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UK Lee

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Everything posted by UK Lee

  1. its a big engine in a little car and space is at a premium. There's chance a chance I could put it horizontal but the car is very low and it would leave the sensor vulnerable. Besides which the instructions say it needs to be a few degrees above horizontal to avoid condensation issues. So the only place i have - 1 meter back from the turbo is in the gap between the gearbox and the gearbox tunnel. I've been told that the 'best' place for it is just behind the turbo to avoid any 'lag' in the readings , and that nearly everyone (including OEM's) locate them this way. The instruction say that to protect the sensor from heat it should go a meter away . I'm just interested to hear what the 'ideal' is and really how much of an effect placement away from the ideal really has on its operation.
  2. So I've fitted my Link CAN-Lambda kit to my car and followed the link instructions by placing the sensor 1m away from the exhaust port. I've shared some pics of my install on a couple of forums , and straight away I'm getting stick for putting the sensor in the wrong place - I'm being told that for best performance , it should be right next to the turbo ? I'm wary of 'internet experts' so whats the deal ? Lee
  3. I need a bit of help confirming the correct order of wire colours to terminate in the plug for my TPS please. Engine is a Cosworth YB and im using the later (T25 small turbo) Escort Cosworth throttle body and Throttle Position Sensor. The TPS past number is V93H-F9B989-BA and is shared with the Scorpio 24V and some Mustangs too apparently. Ive found the following picture on the internet and i assume that VREF is the 5v reference voltage out of the ECU , but am confused by signal line & signal return Its says - "The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is a rotary potentiometer with a resistive element that varies linearly and in direct proportion to the throttle plate angle. The PCM applies a reference voltage (5V) and ground to the sensor and monitors the return voltage to determine throttle plate position. Not only the change but the rate of change can be detected." So please could someone confirm that my interpretation below is correct ? Signal return = AN VOLT 3 Yellow / Black Signal Line / TP = SENSR Ground Green VREF = SENSR +5v Red / Blue Many thanks Lee
  4. HI Folks , I'm just after a bit of guidance regarding the termination of the (shielded) trigger wires on my Monsoon G4x please. My Cosworth YB engine uses the Junior Power Timer type plugs on virtually all of its sensors and both the CPS & Phase sensors are the 2 pin type. My question is , what do I do with the bare 'shield' wire at the plug end ? There's continuity across all 4 wires ( 2 x bare + 2 x white) and they all go back to the single green 'shielded ground' wire in my Link A Loom (Pin 7 on the ECU). Should I join the bare shield wire to the white insulated wire at each plug terminal ? or just cut them short and ignore them ? Finally (as a sanity check) the ground wire should always go to socket B in my JPT plug (see pic below) Correct ? ...and its the same story for all my other sensor and injectors with the Junior power timer plugs on the harness - Ground -ve wire always to the right when looking into the plug ? Cheers Lee
  5. Nice one , thanks Adam . Kinda disappointing that Link don't bother to chuck in a couple of resistors worth just a few pence in a 'kit' costing hundreds of pounds when they're a requirement to get the kit to function. In any case , its easily sorted - thanks for the answers & advice . It's much appreciated
  6. Thanks very much adam , that's great. So I need to get a 120r 1/4watt resistor then ? I found these on Ebay- packs of 50 but they're only a couple of quid - would one of these do the trick ?
  7. It's the Link controller with a bosch sensor , I bought the kit the same time as the loom & ecu Sorry , also just noticed that I've posted this in the G4+ section , I'm using a Monsoon G4x if that makes any difference.
