JeremiahJ

To figure out if you need more air or fuel when cold starting: crack throttle slightly (Maybe 2-10%) while cranking cold and see if it improves, or makes it worse, or no change.  Setting up a full throttle flood clear can be useful here to clear the cylinders if you think it's over-fueling.  If none of that makes any difference, try spraying a spritz or two of starter fluid or carb cleaner into the throttle body and see if it wants to light off (artificially adding more fuel vapor).  Something here should lead you in the proper direction of if the motor is wanting more fuel or more air.

An Volt 1-4 will be used for things like oil pressure and TPS, usually these sensors require an An Volt, a +5V reference and a signal ground wire.
An Temp 1-2 will be used for temperature inputs like coolant and intake air temp as they are like an AN Volt input but have built in pullup resistors, two wire temperature sensors are wired with one wire connected to an An Temp input and the other wire connected to a signal ground wire from the ECU.
Auxiliary Output 1-6 will be used for things like your VVT Solenoid, Idle air valve, fuel pump and so on, things that the ECU is controlling. usually one wire of the solenoid is connected to a ignition switched power Supply and the other to an Auxiliary output. If your idle air valve is anything like the gen2 3s one then it needs two Auxiliary outputs and an ignition switched power supply to control, typically you would use Aux 1 and 2 for this.
DI 1-4 are usually used for switch inputs like brake switch or clutch switch or frequency inputs like Gearbox/wheel speed. On the Atom and Monsoon DI 4 can be used as a switched input or as a Knock input. This is done to give the user some extra configurability while keeping the same 34 pin plug.
For your O2 sensor have you acquired a wideband sensor and controller or are you planning on using the factory Narrowband sensor?
@Adamw might have a generic 4 cyl engine wiring diagram which should show how these things are connected in more detail
 

You will need a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug to connect to the CAN bus.  The CANF plug needs wires soldered into it.  

Yes all you would need is CANH and CANL to connect to the AEMnet can + and - output from the X series wideband.

You will need to use the CAN option.  On the realdash website are the supported devices, there are two bluetooth/CAN options and two low cost USB/CAN options.  If you go back a page you will find a pre-configured .xml file from me for the built-in Dash2pro stream so you dont need to do and configuration on your own.  http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

So in G4X instead of going to the pin and telling it what function you want it to do you instead go to the function you want to set up and tell it what pin you want to use. For example if you want to setup the AC Request input you need to go to Chassis and Body -> AC Clutch Control, change Mode to whichever style of AC you want to use and then set the AC Request source to the input you want to be your AC request.
It is a bit different to G4+ but when you get used to it it is a lot faster and easier to use. As an extra bit of useful information double clicking on that locked Function setting when that input or output is being used by a function will take you straight to where it is being used.

When your engine is running, you would want to have the smallest ground loop to the power source -- which is the alternator (unless your engine runs without one), which is why it is recommended to have the grounds connected on the engine block/cylinder head.

Smaller ground loop means minimal chances that other accessory loads would be having to share the same ground (having more resistance) to the power source. More grounds, less resistance. Then there is less chance the ECU would be picking electromagnetic interference from ignition system.

If you have the ECU grounds connected to battery negative, it would still have to share the ground wire from the battery negative to engine block with other accessories.

Thanks, I woke to several similar reports this morning, it seems to be all related to the same user so they have been flagged as a spammer and all posts/messages should now have been removed.  

Hi, a New Member just sent me a message, but it's SPAM, SCAM or Porn with a link to open.
Can you please review this New Member ( alinkaa )
Thank You,
Tim Hampton

For tables use the recommendation from TechDave. 
 
Watch out for differences in settings between + and X. There are few settings that cannot be copied over directly due to changes. 
Once you start copying them it doesn’t take much time. Good luck with copy paste! 
 
 

Use the table import/export functions, this brings axis settings over too.

