Turbo.Tim

Thanks Adam. I went back and looked at the pictures from when I installed the car and the cam gears look like they were adjusted as stated above. So I don't suspect they shifted. So I am back to probably too much timing at peak torque. I'm going to send out my injectors to ensure that they are flowing correctly because I find it odd that only spark plug 4 melted

It looks like the adjustable cam gear skipped on me for both the exhaust and intake.

Thanks everyone. I wanted to ensure it was not something mechanical before I invest money to rebuild it just to run into the same issue. Adam do you have a starting point for a timing map for a 4g64? .5 timing seems extremely low. Is yours stock bottom? I will get the knock configured before starting tuning again. I mistakenly thought he was going to tune that first. I told him the knock was disabled and needed tuning.

AFR did not drop and car did not appear to lean out. I do have an external aeromotive FPR. I was going to install a FP guage and log it but didnt have time before the dyno. I was hoping to have it done before the first track day. We were only around 80% duty cycle. I could probably use a bigger pump.

Thanks for the response. The motor was built by Magnus. Marco fully assembled and timed the motor personally. This was a 4g64 block with a 4g64 head gasket and timing belt. Head Magnus 4G63 Cam Gears Manley Stainless Intake/Exhaust Valves Kiggly Racing springs Kelford 272 Cams Kiggly HLA Oil Pressure Regulator Magnus 4g63 Pistons Manley Turbo Tuff 156 mm Rods Magnus 92 mm crank Magnus Head Studs ARP Main Studs HKS head gasket Balance shaft elimination kit I didnt film the one that let go but this was the run before it. I am planning to pull the head to get an idea of the damage. Hopefully the head is ok and the block just needs a bot of clean up. No windows this time. https://photos.app.goo.gl/YCLRLNTTt2wSFbMdA

This was a fully built motor with forged internals running on pump gas. The car made 489 on a dynojet. On the run prior to this one of the couplers blew off. Not sure if could cause it to lean out. I was using NGK BRP8ES plugs gapped at .026 on stock coils. Could I have had spark blow out from not tight enough gap?

2003 Mitsubishi Evo 8. 2.2 stroker motor with only 1000 km on the motor. ID 1000, 255 pump, fp red. Took it to the dyno and the motor let go and there is no compression in 3/4. One of the pictures are the top of the piston in 4. I am logging AFR but it is off by .2. So 11.6 was 11.4 on my guage. Is there any way to determine what might have happened? Evo_Log.llg Evo8.pclr

Sorry looking for clarification. I have an 8 and I am trying to configure knock with the oem sensor. Should it be 13kHz or 6kHz? According to the help file Evo 6 and on is 13. I assume Mitsubishi 4g63 aftermarket is with a donut style bosch sensor similar to an x?

Thanks Adam. You are a wizard. It only wanted 2% throttle for idle but it is no longer hunting. I assume i will have to play with cold start later. I have turned on ignition idle and turned it to a 2d table as per the help file. Does this look better? I still have not driven it yet. I will get a log once i have the opportunity to take it out. ethrottle.6.pclr

i started up the car today and I have an isolating idle. This was happening occasionally previously. I assumed it was a bad idle control valve which is what motivated me to do the DBW conversion. It did not happen all the time. Maybe 1 in 10 drives. But it would not go away after warm up. What am i missing? Ethrottle.3.pclr ethrottle start.llg

Sorry Adam. I have made the change you recommended enabled all logging and uploaded another map. Is this a good starting point? Is it safe to drive?. Log 2022-07-3 9;39;18 am.llg Ethrottle.3.pclr

Hello, I am trying to set up Drive by wire on my Evo 8. I have attached a log along with the map. I am not sure it is configured correctly. While testing it will follow the AP input then it just starts flapping open and closed really quickly and erratic. I am using Bosch throttle body with Evo x pedal. As soon as I add the gain the TB starts to make a humming/buzzing sound. I am not sure if that is normal or i have some of the wires crossed. ethrottle.llg Ethrottle.pclr

Thank you. I Have the Throttle body installed and its working proper. I was able to calibrate it successfully I ran into an interesting problem with the pedal. On the actual plug they have white/green as Pin 6 and Black/yellow as pin 1. So it says 6-1 from left to right on the plug but the service manual has them labelled in the opposite direction. From the service manual. Am i reading it wrong? Or is it somehow stamped wrong on the plug?

Adam, I have wired it all up using the provided e-throttle lume and removed the AFR guage to keep it consistent for now. I am confused on this part: E-Throttle Relay - Ground side of a isolating relay that disconnects power to the Aux 9/10 power supply pin - Connect to any available Auxiliary Output, Aux -Ign or Aux -Inj channel. Do not assign this to a Virtual Aux channel. Also I can not find Aux 10.

Thank you Adam. The Bosch throttle body also has 6 wires. Is this correct? 1. Motor (-) = Aux 10 2. TPS (-) = Ground 3. TPS 5v = 5v power 4. Motor + = Aux 9 4/6 Empty?