Adoom

I checked. It stays on when cranking. I was wrong about the radio being on that circuit. There is a separate ACC wire from the ign switch for the radio.

Thanks. I hadn't thought of that, I'll go check.

I have indeed changed to a solenoid idle valve. So that sounds like a "Yes". The ECU and injectors can share the same relay as the Indicators, heater, wipers, instruments and radio because it supplies power when the ignition switch is on....

I'm installing a link in a 1971 Triumph to run a 1uzfe. The original body wiring loom had a total of 3 fuses and only one relay, for the horn. The headlights had no fuse or relay, that poor little switch.... I have now upgraded it so it has a larger fusebox and some relays to protect the switches: Start signal relay. Goes to starter solenoid. This can be the "Start signal" for the Link too? Live with ignition relay. Indicators, heater, wipers, instruments, radio. headlights high beam relay. headlights low beam relay. Horn relay. I'll have some more relays for the engine: fuel pump relay Ignition Coils relay Engine fan relay So finally on to my question.... Do I need a separate "Main relay" (Like in the "power supplies" section of the Link Help), or can I use the existing "Live with ignition relay" that supplies the indicators/heater/wipers/instruments/radio?

So I'm messing around with the instrument cluster from a 2003 Honda CB900. Everything is mounted to a single circuit board, but the stepper motor(?) drives, with gauge faces attached, actually unplug from the main board, so they will be a piece of cake to remote mount into my old smiths gauge housings. It even has a small LCD ODO/trip meter that can be easily desoldered for remote mounting. I was thinking I'd just hide the circuit board in a flat case with some cables coming out to the original 70's gauges. I've got my G4 Xtreme successfully driving the speedo on Aux 1 and the water temp gauge on Aux 6. But I can't get the tacho, on Aux 2, to move. The factory wiring diagram shows the tacho signal wiring going only to the ecu, not to a coil, so I assume this means it's a low-level tacho. Any suggestions?

@Vaughan Cool. Got it working. Thanks

I want to try this, to drive a temp gauge using an aux out. I think there is supposed to be a table of some kind for the GP PWM to do duty cycle stuff. That's where I get lost. I've worked out how to edit a table, but I've got no idea what the axis should be or what kind of numbers should go in the fields. Could you post a picture of an example table where ECT is used to control duty cycle for a temp gauge?

Oh, never mind, I realised that Aux 5 can only do 300Hz, but Aux 1 can do 4000. So I'm sorted.

So I've borrowed the speedo off my Honda motorbike. I have it connected to Aux 5 and set it to Test (PWM). The needle does move. If I set it to 100Hz I get 10KPH, 200Hz 20KPH, 300Hz 30KPH. But then I've maxed out the Hertz so the needle doesn't move any further. Any idea? Or does this speedo really need up to 2600Hz for a full sweep?

Okay, I'll see if I can find something suitable at the wreckers. I have seen your post with that circuit.

So has anyone got any suggestions for OEM speedos that just work, directly with an Aux out? Surely they exist...

I forgot to mention that I am in NZ, so shipping, exchange rate and tax make those nice looking aftermarket speedos pretty damn expensive. I'm also cheap, but I would actually enjoy trying to cobble together a hybrid speedo. That hall effect sensor could be an alternative option if the ABS sensor turns out to be impossible. But the ABS sensor sure does look tidy and compact and it already has a mounting hole.

I have a G4 Red Extreme All this stuff is in a 1971 Triumph 2000. I'd like to use the ABS sensor on the output flange on a Nissan 350Z diff to provide my speed signal. I found a post that said the number of teeth means the frequency will be too high for the digital input. Could I solve that by removing some of the teeth (but still keeping them evenly spaced of course)? I also assume that there are cars with speedos that can be driven directly by the link? Are any of them common models, where I could just go to the local wreckers to find one? I want to take the guts out of one of these speedos and make it fit into a 70's Smiths gauge. I have done this before, but I used a tacho, so there is no ODO and I'd prefer to have an ODO for this one.