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MartinS

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Everything posted by MartinS

  1. That worked beautifully. Using the virtual Aux as compressor control and then bumping the TP from 1.5 to 2.5% with AC on made the biggest difference. With that, the overrun went from dropping to a 450 rpm near stall to 700 rpm at the lowest. I'd tried a 2.5% baseline previously but then idle was too high with AC-off. I will rewire to take advantage of the compressor delay but, honestly, this setup has a barely perceptible rpm waver when the AC is turned on so it's already very good. With the idle ignition table tweak, it pretty much drops to the set 850 rpm AC-on idle on the overrun and doesn't budge. Maybe 800 for a fraction of a second. Aggressive slope for AC-on, mild slope for AC-off works perfectly. Thanks Adam!
  2. That's great! I'll try with a virtual Aux for now and re-wire when I'm able. The idle ignition table idea is excellent! Nothing like that had even crossed my mind. I'd been trying to accomplish this by making the +side very aggressive but it only seemed to work to a certain point as the crossover in the '0' column was problematic with the big jump from 0-100 not being a very stable part of the curve. Thanks Adam, I'll try these today.
  3. I saw that table but when I read the help file it says I need an auxiliary out controlling AC compressor clutch. I didn't wire that way instead splitting the 12V from the AC clutch control relay: one limb to the clutch, the other to a digital input. Because of that I thought I couldn't use this table without a re-wire and I'm currently away from home with the vehicle and don't really have the tools/facilities to do the rewire until I get it home.. However, just thinking about it, is this where I could use a virtual Aux out assigned to AC clutch or could I just assign an unused Aux to the AC clutch but not actually hook it up at this point? Would this allow me to use this function?
  4. Hi, Subaru H6, running well with good drivability overall. Only issue is stalling with AC on the overrun. When pushing in clutch to downshift (up shifting am back on the throttle before the revs drop much) the engine always slows to the point the oil light comes on, initially was stalling 2/3 times before recovering initially, with my tuning I've got it to about 1/5 times it stalls. I've tried several things: I've increased the baseline throttle position from 1.5% to 2.0% (higher and the idle is too high without AC) with a bump to 4% below 500 rpm. This has helped. I have played with idle mixture but in an AFR range from 12-15, it really makes very little difference, overall happiest in the 14.4-14.8 range. AC 'on' injector time increase is 0.5 ms. I've adjusted the ignition idle control to be much more aggressive with below target RPM: base idle timing is 10 degrees, I now have the + side of the idle control table set 10 degrees at idle, 16 degrees at 100 rpm below target, then 18, 20, 22 for each of the next 100 rpm steps below idle target. More aggressive advance seems to make little difference (up to about 25 degrees anyway). As noted, this leaves me with the oil light always flickering when pushing in clutch from any RPM over about 1800 and stalling about 1/5 times. What more can I do to stop the stalling?
  5. Fuel pressure >35psi. Spark plugs carbon on rim with whitish deposit on electrodes. No single plug is different colour. I've tried richening the mixture but then it runs rough with a richer mixture. When removed from the engine prior to bottom end rebuild, plugs had minimal pinkish deposit of good mixture. At that time the engine was running pretty much perfectly until my first rebuild spun a rod bearing...just plain old bad luck according to my machine shop. Same plugs, same coils, same injectors and wiring, same ECU and tune, same top end. Spent the weekend hardwiring the engine wiring loom to the ECU (was using the Subaru engine plug and socket original to the engine, some of the 32ish small sockets were beginning to cause fail as they don't like being unplugged and plugged in more than a few times it seems...this was the cause of the intake cam position sensor signal failure as well lost oil temp signal). I was hoping this was the source of the issue. Obviously I've reached the limit of my diagnostic abilities on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Subaru EZ36, new rebuild.
  7. I forgot to mention I did run with knock control on and this led me to investigate cyl 4 more closely. Good spark and injector clicking when tested (all are). All other cylinders equal knock levels. I tried unplugging each coil while running to see if the irregular running didn't get worse with one cylinder. With any of the cylinders unplugged, the running became much rougher with none seeming to make more or less difference over the others. While only on 5 cylinders (didn't matter which), the engine continued to have the rough running/hesitation I'm investigating overlayed on the rough running from 1 cyl off. The roughness from one cylinder off was very regular, the roughness I'm noticing is much more irregular and of higher frequency. Only thing unusual is the engine seems to run fine for the first 30-60 seconds after started weather hot or cold (maybe a little longer when cold?). As noted, all wiring seems correct and in order, no errors or problems noted. Because of all this, I'm beginning to think this is not single cylinder 'misfire' but something affecting all cylinders. When running and driving I've looked at all the runtime values and there is nothing unusual (ie no trigger errors). Have included 2 logs of the engine running and having this issue (since correcting the RH cam position sensor). Apologies for the second file, I forgot to stop recording after getting in garage so long period of dead air. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_JfHXP9O0hnnoXFyZUFvf9R2QGpMLdze/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r_zC3WCuxcOnBOpGhBUvKSObNdjOZuVf/view?usp=share_link
  8. Hi, fixed RH Cam position sensor and cam advance working well. Went through wiring to make sure no issues and didn't find any. Still have misfire(?) starting around 2000 rpm. Anyone have info on whether G4 Xtreme can analyze and identify which cylinder is causing problem? Online info says many ECUs can analyze trigger signal and figure out which cylinder is the problem but I'm not seeing if that can be done with Link ECU...