  8. Hello , I'm going to be using a Link Monsoon G4x to support a Sierra Cosworth YB engine in my Mk1 Escort. I'm just finishing off the completion of an 'all new' - built from scratch, body harness for the car and am now at the point where I can begin building the engine harness. In addition to my Link CAN Lambda controller , I'd like to add an OBD2 port in the car . I've read through the following diagrams / instructions but am left with some questions - I'm using the Link Type A loom , and my first question is regarding 'twisted pairs' . First , the basics -Why are they required to be twisted together ? does the wire gauge have any relevancy / effect on the performance ? What would happen if I didn't twist the wires together ? On my Type A loom , pins 28 and 29 are the CAN High / Low terminals . The wires are Orange / Green + Orange / Yellow , they're the same diameter and are not twisted together ( like all the other wires coming from the plug_- is it necessary for me to twist them together myself when making up my harness ? I intend to lay the harness out according to my sketch below ; 1) Is it ok to 'spur' off the CAN high / low wires to feed both the Lambda controller and the OBD2 port ? 2) Do I need to twist the CAN high / low wires together in my Type A loom - both before and after the spur for the OBD2 port ? 3) The Canbus wiring diagram states the need for a 120R resistor in some applications - do I need one ? where would it be placed in my sketch below ? 4) In the sketch below - do my circuits look ok and wired correctly ? should I change anything ? Many thanks for you help - i really appreciate it Lee
  9. Hi Guys , can i pick your brains please ? . I'm building a YB powered Mk1 Escort with a Link Monsoon ECU and am at the wiring stage. I'm using the throttle body & inlet from a later EECIV Small Turbo Escort YB and the EECIV ISCV has a really weird plug on it . I'm trying to make the engine harness and cant find a female plug to suit the connector on this particular idle valve. These idle valves are also particularly hard to source and as soon as you mention 'RS Cosworth' the prices rise dramatically I guess I could stick with the OEM idle valve and then solder a couple of wires to the terminals at one end at 'pot' the connector and then use a more common male / female plug to join it to my wiring loom - but there may be an alternative ! I've found an ISCV from a Mk6 Fiesta which 'physically' will bolt straight onto the throttle body (same gasket and hole spacing) and as an extra bonus - it uses the common EV1 / Junior power timer connector like my injectors and sensors . These valves are easily available and much cheaper than the cosworth one. Can i bolt it on & hook it up without any problems with my Link ECU ? In my (simple) mind Its just a 2 wire solenoid that operates a sprung piston valve to allow air to bypass from one port to the other isn't it ? Or is the idle valve an electronic control side of it - a bit cleverer than that ?, and i need to be wary of coil resistances or other internal differences between them ? Help !
  10. Sorry for delayed reply- but thanks gents , this is brilliant info from you both. Your help is very much appreciated - thanks again
  11. Thanks for the explanations chaps - its really helpful . The link i/o table specifically mentions that pins 15 & 16 are temp inputs for use with NTC Thermistor sensors and AN1-4 are Voltage - i didn't consider this before asking my question on the need for a resistor , again - thank you for the guidance. Oil Temp i bench tested the Oil temp gauge as per Adams instructions and I'm reading 12v with my multimeter at the sensor terminal . I feel that it seems to be more aggro than its worth. I'm going to dismiss the Oil temp feed to the ECU. Oil & Fuel pressure Oil & Fuel pressure inputs sound very much like they are worth having , so i want to pursue this. Both are 3 wire sensors (Black - ground / Red - 5v / White - Signal) . Duplicate sensors aren't practical in my installation so i'm going to leave the 5v feed to the sensors as coming from the gauges and spur off the white signal wire and connect these spurs to AN Volt 1 (p17) & AN Volt 2 (p22) . The question remains regarding what i do about the ground side for these 2 sensors ? I've never heard of Ground Offsets or Ground Looping - so would appreciate your help with this. Leaving the ground wire going to straight to the gauge would be the most simple option - especially if i don't need to spur off this and connect to Ground out on the ECU (pin 24) . Do you think this will be OK ? My intention is to keep the ECU harness completely separate