Brendanr33

So after much frustration I couldn’t get it to work as it should everything seemed ok with the way you suggested adam however I lost all power hold function after this the ecu would just shut down instantly with the key off and would keep all random aux’s, ecu hold power, fuel pump aux, and DI inputs active in pc link when they were all powered off witch is a pain as would cause extended cranking and iacv to not work as I want it to with resetting on key off. so with the frustration along come the cutting the haltech fusebox from the circuitry temporarily whilst I looked at the way they had it wired and I don’t think it would ever of worked like that so I ripped the whole fuse/relay box apart and started from scratch following the link manual I’ll explain this in a second but if you see anything wrong with anything please let me know as I’ll change it before I put it back in the car.. so there are 4x fuse/relays in the box that were being used, ECU, INJ, IGN, FUEL PUMP ( note I have now removed fuel pump relay and left blank for another purpose later on due to external setup ) so I now have it wired as followed below starting from battery side of things 1. 4x wires from battery positive to each fuse in the box. 2. 12v from fuses to pin 30 on all relays. 3. Ecu hold power wire from ecu aux 2 to pin 86 on all relays being used. 4. IGN relay pin 87 load out to coilpack harness power feed. 5. INJ relay pin 87 load out to injector harness ( also feeds the vvt solenoids 12v supply tapped into injector harness ) 6.ECU relay pin 87 load out to ecu’s 14v ins with diode in place between 14v ins and ignition switch to DI6 on the ecu.. in the fusebox I have also spliced into pin 87 on the ecu relay then they tap into pin 85 on all the relays being used. will this now all work when I put it back in adam? Or do I need to change things cheers mate

I have connected up how you said to Adam, so what I got from that is there is no back feeding or relays/vvt clicking now. on pc link however once it shuts down the ecu disconnects from pc link but after it does so the aux 2 for hold power, aux 4 fuel pumps and the injector power trigger on injection channel on a gp output thats on with aux 4 are all staying on? any suggestions here mate cheers

No worries adam will give it a red hot crack again tomorrow, would having this setup as haltech do also cause the hold power wire being the black/red wire from all negative side of relays showing a voltage of around 6v after everything is switched off? And would this voltage cause the ecu to stay alive even though all I/O are saying off in pc link? after correcting old mates wiring and putting it back to how it’s sapposed to be as per links wiring diagrams I found that once everything was switched off on the key side of things that the injection relay in the haltech fusebox started clicking aswell as the vvt solenoid so after checking this out old mate has the wiring feeding 12v from the injection harness/relay to also power the vvt solenoids 12v feed. Would the vvt being powered from the injector power wire cause back feeding issues back to the fusebox/ecu? i opened the haltech fuse box up and started testing them with a multi meter and on ignition all switched off i got readings of Fuel pump relay 11-12v on the Negative switch, 12v on pos side, supply and load sides of around 12v however this relay is is not in use as I have an external setup for the pumps driven off a aux output it is still connected to the haltech harness so is live still. injection, ignition and ecu relays I got all the same readings as followed. 6v on negative switch 12v ish on pos side supply and load around 12v ish also. cheers adam I’ll give that a crack in the morning with changing the red/white pos wires in the fusebox and change them to be a ignition switch feed instead and see what it does.

So thought I sorted it but turns out I didn’t well not fully but good news is everything is shutting down as it should be but I’m now getting a clicking noise from the injector relay once it’s all shut down? checked wiring again, 12v ignition wire fused 10amp to di#6 B connector diode inbetween DI#6 and 14v in on A plug. aux 4 ( hold power wire ) to all neg side on switches in relay circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) 14v aux 9/10 to all pos side switches in the relays circuitry. ( haltech fuse box ) battery positives in through fuses and to pin 30 on relays ( haltech fuse box ) pos out to each item, injectors, coilpacks, and ecu for hold power. ( haltech fusebox ) any reason as to why this would be happening? Any suggestions adam cause I’m just about over this peanuts work if I can’t sort it in the next couple of days I’ll be ripping it out and starting again myself at least might make sense of it all then only had to redo all of his shit just about anyways.. could you please check out the haltech 2500 premium wiring loom and cross reference to above I/O’s adam as this is how it’s all been wired up and let me know what I can change alter and see if I can get this mess sorted out. appreciate it adam cheers Also note that the only relay that I can feel clicking is the injector relay all others seem to be ok.

