96Evo4.5
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Posts posted by 96Evo4.5
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there is no log, as the car does not run atm, due to the harsh over fueling environment. The tune is the same as the last one that i shared via cloud storage link, the streams position is just set to "none". I need to buy a new CAN link harness (ecu end) because of the constant pulling it out of the ecu and my pushing probes into the end, its become misshaped and damaged. My next test is im going to get a new CAN plug and then im going to put it into the CAN2 input on the ecu, see if the ecu will see that instead. Maybe there is something wrong with the Link CAN1 input on the ecu board. im rather underwhelmed with the CAN input, i read all these great things, but in the end mine requires much work to actually work.
But for now Im just going to hook it up to the Analog input as thats easier, and more likely to work. Could you please direct me how to hook up via analog, and what i need to achieve this?
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On 4/12/2021 at 2:11 PM, Adamw said:
Vaughan said to change it to none. It should look like below.
So I tried this last adjustment and still nothing. Im thinking of giving up on the CAN setup for right now, my time to figure this issue is quickly whittling away. How do I setup up to the Analog inputs on the Link? what do I need now for a harness and such to try and communicate with the Link via Analog.
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Oh okay, i'll make that adjustment. hopefully this will fix my issue. when he said none i thought he meant like zero lol
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https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgPhKN0QVZUGiFABewD2z-Oq6YMg?e=uuLH9e <----Tune link
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgPhKN0QVZUGiFEljHJR87Sq6nWU?e=UzRVRj <----Older data log link this will be probably pretty useless because it wasnt taken with the current adjustments done. I figured id share it just it case
I had adjusted the tune as per what Vaughan had suggested, (change the ID from 1 to 0) the current tune reflects that.
I dont use 1 drive much, so I hope the link works properly.
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i cant upload either the tune or the data log, it says the file size was to large and was skipped. the tune is 434 kb and the data log is like 700kb
anyways, the tune was loaded previously i do believe, i havent changed it, it was listed as "Devins tune" I cant run the car currently as the ecu has been disconnected and i was advised by my tuner to not start the car any further, as the over fueling could damage the rings. But i did get a small log from before i dont know if that would help or not,
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On 4/3/2021 at 11:45 PM, Electredge said:
you can use an ohm meter to test the injectors, if they are high impedance and you still have the stock resistor ballast in place its not going to control the injectors properly.
They are low Z injectors. I just found out from my tuner that these injectors are horrendously notorious for being difficult to setup for proper idle. So I may have to just get him to set them up for me.
Its only money right lol.
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On 4/7/2021 at 7:44 PM, Adamw said:
What Im getting at is you need to do the continuity test from end to end. Not each individual cable/extension/adapter seperately. should be testing from the what plug on the ecu to whatever the AEM device connects to at the other end.
I tested from the white plug on the ecu side to the white plug on the wideband controller, it came back fine. 0. So I dont know whats going on why my ecu isn't reading the CAN lambda.
Is there any other setting inside the aem controller that I need to change other then setting the CAN to ID1?
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I havent tested the plug at the aem gauge yet. That is my next step. But im gona go on a limb and say its likely okay.
Yes I have some white wire I needed to add in to get the length I needed to reach the ecu. But I checked which aem wires I connected to and they are the correct wires.
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On 4/4/2021 at 3:19 PM, Adamw said:
Your JST plug is the same as the one I showed in the photo. Only the white and green wires are relevant.
Leave your extension cable plugged in to the NZEFI cable and test from DTM plug at the lambda end of it to the JST plug at the ecu end.
So I tested both wires for continuity, from the ecu plug to the terminated plug, it was fine, I ran back and depinned the CAN L & CAN H wires from the LAMBDA harness and ran them straight into the terminated ecu harness. (Picture for example) i got nothing, didn't work no signal. I double checked my wires i was using from the lambda were correct and they were correct.
I even switched the Can L and Can H wires around to see if perhaps I had wired them backwards, still nothing. I have the Green and black and white and black wires being used for the CAN.
Does this apply to my situation?
"Bus Termination All AEMnet/CAN networks must be terminated to have an equivalent of approximately 60 Ohms of resistance. Generally, this means a 120 Ohm resistor connected in parallel to AEMnet+/AEMnet- (or CANH/CANL) at both physical ends of the bus run. The X-Series controller does not have any internal termination and is intended to be connected to a pre-existing, properly terminated network. Please refer to the Bosch CAN2.0B specification for further detail."
because i havent wired in any resistors, i wasnt aware that they were needed.
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20 hours ago, Adamw said:
Ok, set the multimeter to the lowest ohms range it has (often 200ohm), or if it is an autoranging meter then just set it to ohms.
Unplug the CAN cable from the ecu and from the Lambda. Hold one multimeter probe onto pin 4 on the DTM connector (numbers are on the back near the rubber seal) and the other probe on the centre pin (white wire) on the white JST plug at the ecu end of the cable. If you have continuity your meter should read near 0 ohms (say less than 1ohm). If there is no connection between these pins it will display something like "OL".
Also check for continuity from DTM pin 3 to the green wire in the JST connector. Also confirm the green wire is on the correct side of the white wire as pic below.
So I got the ecu out today, I dont have a plug that looks like that, this is what it looks like, please let me know if this is the issue.
https://www.nzefi.com/product/nzefi-link-g4-g4-plug-ecu-can-cable/
This is a link to the cable I purchased.
