as I believe the new F150 EcoBoost EWG actuators will bolt right up to this turbo, but the G4X series don't have a way to support that yet I think. So right now I'm trying to figure out the best way to get selectable boost/power. Really want to be able to simulate this engine N/A as close as possible on the lowest setting, then do something like roughly 20HP+ per increment on the switch. My current thought process is to use the E-Throttle 1 Target table to change the Throttle Target based on the Boost Target. This is just a roughed in map to demonstrate what I'm talking about. Effectively cap the throttle position to limit the overall mass flow of air to simulate boost levels lower than 1Bar. Above 1Bar the full throttle resolution is permitted, and the delivered power is managed by the boost control strategy. After the E-Throttle limiting, I still plan to use closed loop boost control, but I'm not sure what the best way will be to utilize it to select the boost I want. I thought it was a bit odd that the default 3D tables were indexed on MGP and RPM. RPM makes sense, but what's the reasoning behind the other default index on MGP? (I know I can change it, but want to understand the why it's the default.) I think I'll want to change the Y-Axis from MGP to APS, and then setup Boost Target 2 to linearly ramp from 0kPa @ 0% APS to 300kPa @ 100% APS, with a ramp down at low engine speeds. (In reality I'll likely tweak the target boost vs RPM to try and achieve a flat torque curve, but I have to start here at least.) Boost Target 1 table would be 0kPa across the board I think, or 100kPa across the board since I know I can't really target below that anyways, not sure there. Aside from needing to figure out the best way to setup the target boost axis', I'm not sure if it's best to use Interpolate Between or use the GP Boost Trim Tables to achieve my selectable boost/power goals. I'm leaning towards Interpolate Between, as then I can directly map the Boost Dial to the blend factor. I could then tweak this from being linear to something else to achieve my target power goals with each dial position. Any and all advice is appreciated! Looking to learn here as always. Thanks!

I'm guessing I've missed it, but I could not find any documentation around the interface circuit surrounding the Analog Inputs on a FuryX. At a minimum I'd like to know what the pull down (or pull up, but I'm guessing only the Temp inputs are pull up) resistance is for the inputs. Idea is that if I have a sensor which has a larger than 5V output range, I could add a single series resistor if I know the internal pull down resistor and create a divider.

I'm using the Engine Cycle Counter for things like post start fueling adjustment and warmup tables as the X Axis (with Coolant Temp as the Y Axis). Currently the Cycle Counter only appears to reset with power cycle of the ECU. If it could reset whenever the engine stalls, that would be very helpful. Making the reset conditions for the cycle counter adjustable would be very nice as well.

Awesome, thanks Adam! That's exactly what I needed to know.

Yeah that's my understanding as well from the help file. However, if it's calculating differential fuel pressure and it thinks the fuel pressure is 400kPa from the sensor, while it is in fact closer to 300kPa (gauge pressure) then it won't be injecting enough for the actual differential pressure. Or at least that's my current train of thought. Confirmation of if the fuel pressure input needs to be absolute pressure or gauge pressure is what I need to know.

I picked up an Absolute Pressure Sensor (Honeywell PX2AN2XX150PAAAX) for my FPR, not a Gauge Pressure Sensor, since in my mind with the goal of a Rising Rate regulator to keep a constant differential pressure across the injectors, and since the plenum side of the injectors is measured with an Absolute Pressure Sensor, I'd want to use an Absolute Pressure Sensor on my FPR for the "FP Sensor" based Fueling mode. However, I'm thinking now that it should perhaps be a Gauge Pressure sensor (to be more specific, it should probably be a Vented Gauge), since I'm needing to enter unreasonably high values in the VE table to get the engine to run well. As well as the VE Table being indexed on MGP, not MAP. So what is the "right" sensor type when using the FP Sensor based Fueling mode, and if the Absolute sensor isn't the right type, can I make it work with a math function? Thanks!