Hey Adam, so I’ve done some more testing and some wiring changes to ignition circuit and have found the following, no matter what way I connect the 12v switch wire tried multiple different wires the di input still stays active once key is turned to off, it will only turn off once I turn the key to on again and flick back to off straight away once the car is shut down, any other suggestions that you would recommend looking at? I do also believe old mate who wired this all up has installed a relay into the wiring near the ecu unsure of what it’s actually there for but I do remember him saying that it was so he could get the ecu hold power to work? Would this relay be causing any dramas on this side of things?? Cheers adam

Thanks Adam I will look into this first as will be the most simple rather then pulling out all the ecu and loom to track things down, I’m sort of figuring it will be in the turbo timer side as all turns off as it should just doesn’t kill the power until it’s switched back on again cheers mate will check in once I get the chance to look into it a bit more this afternoon

Will have a look at this in the morning Adam but from testing today when key off the ecu hold power aux and di6 input are staying active and not switching off at all, those 2 will only turn off once key is turned back to the on position and off again, I’m guessing it has something to do with the turbo timer now also as after switching everything off is still staying active until key is reset, I’ll check back in the morning when I check into things further and let you know, is there any reason as to why the power would be staying active on ecu hold and di because of the turbo timer? As can turn it all on Inc motor and turn off countdown happens switches off but ecu hold and di stay active until key is placed back to on and off again then turbo timer counts down and switches off and everything turns off as usual but takes the key on to do this once motor shuts down? Cheers adam

Hey guys, still ironing out these issues I’ve been left with from the guy who wired this up for me and what a nightmare!! so I’ve managed to get all other things ruled out and fixed so far with all of your help, Thank use. so with everything else now fixed I decided to leave the battery in and connected for a couple of days to see if anything would drain power when it shouldn’t be and what do you know something is going on come back and went to turn car over and battery voltage is below 9v not enough to kick the car over. Bummer for me as I am now stuck with another issue to find and sort out.. so the new issue I believe is ecu hold power side of things.. I jump started the car to get a bit of voltage back into the battery with ecu connected to pc link let it run for a bit no dramas at all but upon turning ignition to the off position turbo timer kicked in left motor running for 30seconds and then shuts the motor off.. so I got the multi meter and held probes to battery terminals and was watching the voltage dropping before my eyes so went back to laptop and saw that the ecu is still connected to the laptop and ecu hold power is active aswell as the digital input that’s controlling it, so decided to start testing some things and here’s what I’ve found so far, any input here would be greatly appreciated guys.. 1. ecu hold power works absolutely as it should with key in the on position and shuts down ecu when it should ( 10 second hold power timer ) when turned back off again.. 2. if you start the motor up and let it run for any amount of time and then switch the key back to the off position the ecu will stay powered on indefinitely.. 3. Start and run the motor for any amount of time and turn it back off again the ecu stays powered up until I turn the key back to the on position and back off again and then it will shut everything down as it should? any suggestions on what could be causing this issue? Diode and everything is in place where is should be as per wiring info in pc link help file ect ect so I’m sort of stumped as to why it all works as it should until the motor gets started and then everything stays powered up until you turn the key to on position and back off again.. Fingers crossed last issue to fix guys but yes any help of input as to what’s going on will be of great help thanks guys.. thanks in advance