Works on almost all tables but not AFR/Lambda target

 

New update is available here:  https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/
Release notes:  https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/Link Engine Management PC Link G4X Updates 21042021.pdf
Important notes:
This firmware changes the sync point in some triggermodes so base timing must be checked after doing this update.  
There is a new "Slow Comms" setting added, this may help those with communication problems that are due to some laptops with USB ports that are slow to respond.  This a an ECU setting so the ecu needs the latest firmware instaled before you will have this setting available, you will find it in the main configuration menu (where you set number of cylinders and engine type etc). 
Any new issues related to this update can be reported here.  

got mine working via can adapter today. i assume this will work for g4x as well. If anyone wants to set this up order one of these and i'll post a step by step to walk you through it 
https://www.seeedstudio.com/USB-CAN-Analyzer-p-2888.html

In G4 most of the operators are shown on the pop up where you enter the value.  So to add 15% you just type "+15%".  To select more than one cell you shift>arrow.  

 
In G4+ selection of multiple cells is a bit easier, you can shift>arrow or click and drag or for the whole table click the top left corner.  All the same operators work.  
 

The K24A3 as far as I know has the 3 lobe Ntec cams with VVT as well - like a K20A.
A Monsoon should do this fine if you only need the basics (assuming it has cable throttle).  The Monsoon has 6 aux outputs, so for an NA engine you would use do something like this:
VVT solenoid Vtech solenoid Idle valve Fuel pump Fan Tacho. So none spare for say boost control, but there are a couple of ways you could free up a couple.  You could wire the coils wasted spark which would give you two ignition drives spare that you can use for auxes - or you can just have the fuel pump run all the time or use a temp switch for the fan.

Here you go:  https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D

Just wanted to share my setup. Have been using it since it was orginally released for ios and android.
Link to video
 

The goal of using a timing light is to confirm what the software think is for example is 10°, is actually 10 physical degrees on your engine. You can put whatever value you want as base timing, the end goal is that it matches your engine spark timing. 
No skips possible without timing light

Connect any aux output to the tacho.  For the speed sensor, assuming it is a 2 pin sensor, connect one pin to sensor ground, other pin to DI1-8.

Hi.
I dont have the scaling for temp but that should be pretty easy.
Seems like both fuel and oil pressure sensors are the same.
Here is the scaling that I made. 
Assumption here is that the sensor is linear. 
(forgot to mention that from what I've read, ecu and defi control unit need to be connected to the same groud point)

The resolution of the channels are hardcoded, you cannot change it.  Why do you need a resolution of 0.1kpa when even a good qualtiy pressure sensor such as a honeywell PX2 has a total error band of +/-2% full scale.  So if your 1000kpa oil pressure sensor only has an accuracy of +/-20kpa it seems pointless to display with a resolution of 0.1kpa?

I have already managed to solve this, I attach a formula (image) to calculate the necessary resistor, in my case I have used 1W 80ohm
Although the ohm value is measured, it is necessary to see the real voltage to make the calculation, I have adjusted it as GP Temp (Ext Pullup) in anvolt6
I have used cal table 7
Volts
%
And then 3 divisions of
100%- 0,6v
50%- 3.3v
0%- 3.9v
are made at the rate of the sender unit voltage at each site
Hope this helps someone
 

Thanks I have found a reading fault with a ground, since the oem installation of the car uses an analog ground that is not reading correctly link for the fuel tank I will be fixing it and I will test, I will share the fuel level adjustment table if it works. Thanks

If it is always reading 5V then there is a wiring problem and it isnt going to work until you fix that..  You should see a variable voltage when it is working correctly.  
You can use cal table 7/8/9/10.  The voltage is not usually linear with fuel level due to the shape of the fuel tank, so it is best to calibrate it by starting with an empty tank and adding known volume increments - say 20L at a time and note down voltage for each volume.  Then use those numbers to make your cal table.  

From memory the block error 2 is something to do with the trigger circuit.  The arming threshold shouldn’t change by itself.  So I would suggest you contact [email protected] to get a service form and return the ecu for inspection.  It will likely be a repair or replacement under warranty.