  9. Ok, on further examination I found a crack in one of my ignition plugs (at the coil). Replaced this and went for a drive. Better but still some hesitation/missing. Fairly subtle though which I found confusing. Had turned my knock sensors back on (I keep forgetting the routine to keep them on) hoping I could tell something by looking at the individual cylinder channels to see which cylinder was missing. Didn't seem to help as they all look the same. Then I noticed my RH Intake cam sensor is not working so that cam isn't being advanced. Now I'm wondering if the power imbalance between LH and RH cylinder banks is the source of the unevenness here. The cam advance makes a huge difference to engine torque at the RPMs I am noticing the problem so there would be a significant imbalance. Fingers crossed, I'll fix the sensor output and see if that fixes it. I'll report back...
  10. Hi, new problem with my engine: fixed Trigger 2 ground issue noted in previous post. This morning started and ran perfectly. Took it out for a drive and all good until around 2000 RPM when it begins to misfire. I have looked at the log and there are no Trigger errors (thank goodness!). The only thing I can see is the mixture goes lean during the misfire which is expected. I tested the ignition and injection channels using the capability in the ECU and all test ok. My problem is: I have just rebuilt the engine with new bearings and rings. It has less than 5km on it. Everything I'm reading about breaking in an engine says do not let it idle for long or run it at increased RPM without a load. I'm very reluctant to test the spark and injectors running the engine above 2000 RPM in the garage. Is there a way I've not found to see what is happening in the log? I have attached a link below to the log of the drive today. Does anyone have any ideas how I can investigate this without running the engine up in the garage with no load to find the issue? Or am I being to cautious and should just go ahead and run it? Thanks in advance. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jXmhRmyqrauGkaNZ5Yu1JZhLRzuiN0vT/view?usp=share_link
  11. Ok, thanks for the help! Cleaned, checked, and tested sensor plug. All good. I then focussed on the ground and decided to wire it and signal directly from the sensor plug to the Link wiring loom bypassing the engine wiring loom and the Subaru engine plug and socket. Once done, I powered up the system and the scope still showed a nearly +5V offset in the Trigger 2 signal. After a few minutes wondering what to do next, I decided I'd change the plug anyway and see if some kind of epiphany would come to me in the meantime. Changed it, plugged in, turned on: Trigger 2 scope tracing at zero! Put it all back together, started and ran great. So much for my plug inspection... Thanks again!
  12. Looking at the log file more closely, while there are trigger 2 errors accumulating when the engine is running, trigger 1 errors are accumulating at a much faster rate. Assessing the crank trigger, no issues found with physical setup. I am unable to find enough information in the 'Help' files understand what is happening and why. Any help appreciated.
  13. Just pulled cam pos sensor, wired correctly as per engine manual. Tested against 4 known good sensors: same resistances between pins.
  14. Original to engine. Could signal and 12v lines be reversed? Ground is correct.
  15. Inspected trigger wiring this morning, nothing out of the ordinary found physically with wiring. Tried to start: ran so-so at idle for a few seconds then died. Further cranking: no start. Attached links to 3 pics of the oscilloscope screen of triggers. Signal taken off wiring as it enters ECU. After experience trouble shooting previous issue with crank trigger, that tracing looks ok to me. The cam trigger looks off to me but I can't quite figure it out. Offset seems too big? I apologize I was not able to get the settings just right on the tracings but by the time I'd fiddled with the scope to get both signals on the screen and approaching readable, my battery was out of juice. Thought I'd post these while I recharged it hoping for advise on best settings for that channel as oscilloscopes are way out of my wheelhouse. Thanks. https://drive.google.com/file/d/16tpU_tWQYVsv2obo6avEAIZEioCG78pj/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rN3L-u8HDeGGPwjn3QoKypmcjS21k3cY/view?usp=share_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1klTQoJSiexdCuqc12v8bt-gVY-b1GKe_/view?usp=share_link