Cheers adam, ive gone through and had a look both are negative switched thermo setups both fans are grounded out via aux 3 but they are only just spinning for this setup, I have wired straight to thermos and they turn very fast on straight power but not through the relay setup? do the fans both need a seperate aux out to ground each relay or can it be jumped off one aux out? just trying to figure out why they turn on but not crank to full speed as they do when the power is connected straight to the fans themselves.. cheers guys hope use all had a good Christmas

Hey fellas, one last question for use regarding engine fan switches from ecu, witch is best to use ect? the engine fans are currently controlled by a negative switched relay via aux output, however when I ran the car yesterday and got it up to temp the thermos switched on as they should by the ecu but don’t seem like they are really spinning as fast as they should and the relays controlling them are making the ol buzzing/squealy noise like they are low on juice.. so did a bit of reading and getting mixed ways at doing it aswell as reasons some say run off aux channels and others say injection or ignition as it won’t backfeed some say negative switched and others say 12v switched setups.. question is witch method would use recommend on using? As I will swap it over while ecu is out to save the hassle of pulling all the dash apart again.. 1. aux channel to negative switched relay setup. 2. Aux channel to 12v switched relay setup. 3. Injector channel to negative switched relay setup. 4. injector channel to 12v switched relay setup. fans are twin 10” Aeroflow 1500cfm race fans, 30amp normally open relays 1x relay driving each fan.. Other then that first start went bloody awesome thanks again that base map was mint adam!! 1 leak out of the whole motor and probably the most simplest to fix so can’t complain with that.. cheers fellas

You guys adam/koracing are absolute legends!!! swapped the trigger from 8v to sensor ground where it’s sapposed to be and loaded in adams original map he sent first kick and signs of life adjusted the master fuel a little bit and finally came to life after a year of being built!! cheers legends wouldn’t of been able to do it without use... appreciate the help and thanks for putting up with the million questions/thoughts

Thanks for rectifying that koracing, I will go through and change it all to how it’s sapposed to be today and load up adams map he originally sent me and see what happens hopefully can get it to fire and this is the only issue otherwise I’ll rip it all out buy a new set of looms and re-wire myself.. and yeah will not be returning to him as have been fixing problems since.. deffinately a bit frustrating after paying for it all to be done.. and no worries mate will keep that in mind cheers mate, will touch back to base when wiring is sorted and let use know if it sorts it and can get a fire up out of it.. adam when loading the map back in do you reckon to use the map that you first sent me or the map with lowered trigger arming thresholds? Cheers again guys appreciate the help

So adam have finally heard back from the guy who wired it up for me to confirm wiring, now it’s completely wrong I believe, They are both wired up as 8v from ecu to sensors +ve and sheilded ground from -ve back to ecu trigger 1/2, reason I havnt picked up on it as wires were spliced near firewall connector so looking at ecu connectors all looks legit but is far from it so if I’m thinking straight correct me if Im wrong but this should be a easy fix as the only thing wired into the 8v port on ecu plug are the cam and crank sensors old mate reckons so should be able to grab the 8v wire out of ecu plug and splice it into a sensor ground and should be all ok? cheers adam

Ok mate to easy ill check ohms on the those 2 first up and let you know what it’s reading before pulling anything apart. I’ll leave the ecu out for now and if resistance check comes back crappy I’ll go through and correct all of this and get it so it’s as above where trigger grounds and shields are all on a7 and then signal from sensors to trigger 1/2 cheers adam will check in soon

I can do this mate pin A7 and A8 are the trigger 1/2 connections on fury wire in ecu’s or sensor grounds? Is currently wired as followed.. 1. sensor ground to -ve sensor 2. sheilded cable from cam and crank sensors +ve ( signal ) to trigger 1/2 on ecu 3. the shield of the shielded cable looks to be grounded straight to chassis or back into the sensor grounds on the ecu Inside the car on the footwell not sure if this is correct but that’s what it looks like he has done when he wired it.. or would it be better for me to wire again as followed.. 1. sensor ground to -ve sensors 2. shielded cable from cam and crank sensors +ve ( signal ) to trigger 1/2 on ecu 3. shield from shielded cables spliced together and pinned to shielded/ground on ecu? cheers adam will let you know test results when I get them done

