Wildt267

If i have relocated the ait from the pre turbo maf sensor to the intake manifold you would expect the charge temp correction table would be significantly less than the basemap values yes?

Thank you very much, that's very helpful!

Link 104x running modeled fuel. I noticed i have iat mode set to on. The help file indicates that all applications should be ruining iat correction. But isn't that already baked into the modeled fuel equation? Am i basically doubling up on fuel correction?

Correct but not a second fuel pump, my primary fuel pump has a two stage controller. The car is jerky at lower rpm so i have it set to kick up after i get into a bit of boost pressure. That's a good catch though. I had a feeling my aftermarket fpr was having a hard time dealing with the pump but ive prioritized sorting out my boost control so i just haven't gotten to it yet.

My apologies, i found the information in the help file.

Does anybody know the Fuel density, Fuel density Temp coefficient and the fuel charge cooling coefficient for 10% ethanol gasoline?

Thank you for the knock setting advice, i am eager to implement it. I am extremely confused by the screen shot however. At the spot you highlighted my software shows a lambda target of 11.23 and an actual afr of 11.8. Am i going crazy here? The file i'm viewing matches the 974 k file size displayed in the thread so it's got to be the same file. I will follow the advice of the previous poster and switch the stoich ratio back to 14.7.

I did in fact set the stoich ratio to 14.13 as i am using 10% ethanol in my fuel. I am using an Aem x-series wideband which i believe is as you describe but i thought that was a display issue only. So is the wideband then feeding incorrect information into the ecu? Should i set stoich ratio back to 14.7? I am including the requested log. You will see the issue above 15psi of boost pressure. I took your advice and applied the v11 knock settings to my map and selected 7khz narrow band. Since you will be poking around the datalog anyway is the knock data what you would expect? I Ive never had this advanced of knock control so everything looks noisy to me. As always i greatly appreciate your help. 1135 target afr.llgx

link 104x. As stated around 20+ psi i'm hitting mid 11's for afr when map is set to 10.9 in the afr target table. Logs indicate targeted afr is 11.35 Checked iat table and its zero'd in most of that area. I dug through looking for a specific correction responsible but was unable to determine what was happening. I apologize for using afr and not lambda. I just can't get my head around it. So what am i missing here?v86 sti v11 knock settings and cold start settings.pclx v86 sti v11 knock settings and cold start settings.pclx

As always thank you for your detailed answers. I greatly appreciate them.

First question involves the stoichiometric ratio. I noticed in your basemap it's set to 14.70. Do they not have 10% ethanol in your gas in New Zealand or do things work better setting it to that as opposed to 14.1? My second question is about the injection timing. I see in the basemap its 470 btdc. I did a calculation and ended up at 360. I do have upgraded cams and I do understand that injection timing isn't crucial past the bottom of the midrange but my concern is how far off my number was. I've tried setting the injector timing at idle but i never have the afr constant enough to get a good read of if i'm making it better or worse. I am using asynchronous injection so if i probably shouldn't be let me know. 3rd question is i calculated my knock frequency at 5.7 kHz and noticed yours is a wide 6-10khz or something. I was hoping for insight and wisdom on how you picked that. I read your thread about scoping a few different engines and got really interested in this. Btw when i went to double check the factory basemap on your knock settings knock control was disabled. Was that intentional? One last question is was your basemap done on a 2.0 liter or did your Stis come with ej257s like the USDMs did? I'm only asking these nitpicking questions because i'm getting inconsistent fueling and i'm trying to tie up loose ends one variable at a time. I do love all the freedom your ecu gives. It just means there are a lot of tables and variables to dial in. I'm sure i don't need to tell you lol. As always thank you for your patience and all of your help.

The software indicates there are two can modules. I've read quite a few unrelated posts where Adam indicates there is only one can network. Is that correct? I've been trying to setup real dash on a tablet using the 2nd can module thinking I can run it faster that the 500 kbps my can bus wideband runs at on the first module.

oh i see. I didn't try to enable the pull up. I accidentally set up di10 because i read the wrong pinout from the newer model years and it didn't work. Maybe the pull up is the trick. I'll give it a shot. Thank you

Link 104x in a Usdm 06 Sti. Im repurposing the 3 inputs on my cruise control stock for different things. Factory set up has a button in the middle that turns cc on, stock up for accelerate, stock down for cancel. I can't seem to figure out what input is tied to the main on button. In the manual is see di 6 is cancel or resume and di 7 is cruise set or cancel. Is there not a discrete input for the main on button like the oem setup?

Thank you gentleman. This is all very helpful.

I’m in the middle of implementing the suggestions. I’ve got the anti theft digital input set to my virtual aux1. Virtual aux 1’s function Is set to off/on. I have a gp output set to the virt aux. I have 2 parameters set but I don’t see how to get the successful trigger of the conditions to output to the check engine light, what am I missing? Until you said something I didn’t know you could use it for anything other than the Link displaying trouble codes. I also previously tried to get it to act as a knock light. I would be very happy if it could use it to indicate a trouble code, and flash intermittently when encountering a certain knock threshold and to confirm when the anti theft conditions are met. Is that possible?

Those are fantastic ideas, thank you very much. I'll definitely implement them.

I was actually considering using the nfc approach as well. Your suggestion for using a virtual output was very helpful. I haven’t utilized those yet but I’ll figure it out. Thank you for the help

It is a 2006 Usdm Subaru Sti using the 104x plug in.

I live in a high theft area. Factory ecu and previous aftermarket had an engine immobilizer. I'd like to set something similar up in the g4x. I've checked the forums and the built in help file but didn't find any relevant information. Instead of adding a physical kill switch that a potential thief might look for I was thinking about repurposing one of the factory functions instead. I'm just not quite sure what the best way to do it is. I was thinking ideally i want to ecu to look at the input just long enough to start the motor and then completely ignore it while engine is running such that i don't bump it during vehicle operation and shut the motor off mid drive.I was wondering if Adam had any suggestions for this.

A/C was working before ecu install. pressing a/c button shows no effect on di3. I will go through the trouble shooting procedures.

di frequency appears to operate as expected. 0hz at idle 50-70 hz when i'm moving at a good clip.

Two unrelated questions for Adamw. Could take a look at my map and tell me if I have the ecu side properly setup for connecting to realdash? I'm struggling. 2nd question is while yv71 3 port 36hz.pclxou are in there could you look at my ac settings? It's a link 104x in a 2006 Usdm Sti. Pretty sure i have the dip switches properly configured. Can't get the ac to kick on. When clicking the hvac button light comes on. Thank you very much for all your support in this forum. Forgot to add I'm using a seeedstudio can adapter to connect.

Sorry that was a typo. My post was intended to read "fuel." Master Fuel specifically.

I had similar difficulties with my v10 Sti. I had to switch to traditional fuel mode and i had to add quite a bit of fun to get it to start. Don't forget to verify your engine timing with a light. Good luck!