  16. Good points. Inspection and. oscilloscope first thing in the morning...
  17. Hi, just did some engine work, didn't change wiring, sensors, or tune. First start this morning, just did a fast idle warm up to bleed cooling system and look for problems. Started and ran beautifully. Let it cool, topped up coolant and oil and went for first drive. Started and idled beautifully, ran great, drove about 3 city blocks (got into second gear at about 30km/hr in residential neighbourhood with no issues) and engine suddenly started bucking and stalled. Pulled over, restarted and limped into alley to get back to garage running rough, bucking, and stalling several times. Had to get a push the last 50 meters as it wouldn't restart. I've gone through the log and I'm getting trigger errors. Looks like it's getting trigger signal from both triggers 1 and 2 fine but the errors are accumulating. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Log and PCL file links below... Thanks in advance. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xJivnJykC_JkZGq5Noos6q3W4uEY0XD_/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EM-0DJje_vF70rCYjQ6sDDIlO5qwsx5C/view?usp=share_link
  18. Might have just solved it: one person posted on a help forum about USB device issues with Bootcamp that not all of the 4 USB-C ports can be used to emulate USB-A. Not sure if his rationale is correct but on my my MacBook Pro 13", the 2 on the right side don't work, the 2 on the left do. So, actually working very nicely now. Left the com port settings on 'auto'
  19. Well, as Adam suggested, this was likely a ground issue. One ground had some corrosion when I checked them. Other possibility is a poor solder job on one of the power cables to my relay box. I can't tell for sure but it looks like maybe it was contaminated so had a poor connection or connection which failed. Either way, it's been over a week and everything is working as it should!! Also, did the Cam Angle Test as suggested and got my intake cam timing dialled in accurately. Nice feature!
  20. My Windows laptop just crapped out. Have installed Windows 10 on my MacBook using bootcamp. Successful install, successful download of PC Link software, able to open file with latest tune, PC Link appears to work correctly, cannot connect to ECU. Gives 'check com settings' or similar message. Anyone have any experience getting this to work? Not really finding anything that helps online....
  21. Today, I finished replacing my engine wiring loom, cleaned all my grounds coating them on the surface with dielectric grease and reorganized to make sure all engine related grounds were connected to the engine block ('star' pattern), and rewired my main relay box. I have rewired the relays with better quality connectors on the power lines and have simplified the current paths somewhat. Didn't find any specific issues but a couple of 'maybes' (some corrosion one ground point, maybe a bad solder joint in one of the power lines). Turned on and am able to connect to ECU, relays work appropriately. It remains to be seen whether the issue is solved. It's had episodes everything seems ok. Engine starts and runs but e-throttle has decided not to work and no oil temp signal. Both likely easy fixes. I'll post on what happens the next few days.
  22. I don't know if you are able to give some guidance, but I really need it. Today, I went out to begin troubleshooting. Yesterday I had removed all the wiring loom tape and coverings to begin inspection of the loom (not the engine loom, the loom from ECU to power relays and connections to engine). This morning, I went out to check my Trigger 2 wiring (I did use LH Intake and have the correct offsets in place...self doubt is crushing me right now), checked all the power supplies again, and checked power to the ECU. Could connect to ECU, engine started, ran great. Inspected part of the loom, re-wrapped it, turned ignition on and got the cycling relays I haven't seen since the original problem a few days ago. Took the wrapping off, separated all the wires as best I could, still 2 Hz cycling relays. At a loss, I thought I'd start unplugging engine components. Unplugged the RH intake cam solenoid, and the clicking became a 2 Hz buzzing. Unplugged the LH cam solenoid, buzzing became softer. I began to wonder if my issue is in the engine wiring loom. I have a good backup engine loom which was working fine recently and is untouched by me (the one in place was rebuilt by me which seems like a really bad idea these days). I've spent the day installing it. Have only plugged in inlet cam sensors, knock sensors, and injectors. 12V to ECU through the two power wires to the ECU which are powered through a relay with power from the starter and alternator, have continuity and the relay is working, engine loom plugged in, ECU grounded through engine loom at point on block with M6 bolt, 2 cm from this is another M6 bolt with a 6 guage wire running directly to the battery -ve. Both very clean (have just rebuilt the engine and the block was cleaned at the machine shop). Unable to connect to ECU. Shouldn't I be able to? It's not connected to much so there should be some error messages but I can't connect. Is there another way to tell if it's on? If I take it out and bench test with 12V to the 2 pins and ground, how will I know it's on? My biggest problem is I'm unsure how to approach this now. It's completely unreliable with a recurring problem I'm unable to reproduce predictably or resolve when it does occur. Do these projects become untenable?
  23. Thanks Adam 360 degrees different or 180 degrees different...or are we looking at 720 degrees of rotation?
  24. Went out today and started going through wiring to check my wiring loom. I didn't find any problems but noticed my Wideband controller wasn't powering up. I've kind of separated all my wiring, checked power supplies and grounds to everything, didn't find any problems. This meant cutting and testing wiring to Wideband as is hardwired, then re-connecting the wires. Power and ground appropriate for everything engine related that I tested. Then, when I powered up to see if the Wideband worked, it did. Also, the fuel pump primed and the e-throttle started. Tried to connect to ecu and I could! Cranked, no error messages, no trigger errors. Everything seemed to work. Didn't start but I don't really have everything back together. I think you have the issue identified, my problem is going to be finding the source. Not the ECU. I think there must be some kind of ground fault occurring in the wiring loom; maybe a damaged 12v line leaking to a ground or something along those lines. With the tape removed, the loom wires are hanging free with most not touching. I think I'm going to have to get out my mag lens and start looking for damage. Something I pinched or nicked during recent troubleshooting? Ideas welcome. A side question: as I've been going through everything, I can't find my initial instillation instructions and am having doubts about which intake cam should be Trigger 2. Is it 1-3-5 or 2-4-6 for the EZ36 and what should the intake cam offsets be set at? Thanks Adam
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