Ryley Coker

It fits on a 2014 Silverado. This is the part number 13507128

It is the GM sensor. Does you have to specify what sensor it is in the ecu?

Link G4X, I installed an ethanol sensor, ran power wire to a 12v switch, got a good ground, and put the signal wire to DI6. The ecu is reading as inactive. I have gone into DI6 and set it as the ethanol sensor, but it still reads inactive. I have also turned on and off the pull up resistor. Thoughts?

Does it matter if I don’t have the DCCD hooked up? I’ve never had it wired in.

It’s a 1993 Subaru Legacy sport it has the old wrx 5speed with 4.44 There’s a 2 piece speedo cable that comes out of the transmission into the cluster. there’s an abs sensor that will detect slip but I’m not sure if it detects wheel speed. the old EJ20G ecu that the car used to have would through a check engine light if the ecu could not detect speed from the transmission.

There’s really no more room to get anything else through the firewall for digital. I’ll see what he recommends.

Mechanical to cluster. And speed from the transmission. I’m on the dyno to test it.

Everything is working perfectly except.... launch control. The activation is at 4600 rpm, with the TPS at 75%. And the tuner and I were trying to get the launch control lockout to engage at 2mph. HOWEVER, when I try and connect the ecu to DI 4 for the ECU, it shows as inactive. I am running an older 5 speed with the 4.44. Am I missing something?

We are up and running. One of the grounding connections with just a tad loose.

Yes it is the Link CAN Lambda. When I get to the car tomorrow I’ll attach one.

Alright, the car runs, IAT works. The LAMDA is wired into the CAN H/L setup. The switch power and ground come from the old MAF wiring harness. I followed the directions on the setup. But it will not read with the ecu to pick up on the computer. It shows LAMBDA on channel 1 I believe, but thats it. Thoughts?

I’ll try that in a bit when I go for my first 50 miles

As for the prop gains it does not affect the idle up nor down. I had to shut it off but I have a speed density setup. Yes it is wired in to An Temp 2 Here is the tune with the IAT on. Its showing error with voltage high. But Its wired to the ground of the expansion plug and to the an temp 2. 5-9 tune 5.pclx

It seems to be running pretty well. Kinda smoky (rich) while driving but overall it’s pretty good. My last issue is the IAT sensor. I’ve ran it through the expansion loom with the ground. And I even got a new sensor just to check. But it either reads high/low voltage or 302 degrees.

I just copied the tables this time. And when I switch between the high and the low, it changes the idle from 1800 to a solid 650 5-9 tune 4 with copied tables.pclx

Yes I have direct spark with coil packs on there. Those got wired in with the jumper harness between the old and new ecu Alright I got the tables copied, now I am running lean and it doesnt want to idle at at. copied tables tune.pclx

The ecu harness has a jumper harness so that it converts it from the legacy one to the version 1/2 wrx. All the pins should match v1-2 wrx.

It is the link V1-2 ecu.

The IACV is the original 3 wire. I’m not sure where the output should go since I didn’t get wired in separately. Not sure how to adjust the clamp nor target rpms. Never been good with this part.

I has an Idle air control valve. With a 3 wire solenoid on top. Here is the tune I am currently running. 5-9 tune 2.pclx

Already, I’ve got the car running! 1993 Subaru Legacy 2.2 turbo with 1050x top feed conversion. I’m running into an issue where my idle speed is no lower than 1500rpm. I’ve checked the cable and it’s not pulling, TPS was re calibrated just in case. Thoughts anyone?

Alright, timing is on point. Swapped coil packs to new ones. Put new plugs in. And injectors. Just to eliminate everything. I adjusted the timing in the ECU to 10 since some 2.5 engines like to start there. But still no fire. I also noticed that there is air coming out of my throttle body, any thoughts as to that? All the marks lined up before I put the engine in. And they still line up now when I do it by hand.

Since I am using a Direct Spark utilizing the coil pack conversion, how do I hook a timing light up to that?

Alright, I have tried both on, and off, no dice. I have does a coil pack test and then arced plugs as well to double check that the coil pack spring is touching the plug. I also tossed some ether into the intake, but it would not fire. My firing order is correct. The coil pack locations are correct when I do the test. I just did a resistance test between the coil pack harness and the ECU and it was .06ohm.

My "Ignition Switch" is set to off, should it be on?