mike2016

Just checked the connector at the VVT solenoid. NO 12V at key on and car is cold. Can’t start the car now it’s late at night and the kids room is directly above lol. I forgot how its wired as it was wired by the shop who did the Vcam install. I remember seeing it going into one of the wires in the main ecu loom. But I’ll have to take it apart to verify. Is there ANY power source that’s coolant dependent??

It's wired to AUX 2 , FP Speed 1. i'll double check if there's 12V when cold. does the FP Speed 1 have anything to do with that thermostatic idle valve that opens/closes depending on coolant temp? forgot. i'll have to dig up the schematics

I know this is might not be G4X related.... but i can't seem to figure out why it's doing this. I noticed this behavior after several starts and decided to do a full log. I can repeat this every time when car is completely cold. my VVT table is set to 10 degree at idle, at 0 TP. I did a full log from cold start(completely cold), the VVT solenoid is at 100% but the VVT is not moving at all. However, once ECT reach 77C , it all of a sudden engage and reach target. My ECT lock out for VVT is set to 20C, RPM lock out is 800 RPM. I can't seem to find any other setting that prevents the VVT from engaging. what else can prevent the VVT not engage while VVT solenoid is working 100%? once it's warm, i can restart the car and it's normal. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hiaj6bt5tinesyy778thr/2023-09-11.pclx?rlkey=sqvd5owmgwzy3jex3v89c5kft&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zel2ulxif0eba2a13ttdq/PC-Datalog-2023-09-11-11-29-01-am-VVT-not-active-until-77C-ECT.llgx?rlkey=f4nmayrnn4htnq3w74pwou6gc&dl=0

Most, if not all, automotive LEDs are PWM dimmed. There are plenty of cheap LED dimmer switches on Amazon for less than $20 or even less. It'd be nice to have everything integrated into the PDM switch panel, so that i don't need to wire another odd looking dimmer switch for the lights. I'm going to buy the PDM Link for my project, i think it's the best option out there now.

Besides my tuning car hobby, I'm building a RV/Motorhome based on a Sprinter on my spare time. I've been looking for a suitable remote mount switch panel for lighting control, water pump on/off, outside awning light, roof lights...etc. There's a few on the market such as "SwitchPro" but it's not programmable, and many don't have capability to add additional keypad. and those systems are mostly "fixed", the same button can only do the same task. and there's no input / trigger capability. I think the PDM is a perfect product for this. since it's CAN based, I can have a keypad in the cockpit, one in the galley, another in the sleeping area. and I can have the keypads control different loads depending on the location. for the cockpit keypad, i just need to control roof lights and outside lights..etc. My questions Can the PDM somehow be programmed to "DIM" LED lights? I understand it can be used standalone. Can I use the keypads without an ECU? I wish there are more button available for purchase... maybe add a custom button option ? Perhaps making PDM beyond a "motorsport" only product ? SwitchPros stole the show at SEMA this year for ... well .. "switches".

HKS

it's as good as it gets. can't improve it any further due to hydraulics hardware limits.

HKS just released their crank angle sensor conversion kit, a 36-2 disc sits behind the crank pulley. there are 2 part numbers. 45999-AN001 - includes crank angle sensor and camshaft position sensor 45999-AN002 - for v-cam. includes only crank angle sensor, and a blank plate for exh cam. recommended to use V-cam sensor for camshaft position. the v-cam camshaft has just 3 teeth, is this enough to use as cam sensor for Link ?

No voltage when ECU is unplugged. Eccs relay unplugged, ECU plugged in, 5v on pin 59. but i guess i found the problem. The Mac boost control solenoid is back feeding. as soon as I unplug it, no more 5v on the 12v line. there's constant 12v on the boost solenoid. I used the factory harness. moving the 12v constant to a switched source is the only solution i guess.

I'll verify and report back. I think the "leak" had always been there, at least it started at some point, it's just I would've not known until I moved the wire. The car always had a vampire drain. The previous shop had the 12V line wired to PIN 45. All I did was to move it to PIN 59. Only after I moved it to PIN 59, there's some juice to make the digital dash flicker. The vampire drain started at some point after the car came back from the shop, all I did was changing the HKS boost controller for a Mac solenoid, it's wired to the factory boost solenoid harness. and upgraded from G4+ to G4X. i'll also unplug the sensors, solenoids...etc one by one to rule them out.

I have the can bus 12V+ wired to the ECU power supply (PIN 59 on R32 GTR), 5V sensors go to 5V+ on the expansion port. Ground to sensor ground. the 12V line only feeds can bus (digital dash, can lambda) and the ethanol sensor. 5V for Bosch press/temp sensor and a speed sensor. all share the common ground. today I noticed my dash was flickering when power is off. since my dash is powered from the can bus, I tested the pins at the can bus connectors. when car is shut off, there's 4.94V at the 12V can bus line. what could be the possible issue ?

Found the hi/lo wire swapped at one end of the CAN harness that i made... It's working properly now. the Haltech CAN hub is just 4x CAN female connectors connected in series, same pin arrangements. no termination or capacitor needed on the Link can lambda. powered the can bus from ECU power wire. Powertune dash also powered from the same source. there's an almost 20 second lock out from cold start. how do you set this to run when power on so i can fine tune cold start?

i thought the all the 4 pin CAN plugs have the same pin out.... at least the powertune dash is working and is powered by the CAN. i'll verify the pin outs with a multimeter. hopefully just the can hi/lo swapped.

I just swapped out the ancient analog wideband for a Link can lambda. I’m using Haltech CAN hub with Link can lambda and a PowerTune dash on the same CAN 2 bus The dash is working fine. i followed the instructions in can setup but it’s not finding the can lambda The dash is terminated. I’m not sure how the Haltech internal is wired. But I tried having the dash and ecu connection on both end, can lambda in the middle. It didn’t help. I haven’t tried connecting directly to the ecu yet. Tune file https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoVH0biO2kWCjIVDBkYMcXDh81Fxow

Got it. I'll power the CAN bus from a ECU power supply. But even with newer ones capable of 3A, the lambda sensor heater calls for 8A ?