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MartinS

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  1. That worked beautifully. Using the virtual Aux as compressor control and then bumping the TP from 1.5 to 2.5% with AC on made the biggest difference. With that, the overrun went from dropping to a 450 rpm near stall to 700 rpm at the lowest. I'd tried a 2.5% baseline previously but then idle was too high with AC-off. I will rewire to take advantage of the compressor delay but, honestly, this setup has a barely perceptible rpm waver when the AC is turned on so it's already very good. With the idle ignition table tweak, it pretty much drops to the set 850 rpm AC-on idle on the overrun and doesn't budge. Maybe 800 for a fraction of a second. Aggressive slope for AC-on, mild slope for AC-off works perfectly. Thanks Adam!
  2. That's great! I'll try with a virtual Aux for now and re-wire when I'm able. The idle ignition table idea is excellent! Nothing like that had even crossed my mind. I'd been trying to accomplish this by making the +side very aggressive but it only seemed to work to a certain point as the crossover in the '0' column was problematic with the big jump from 0-100 not being a very stable part of the curve. Thanks Adam, I'll try these today.
  3. I saw that table but when I read the help file it says I need an auxiliary out controlling AC compressor clutch. I didn't wire that way instead splitting the 12V from the AC clutch control relay: one limb to the clutch, the other to a digital input. Because of that I thought I couldn't use this table without a re-wire and I'm currently away from home with the vehicle and don't really have the tools/facilities to do the rewire until I get it home.. However, just thinking about it, is this where I could use a virtual Aux out assigned to AC clutch or could I just assign an unused Aux to the AC clutch but not actually hook it up at this point? Would this allow me to use this function?
  4. Hi, Subaru H6, running well with good drivability overall. Only issue is stalling with AC on the overrun. When pushing in clutch to downshift (up shifting am back on the throttle before the revs drop much) the engine always slows to the point the oil light comes on, initially was stalling 2/3 times before recovering initially, with my tuning I've got it to about 1/5 times it stalls. I've tried several things: I've increased the baseline throttle position from 1.5% to 2.0% (higher and the idle is too high without AC) with a bump to 4% below 500 rpm. This has helped. I have played with idle mixture but in an AFR range from 12-15, it really makes very little difference, overall happiest in the 14.4-14.8 range. AC 'on' injector time increase is 0.5 ms. I've adjusted the ignition idle control to be much more aggressive with below target RPM: base idle timing is 10 degrees, I now have the + side of the idle control table set 10 degrees at idle, 16 degrees at 100 rpm below target, then 18, 20, 22 for each of the next 100 rpm steps below idle target. More aggressive advance seems to make little difference (up to about 25 degrees anyway). As noted, this leaves me with the oil light always flickering when pushing in clutch from any RPM over about 1800 and stalling about 1/5 times. What more can I do to stop the stalling?
  5. Fuel pressure >35psi. Spark plugs carbon on rim with whitish deposit on electrodes. No single plug is different colour. I've tried richening the mixture but then it runs rough with a richer mixture. When removed from the engine prior to bottom end rebuild, plugs had minimal pinkish deposit of good mixture. At that time the engine was running pretty much perfectly until my first rebuild spun a rod bearing...just plain old bad luck according to my machine shop. Same plugs, same coils, same injectors and wiring, same ECU and tune, same top end. Spent the weekend hardwiring the engine wiring loom to the ECU (was using the Subaru engine plug and socket original to the engine, some of the 32ish small sockets were beginning to cause fail as they don't like being unplugged and plugged in more than a few times it seems...this was the cause of the intake cam position sensor signal failure as well lost oil temp signal). I was hoping this was the source of the issue. Obviously I've reached the limit of my diagnostic abilities on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Subaru EZ36, new rebuild.
  7. I forgot to mention I did run with knock control on and this led me to investigate cyl 4 more closely. Good spark and injector clicking when tested (all are). All other cylinders equal knock levels. I tried unplugging each coil while running to see if the irregular running didn't get worse with one cylinder. With any of the cylinders unplugged, the running became much rougher with none seeming to make more or less difference over the others. While only on 5 cylinders (didn't matter which), the engine continued to have the rough running/hesitation I'm investigating overlayed on the rough running from 1 cyl off. The roughness from one cylinder off was very regular, the roughness I'm noticing is much more irregular and of higher frequency. Only thing unusual is the engine seems to run fine for the first 30-60 seconds after started weather hot or cold (maybe a little longer when cold?). As noted, all wiring seems correct and in order, no errors or problems noted. Because of all this, I'm beginning to think this is not single cylinder 'misfire' but something affecting all cylinders. When running and driving I've looked at all the runtime values and there is nothing unusual (ie no trigger errors). Have included 2 logs of the engine running and having this issue (since correcting the RH cam position sensor). Apologies for the second file, I forgot to stop recording after getting in garage so long period of dead air. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_JfHXP9O0hnnoXFyZUFvf9R2QGpMLdze/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r_zC3WCuxcOnBOpGhBUvKSObNdjOZuVf/view?usp=share_link
  8. Hi, fixed RH Cam position sensor and cam advance working well. Went through wiring to make sure no issues and didn't find any. Still have misfire(?) starting around 2000 rpm. Anyone have info on whether G4 Xtreme can analyze and identify which cylinder is causing problem? Online info says many ECUs can analyze trigger signal and figure out which cylinder is the problem but I'm not seeing if that can be done with Link ECU...