from the main body harness , with just a single plug close to the ECU under my dash for any wires that need connecting from 'the outside'. The Oil & Fuel pressure sensor wires to their gauges will be in the body loom , but will pass very close to the Engine Ground point that i'll be using for the Link ECU . I could easily spur off the ground wire between sensor and gauge at this point and connect it to the same Engine Ground point - would this help negate the potential effects of Ground Offsets or Ground Looping ? Low Oil Pressure / Check Engine Warning Picking up on Kris's point regarding Oil warning lights. Currently my body loom diagrams use the std. Ford low oil pressure switch (single terminal pressure switch that goes to ground at around 3-5 psi) The warning lamp is fed by an ignition switched , fused , 12v supply. At such low pressure - it's not much of a warning , and by the time it lights up at just 5psi any engine damage is typically done. Can i use ECU pin 26 Aux Out (not currently assigned) to ground my low oil pressure warning light - using a programmable value in the ECU (say 20psi) instead of the factory 5 psi switch ? Will the existing 12v supply to the warning lamp be a problem ? Going a stage further - is there a way to combine both the low oil pressure and check engine warnings using the same lamp ? I'm thinking that the light could be permanently on for low oil pressure and flash on & off for a check engine warning ? To achieve this, would i connect both Pin 27 (check engine) and Pin 26 (low oil pressure) to the same warning lamp - or could the ECU be programmed to output a continuous ground for my pre programmed low oil pressure value and an intermittent ground in the case of a check engine warning via the same auxiliary output pin ? Again , many thanks for your help - its much appreciated Lee
  12. Thanks Adam - this is brilliant info ! - the support from this forum is amazing I did see the alternate wiring diagrams included in my box when I bought the wideband controller - but had no idea about potential voltage spikes etc . My apologies if my questions / assumptions seem a bit naive. Ok , so - onto v3 of my schematic , the earths are now configured properly and I've switched the 12v +ve feeds around so that one relay powers the boost solenoid, IACV, coils & Injectors , and the other relay powers the ecu and the can lambda controller only. Will this negate the need for a capacitor ? Now , questions regarding my sensor wiring . All of the engine management related circuits on the '89 Sierra Cosworth engine that I'm using are independent of the main chassis harness and go directly to the original Weber ECU on its own sub-loom (which makes the engine conversion reasonably simple) . Stuff like the Cam / Crank / AIT / TPS & Water Temp sensors are for the dedicated use of ECU only. My Monsoon X has built a built in MAP sensor , so I think I'm right in saying that these inputs are the minimum I need for my Link ECU to work correctly. However - I've installed a bunch of gauges in the cockpit of my '74 Mk1 Escort to display additional info . The Gauges are again from Speedhut , and are digital stepper motor driven analogue dials. They each come with their own calibrated (analogue ?) sensors which I've installed at the appropriate points. Specifically regarding 'additional' inputs to my new Link Monsoon - I now have access to Fuel Pressure , Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature . At the sensor end of the gauge harness - the pressure sensors have a 5v +ve supply from the gauge , a Ground back to the gauge & a Signal wire back to the gauge . The temp sensors have 12v +ve from the gauge and a Ground back to the gauge. Can i simply 'spur' off the signal wires from each sensor - and 'share' that sensors signal between the gauge and the AN Input pins of the ECU ? is it likely to do anything weird ? Do i need to also spur the gauge / sensor ground wires and feed them back to Pin 24 of the ECU ? I've added these ECU spurs to my existing Gauge / Engine schematic (I'm having to rewire the whole car from scratch) - as far as the ECU circuits are concerned , does this look OK or have it got it completely wrong ? Why do i need to add the 1k Ohm resistor to the oil temp circuit when i dont need one on the water temp circuit ? they're both 2 pin thermistor type sensors - is it because my oil temp gauge is fed by a 12v supply from the gauge and my water temp is supplied by a 5v feed from the ECU ? Is it worth the effort to get Fuel Pressure , Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature info to the link ECU ? Will it make significant use of this data ? Thanks again for all your advice - i find this stuff fascinating