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6 hours ago, Electredge said:
what is the injector PW at idle? actual and effective
I'm not sure, last I looked it said 2.434 for actual. i could load up my short log if you think that might shed some light?
1 hour ago, Adamw said:Whats the resistance of those injectors? Do you still have the ballast resistor in place? Does it not get leaner if you make the value in the fuel table smaller?
They are high Z as far as im aware, thats what they were listed as when I bought them, off an evo 8, and yes I still have the stock resistor ballasts in place. I have my master fuel set to 4ms and its still rich, like 12:8:1 but that is much leaner from previous when it was nearing 8:1
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10 hours ago, Electredge said:
what rpm are you idling at? with 1450's you might not be able to idle at 14.7... not sure where the minimum is on those injectors but you need to attach a log of idle if you want help.
I would of done that already however i didn't, cause I'm having issues with my CAN sensor being read by the ecu, so I could give you a log but you couldn't see afr. It wants to idle at 900rpm but just stalls, when I apply 4% throttle its at like 1200rpm or so? And it sounds okay, its just rich beyond its wildest dreams.
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7 hours ago, Adamw said:
Is you CAN cable definitely plugged in to CAN1 port?
Assuming it is then the other possibility that springs to mind is I have seen one or two of those NZEFI CAN cables pinned wrong in the past.
Do you have a multimeter so we can check continuity end to end across the correct pins of that cable?
I will double check it plug position today at some point, I do have a multimeter, but I've never used it for anything other then checking voltage lol, so I'm not actually sure what settings id need to test for continuity.
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Id just like to start by saying thanks for the support here so far,
Anyways, Ive got 1450cc FIC blueMax injectors. (of which im having a hard time finding any info on) I got them used and they never came with the data sheet. Ive tried numerous different dead time setting, and ive had a friend of mine who knows alot more about tuning then i do, look over the fueling and adjust for me.
However I cannot get my car to idle anywhere even close to stoich, even with the master set to 4ms Im still running around 12.6:1 AFR. my fuel pressure is even lower then what stock would be, it runs about 40psi with a Aeromotive 340lph pump.
Im hoping to get some bright ideas, as i dont even feel safe to idle a brand new engine with that rich of afr. It doesnt idle without the throttle pressed about 4% it just stalls.
This is the tune that my friend helped me with.
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On 3/29/2021 at 5:11 PM, Adamw said:
ID needs to be set to extended.
I did that today, as well as double checked the ID setting in the gauge, and double checked my plug wiring, it all seems good, but it still is not reading my AEM wide band, is there anything else with the install that i should have done or missed? I assumed it was pretty straight forward. I used the AEMnet+ and AEMnet - to the CAN L and CAN H inputs. This seems like alot of headache over just running analog.
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36 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
Did you set the gauge ID to 1?
indeed i did, that was the first thing i did, before i started trying to set it up in PCLink I double checked, just to be safe
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tried that as well still not reading, Id like to add that i also followed the instructions from the AEM Uego for AEMnet setup inside the gauge. Any further thoughts?
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11 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
Set your Lambda 1 input to Link CAN, you would only have it set to CAN An 1 if your custom stream was setup with CAN An 1 as it's parameter but it is setup to receive Lambda 1.
I did that but im still not getting a feed to my CAN wideband gauge in PCLink, any other thoughts? I added the changes to my tune here.
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18 minutes ago, Adamw said:
But your original screen shot that had the min clamp warning was using the modelled fuel settings which would need a completely different fuel table. Your next screenshot shows you have changed back to traditional and it has the minimum set to zero so you would no longer get that warning.
If you are going to stick with traditional mode then set the deadtimes correctly to the manufacturers data and adjust the master fuel to get it roughly close then adjust your fuel table values from there.
Yeah what i did was loaded the preloaded base map again, I was trying to see the difference in the latency values i put in from what was loaded in stock, so Im gona just try and stay with the traditional scaling now, Im not gona try starting the car again until i get the wideband issues sorted out.
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okay my bad lol, im a noob at this ive been trying to get my friend who is a Link dealer to help me with this as well, however he is very busy. Hopefully i did this correctly
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2 minutes ago, Adamw said:
It is used to prevent a PW being commanded that would result in the injector operating in its non-linear region. You need to look at the injector data and make a decision based on how consistant your Idle AFR is at short PW's. Set it to zero if you dont understand how it works.
Your deadtimes look very wrong, I would expect values more around 1ms at 14V.
Your original screenshot was using modelled mode. It now looks like you have loaded the base map in? What is the question? What are you trying to do?
Im trying to make it so the ecu stops needing to clamp the pw values, giving me that error code. from the looks of it, your settings are .040ms i have mine set to 0.00ms, I just dont understand why its still clamping the values. I just want to know what i need to set this up properly. Or at least close enough that i can run the car for the break in.
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I thought id add these as well, It looks like it should be reading my wideband, Im sure im just missing something or ive put the wrong value in somewhere.
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This is what i see, should i change the master fuel to get a better afr? I will add the current setup for target afr, it would explain why its so rich current
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Oh okay, is there a suggested PW to set it at?
Can lambda input
in G4x
Posted
you may be right, I'll talk to my tuner to see if he will need extra time to diagnose this issue. He was trying to suggest that i do that to take one less thing off his list of things that need to get done is a fairly tight time schedule. However it seems as tho i can not get this issue sorted myself.