  9. Ok, on further examination I found a crack in one of my ignition plugs (at the coil). Replaced this and went for a drive. Better but still some hesitation/missing. Fairly subtle though which I found confusing. Had turned my knock sensors back on (I keep forgetting the routine to keep them on) hoping I could tell something by looking at the individual cylinder channels to see which cylinder was missing. Didn't seem to help as they all look the same. Then I noticed my RH Intake cam sensor is not working so that cam isn't being advanced. Now I'm wondering if the power imbalance between LH and RH cylinder banks is the source of the unevenness here. The cam advance makes a huge difference to engine torque at the RPMs I am noticing the problem so there would be a significant imbalance. Fingers crossed, I'll fix the sensor output and see if that fixes it. I'll report back...
  10. Hi, new problem with my engine: fixed Trigger 2 ground issue noted in previous post. This morning started and ran perfectly. Took it out for a drive and all good until around 2000 RPM when it begins to misfire. I have looked at the log and there are no Trigger errors (thank goodness!). The only thing I can see is the mixture goes lean during the misfire which is expected. I tested the ignition and injection channels using the capability in the ECU and all test ok. My problem is: I have just rebuilt the engine with new bearings and rings. It has less than 5km on it. Everything I'm reading about breaking in an engine says do not let it idle for long or run it at increased RPM without a load. I'm very reluctant to test the spark and injectors running the engine above 2000 RPM in the garage. Is there a way I've not found to see what is happening in the log? I have attached a link below to the log of the drive today. Does anyone have any ideas how I can investigate this without running the engine up in the garage with no load to find the issue? Or am I being to cautious and should just go ahead and run it? Thanks in advance. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jXmhRmyqrauGkaNZ5Yu1JZhLRzuiN0vT/view?usp=share_link
  11. Ok, thanks for the help! Cleaned, checked, and tested sensor plug. All good. I then focussed on the ground and decided to wire it and signal directly from the sensor plug to the Link wiring loom bypassing the engine wiring loom and the Subaru engine plug and socket. Once done, I powered up the system and the scope still showed a nearly +5V offset in the Trigger 2 signal. After a few minutes wondering what to do next, I decided I'd change the plug anyway and see if some kind of epiphany would come to me in the meantime. Changed it, plugged in, turned on: Trigger 2 scope tracing at zero! Put it all back together, started and ran great. So much for my plug inspection... Thanks again!
  12. Looking at the log file more closely, while there are trigger 2 errors accumulating when the engine is running, trigger 1 errors are accumulating at a much faster rate. Assessing the crank trigger, no issues found with physical setup. I am unable to find enough information in the 'Help' files understand what is happening and why. Any help appreciated.
  13. Just pulled cam pos sensor, wired correctly as per engine manual. Tested against 4 known good sensors: same resistances between pins.
  14. Original to engine. Could signal and 12v lines be reversed? Ground is correct.
  15. Inspected trigger wiring this morning, nothing out of the ordinary found physically with wiring. Tried to start: ran so-so at idle for a few seconds then died. Further cranking: no start. Attached links to 3 pics of the oscilloscope screen of triggers. Signal taken off wiring as it enters ECU. After experience trouble shooting previous issue with crank trigger, that tracing looks ok to me. The cam trigger looks off to me but I can't quite figure it out. Offset seems too big? I apologize I was not able to get the settings just right on the tracings but by the time I'd fiddled with the scope to get both signals on the screen and approaching readable, my battery was out of juice. Thought I'd post these while I recharged it hoping for advise on best settings for that channel as oscilloscopes are way out of my wheelhouse. Thanks. https://drive.google.com/file/d/16tpU_tWQYVsv2obo6avEAIZEioCG78pj/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rN3L-u8HDeGGPwjn3QoKypmcjS21k3cY/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1klTQoJSiexdCuqc12v8bt-gVY-b1GKe_/view?usp=share_link
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