Just to follow up, I got an ignitor, and she fired up! +250deg was the correct offset. Thanks again!

+12V to IGN was 0.8Ohms, so you were right, there is no Ignitor. First time I've come across 3 wire coils without an internal ignitor. So, that being said, it sounds like I'll need an ignitor module to get going here. I guess the OEM ECU must have had the IGBTs and Ignitor circuit built into the ECU itself. And yeah, could still be 360deg out, but at least I know my timing isn't off from that. Thanks a ton for the help! Learn more everyday...

Yeah, I'm fairly certain they do. They are 3-Wire Delphi coils. Factory wiring had +12V, GND, IGN. I decided to try the timing light on my truck ('04 Silverado) just to see if it works, and it worked, but was visibly missing some pulses, so I'm going to assume it's a timing light quality issue and not consider it too much. (Need to get a better timing light in the future...) I went back and tried wrapping the coil wire extension I picked up (so I could have something to get the timing light inductive pickup around), around the inductive pickup twice and could get somewhat consistent flashes, enough that every time it flashed I could see my timing mark was dead on. Pulled the plugs, cranked, saw fuel vapor. Disconnected the injectors, pulled plugs and let sit on the exhaust, and saw sparks (albeit, "weak" looking). So I'm back to thinking I have something messed up in the setup. Leaning towards it maybe being the Spark Edge. I'm hesitant to switch the Spark Edge from falling to rising edge for fear of killing the coils, but at this point if I had it wrong I would've likely already burnt them out pretty good. Going to sleep on it and see if there is something stupid I'm missing then try some more stuff tomorrow.

Alright I got a timing light and might have a clue why it's not firing. I can barely get the timing light to work. When I put the Ignition 1 output into test mode, the timing light flashes expectedly. However when I go to crank the engine to actually check timing, it barely works, might get a flash here or there. This is leading me to think I have weak spark, which I'm hoping it just a calibration issue I screwed up, since these COP units and plugs are pretty much brand new. Have you seen this before, any thoughts?

Thanks for the quick response! I hadn't considered the direct spark factor in my considering to remove cam sync to narrow down issues... I added that back in, and made the changes you recommended. I tried both -110 and +250, they are in the log attached. -110 was done first, and heard some pops (much like I had heard before), but this time I saw spikes in the MAP signal, and it still would not run. +250 was done second, and it just cranked continuously, with no pops or any signs of combustion. I think -110 is the right starting point, now I think I just may be needing to check everything with a timing light. Interestingly, for the first time I've seen positive Ignition Value Angles that looked right when set to -110, so I think it's getting there. Any tips or is checking everything with a timing light while cranking the next step you think? ECU Log 2021-05-9 5;50;03 pm.llgx

So, this is my first time using a Link ECU (FuryX), and my first time with this particular engine, so I'm very likely doing something wrong here. The engine is a Polaris 2.0L, and has a 36-1 trigger wheel, with TDC on Cyl 1 occurring 11 teeth after the gap. It has a cam wheel as well, however, it's quite odd. It looks identical to the wheel shown here: https://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/media/global/products-and-services/commercial-vehicles/powertrain-solutions/natural-gas/camshaft-position-sensor/product_data_sheet_camshaft_position_sensor.pdf So for right now I've just set Trigger 2 Sync Mode to None until I can get it to run on just the crank wheel. I've attached a high speed ECU log, and a Trigger Scope log of cranking. RPM is extremely messy for the first second, but I assume that's just it trying to get sync, it then smooths out to a cranking speed that seems right (just under 300RPM). I get no trigger errors other than when I stop cranking. It seems to be fine, but the Ignition Angle sits around 0deg, and oscillates with the MAP signal down to -2deg. I get pops out of the exhaust, which makes sense given the angle. What I'm not sure of is why that is occurring. So I'm thinking it's either a triggering issue, or some other value which I've missed. Thanks! ECU Log 2021-05-9 4;15;29 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog2.llgx