No mate didn’t have any rpm show up at all

so ive uploaded that map adam, tests recorded in a log file and trigger scope is attached i believe im out of upload amount is there somewhere else i can upload or send the log file to for you to recieve it? upon cranking motor there is still no rpm being recorded into the ecu.. not sure either as when i did the trigger scope you said you had turned off the cam sensor but am still getting its signal in the trigger scope?? was it sapposed to give its signal in the scope if it was turned off? cheers adam Trigger Scope Log adam test 2.llg

Cheers adam I will load this up when I finish up at work and let you know how I go, I appreciate it mate, spent a few hours on the computer the other night with my tuner and couldn’t manage to figure it out he reckons by this stage they normally are good to go. Bit weird but will get it sorted eventually.. so if I see no rpm in this map would you suggest replacing cam and crank sensors? I tested the ohms last night on the sensors and they are showing at about 1100-1580ish but both cam and crank I couldn’t get a steady reading on the multimeter though so could be wrong here, started at those ohms and dropped off the multi within a few seconds of holding probes on the sensor pins cheers adam

gday adam any chance you have had time to look at that map file yet? Cheers mate

cheers adam, attached in current map file on ecu will a log file help out any? cheers mate also checked wiring over and can confirm its sheilded ground to trigger inputs on ecu, and sensor ground from ecu back to sensors cheers adam current map in ecu.pclr

Adam just a thought I’ve noticed on another forum post that you also commented on a while back regarding the same issue that I’m having but do you think by any chance going off the trigger scope pics do you think the polarity could be around the wrong way on the cam sensor?? As in the other forum post the trigger scope looks exactly the same as mine at the moment but once he changed the polarity on the cam sensor it sorted his dramas out.. cheers man

thanks koracing, will have a look tonight to double check it and make sure it’s wired correctly as pretty sure if I can remember correctly it’s 8v from ecu into the crank and cam then a shielded ground wire coming from the cam and crank sensors to the trigger 1/2 on the ecu.. pretty sure when I was looking at wiring diagrams it said to do it this way but don’t quote me had nothing but dramas fixing wiring to try and get it to start!! Adam have you got any input into this and how the reluctors are sapposed to be wired up on the fury’s to 1jz?? cheers guys

Thanks koracing, will add that into the map for the conditions when I get home from work today.. cheers mate appreciate it a lot hopefully with yours and Adams input I can have it running very shortly to check for leaks ect for when it goes for a tune next year

No worries mate, thanks for the info and input to this appreciate it a lot I’ll give that a try tomorrow and see how it goes and will let you know what rpm I see.. will the hold power side of things play part in this as I’m seeing it constantly on until ecu is shut down. Seen a few other forums I’ve browsed today and saw a few saying that if the ecu hold power was on wouldn’t let them fire? but anyways slowly getting through it old saying is poor man pays twice that’s me this time round lol will get there eventually once again appreciate all the input your giving in relation to this has been a huge help.. cheers adam

so after tracing wires and looking at what’s going on I repinned some wires quickly for testing and come up with Mate who wired it had the fuel pump trigger wired to injection 8 set as fuel pump in the drop down, injection 7 was set to injector power trigger to activate the relay in fuse box. aux 4 was a spare with it set to fuel pump in the drop down. so after mucking around with it I changed injection 8 ( originally fuel pump trigger ) to aux 4 and switched injection 8 off all 3 fuel pumps work as they should now and all prime up with key on.. phew.. my question is now if I set injection 7 ( injector power trigger ) to fuel pump im back to where I was with no fuel pump prime, so how would I go about setting this in the drop down to activate the coil for the injector power side of things I currently have it set to gp output and pumps turn on with it set to that so what conditions do I need to run if any to make it work or would I set this to something else in the drop down? cheers lads