  13. Thanks for your help gents - its much appreciated . My intention was to wire it up exactly according to me diagram (with the exception of some of the analogue sensors - but i'll come onto that later) . I intend to convert the Cosworth YB ignition from a Distributor based system to Coil on Plug - using 4 x Honda K20 Denso stick coils. I'll still be using the phase sensor in the original YB distributor body. I've re-jigged my schematic to now ground pins 25 & 34 to a common point on the engine. I've also re-jigged stick coils to have separate earths which will now crimp to a common ring terminal on the cylinder head. Adam - what do you mean by a 'noisy' power source for my Link Can-Lambda controller ? - are there better options for the 12v feed ? direct from an ignition fed live on my fusebox maybe ? Vaughan - regarding my tacho signal . I'm using a set of gauges from Speedhut in the USA . Their tacho instructions are attached below and they give several options for connecting the single yellow signal wire from their tacho to the car , but in summary : "Option 3 (coil on plug) - An individual coil is placed directly on top of each spark plug eliminating the spark plug wires. The signal wire, when hooked up to any coil, will pick up only 1 pulse per 2 revolutions or 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution (see fig 3). For this ignition the yellow wire from the tachometer will connect to the trigger wire on one of the coils Typically there will be 3 or 4 colored wires coming off of each coil. The trigger wire will be the wire that changes color from one coil to the next. Option 4 (tach output from ECU) - Some vehicles will have a tachometer output wire coming from the ECU. The yellow wire from our tachometer can receive signal from the ECU by following the diagram in fig 4. (4.7K resistor and shrink tubing are included with the gauge.) Note: Aftermarket ECU's will NOT need to follow fig 4. Simply connect the signal wire to the ECU output wire and set the pulse per rev accordingly." I took it from this , that i can connect it directly to Pin 21 on my Monsoon ECU as per option 4 ? Or would i be better off using their option 3 and splicing in to one of the coil signal wires (Pins 1 ,2,3 or 4) ? Lee 338_tachometer_instructions2021.pdf Ok thank you , i just googled monsoon quick start guide and thats the first result that came up. Thank you for the updated link
  14. It's in the Link Monsoon Quick start guide that i downloaded from here > http://linkecu.com/documentation/MonsoonQuickstartGuide.pdf It states " Ground + Ground (assuming 25 & 34 ?) Wire these seperately. Ground Typically one to engine, one to chassis" Lee
  15. Thanks Vaughan, I really appreciate you taking a look at this for me . A couple of questions- The Link I/O table I downloaded tells me to put one earth to chassis and the other to the engine ? What does WCU stand for ? Lee
  16. Hi Everyone , I'm very new to the world of engine management (being more used to contact breakers & condensers !) but am very enthusiastic ! . I've been lurking for a while but this is my first ever post. I'm building a Cosworth YB Turbo powered Ford Escort Mk1 and have bought a new Link Monsoon G4x to take care of the engine management. I'm also using a boost control solenoid and a Wideband lambda controller. I'm going to be making my own wiring harness using a Link Loom A as the basis. I figured the best place to start would be to fill in the I/O table and use a schematic for myself to follow. i couldn't find anything that i could copy during a google search ( lots of mazda rotary stuff) but nothing for a typical 4 cyl turbo motor. I also looked in the PC Link help files , and whilst theres some great detail in there - its all split up into individual sections and i couldn't find a total 'system' wiring diagram . So , I've created my own - and here it is . However - this is my first ever go at doing something like this , and i'm bound to have made some schoolboy errors . Could i ask for the benefit of your experience , and ask you to take a careful look at my schematic and let me know if Ive got anything wrong please ? I've followed the wiring colours of the Loom A as best i can , and i'm sure that most of my component symbols are innacurate - but the important thing is are my ECU pins connected to the right places ? I'd really appreciate any guidance. Lee Link Monsoon G4x ECU to Cosworth YB Wiring Schematic.pdf Link Monsoon G4x ECU to Cosworth YB wiring - header list.pdf
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